R and R front suspension - where to start???

[hpcgmc]

I've pulled the motor on my 67 GMC and am about to start rebuilding the front end. My plan is to keep the original subframe, replace all suspension rubber and then add a 6 lug disc brake setup, probably from Classic Heartbeat, since I like dealing with Wes. While I'm at it, I'll put in a power steering unit and sway bar. I'm also degreasing and painting the suspension, frame rails and engine bay.

I have no idea where to start on the front suspension rebuild (a arm rubber, tie rods, ball joints, etc). Should I remove the crossmember to replace the suspension parts? This will make it easier to clean and paint, but I don't want to create more work for myself. Will I need to have parts pressed in? (I dont have a press).

Thanks for any input.

[MusicMan70]

If you are going to do all those things then take off the front end in one piece. I had my local mechanic press rebuild the A-arms with the new parts I had bought. Rest I did with help from this Great Forum!

[hounddogs!]

I would definitely pull the crossmember. Since the motor's already out, it's not even a question in my mind.

I did this on my '68 Chevy 3/4T last summer with the motor in place. Note the wooden beam and strap arrangement holding up the front end of the motor.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=587600

Set the truck up pretty high on jack stands that are just forward of the firewall. (you want the bumper far enough up in the air to clear everything you're going to roll out later) IIRC, there are 16 bolts to remove, but two of those tie the motor mounts to the crossmember. I would think that you could leave those in place. That leaves four sets of three bolts between the frame and the crossmember, plus the steering, drag link, and brakes to cut loose.

All the fasteners that had to come out from the bottom came out first. Just plan so that the last six bolts that you take out are the horizontal ones tying the x-member to the frame. A second set of jack stands would be good as you're dropping the x-member onto the floor jack, but not necessary. I just made sure that I wasn't doing anything except reaching in through the wheel well.

The lower ball joints will need encouragement coming out and going in both. With the crossmember out of the vehicle, it's easy to remove the a-arm and use an arbor press for this. The arbor press at your local shop is a much better tool than the on-car kit that you borrow from O'Reilly's. Uppers will be a matter of cutting the rivets and bolting the new ones in.

I used all Moog wear items from RockAuto.

[hpcgmc]

Thanks for the great info and link with pics Hounddogs! Are there any rivets to cut to remove the crossmember, or are they all bolts? I hope my refreshed crossmember looks as good as yours when I install it.

Musicman - I don't have the room, manpower or willpower to remove the complete front end, but it would make things easy.

[hounddogs!]

The only rivets I cut were on the upper ball joints. I wouldn't think that would change as you go Chevy vs. GMC or V8 vs I6.

[Tom Vogel]

OK.. I would personaly not remove the cross member, unless there is some good reason. You should ask Wes what you need to do this the easiest way. Give him a call, he has done this many times.

[hpcgmc]

I pulled the crossmember this afternoon. Much easier then I expected. A friend will take it to his shop this week and hit it with a commercial power washer, then I'll pull it all apart to paint, rebuild and add disc brakes. I hope I can remember how to put this all back together! A tip for others doing this for the first time, if you leave the brake drums on, you can roll it around your shop on the brake drums.