Carb or ignition?

[Ironangel]

I'm just here for the beer...Somebody say home brew?

[Marty68]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

I'm just here for the beer...Somebody say home brew?

The american pale ale is in the fermenter. Keg clean and pressurised.
The power from the coil comes right from the ignition switch to a terminal block energising gps speedo and tach light. Then over to the coil. 12v all the time.. I have yet to open distributor.
Last time I played with points was 1984. In a junk bug.
I guess I will learn soon.
Somehow I need to find out if this coil is ok with 12v or do i need to replace or add a ballast resistor.
Marty

[Marty68]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

I've seen plenty of old distributors with the mechanical advace all frozen up. You should be able to twist the rotor and have it snap right back. If it doesn't, you can usually remove the whole distributor from the vehicle and spray some WD40 or whatever into the shaft where the advance connects to it and slowly free it up by hand.

The vac advance DOES work I could see it advance while setting timing last rall.

[Marty68]

Today I plan on removing carb fuel filter. Setting float level..
Welding exhaust hanger back on..
Then find points condenser and ponder.
If I break it worse. Can I recover...

[vince1]

I seem to remember that the Delco coils that want a resistor measure about 2 ohms across the terminals. The Prestolite coil I had on my Canadian built Rambler measured 4 ohms and did not use a resistor. This is where I got into trouble by putting in a different engine built in the US that had the Delco distributer and coil on it and frying the coil soon after. An interesting note on the Petronix coils is that they are 0.6 ohm but take the full 12-14 volts.

[tdangle]

If this is any help, my 70 in stock condition had a resistance wire from the bulk head connector to the + terminal on the coil. Also attached to the + terminal was a yellow wire from the starter. What that did was on cranking the yellow wire had full 12 volts to go to the coil to help starting. after the engine was running the coil only got power thru the resistance wire. the - side of the coil went to the points. There was no resistor across the coil.

[Marty68]

Originally Posted by tdangle

If this is any help, my 70 in stock condition had a resistance wire from the bulk head connector to the + terminal on the coil. Also attached to the + terminal was a yellow wire from the starter. What that did was on cranking the yellow wire had full 12 volts to go to the coil to help starting. after the engine was running the coil only got power thru the resistance wire. the - side of the coil went to the points. There was no resistor across the coil.

There is NO wire from distributor to starter. Just 12V + straight from ignition switch.

[Marty68]

the coil is marked "12volt no need for resistance wire..."
I replaced the condenser. I am unable to satisfactorily (in my mind) see the points.
I had carb off I believe float is set correctly.
I will next rig a fuel pressure gauge up. I may not be getting enough fuel. under a normal cruise condition at 2400 rpm it is fine but under full throttle acceleration it is not....
maybe just for piece of mind change fuel filter


I AM mechanically inclined however I AN NOT a mechanic.

[WorkinLonghorn]

Fuel filter would be the very first thing to check under these circumstances. How hard is it to change out? But don't listen to me.

[geezer#99]

Your coil might be happy with 12v but your points aren’t!

[Marty68]

Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn

Fuel filter would be the very first thing to check under these circumstances. How hard is it to change out? But don't listen to me.

Fuel filter brand new . The one at carb looks new yet I sprayed it thoroughly with carb cleaner

[vince1]

How about the one in the tank? Blowing back with some low pressure air might dislodge something, or is this a bad idea?

[Marty68]

Originally Posted by vince1

How about the one in the tank? Blowing back with some low pressure air might dislodge something, or is this a bad idea?

Tsnk is brand new. Under bed.

[vince1]

No problem with the venting?

[Marty68]

I acquired aftermarket small cap hei. A vintage edelbrock manifold and a couple carbs. The hei requires a coil wire I dont have.,,, small both ends.


So I put new points new condenser in old dis. And te installed ... runs great!!..
Points must have been "floating" I may get another set install and Gap them to be carried as spare.
I am learning.

The manifold I accuired I bead blasted it epoxy primer color and clear. Hard to tell the difference between painted and bare carb flange.

Now my dilemma is... should I leave well enough alone? Or install manifold? Edelbrock told me the 1405 AND 1406 are both too big for a 283.. will reduce throttle response and increase fuel consumption.

Would I see any improvements other than looks by using manifold and an adapter to use 2bbl?

With mani on I could then try the 4bbl carbs..
Thoughts opinions?

[AcampoDave]

I use a 1404 (500 cfm) on my 283. I had to lean it out 2 stages in the cruise mode for optimum city driving because they only come jetted for perfomance/dual quad applications. I also had to add a 1/2 inch 4 hole phenolic spacer to ease heat soak. I think it works beautifully on my mildly built 283, but I'd say if your 283 is all stock and your existing components will work well, you might just consider leaving it alone. The original heads and cam may not be able to really move enough air to maximize the benefits of a larger carb anyhow, and the factory 283 manifolds have smaller runners than the Eddy does so as to increase air velocity which adds low end pep to the small motor.

[cadillac_al]

I was waiting to see how it ran with new points before trying to diagnose anything. I could barely get 2 years out of them back in the day. It sounds like a happy engine now.

[Marty68]

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

I was waiting to see how it ran with new points before trying to diagnose anything. I could barely get 2 years out of them back in the day. It sounds like a happy engine now.

Runs great... maybe a slight "miss" at 4k... 4k won't be seen often... a different engine is not affordable or desired.

I as most car guys cant leave well enough alone. I have accuired a c3bx edelbrock intake. As 1405 and 1406 carb. Trading one for a 500 cfm eddy..

I have never swapped carbs or intakes. I will fail or succeed this week. When I have dist out I will set up and gap a spare set of points.

[geezer#99]

What type of points are you using and what are you using to set the gap?