1987 V2500/3500 12v nv4500 build

[Dieselwrencher]

I put a 12v and 47rh in a 88 V2500 and I made a bell crank sort of because the GM and Chrysler valve body gear motion is back wards from each other if I remember correctly.

[c10hevy]

My Dad flew in a few days ago and we pulled the engine and installed a new oil pan and rear main seal/housing gasket as well as the trans without issue.
The factory crossmember was able to be reused by using the rear mounting hole in the frame for the front hole in the crossmember and drilling out the rear.

We are having an issue seating the AA adapter for the 47RE to NP205. It goes almost all the way in but there is about a 3/8" gap that we just cannot close. We feel like weve tried everything. Transmission jack and/or cherry picker to support the transfer case. Even a couple hits with a sledge on a 2x4 to drive it home and still nothing.
It seems that the inner lip on the front face of the adapter is hanging up so it cant slide into the transmission overdrive unit.

Sorry for the massive picture.


Does anyone know if were overlooking something stupid or am doing it wrong? or do we have to pull it and machine the lip to fit inside the transmission?

[c10hevy]

So...after talking with Advanced Adapters, the ORD is the same as their factory replacement Dodge adapter (even though it has a different part number).. so the ORD description of “…everything you need to adapt your 23 spline 47RE, 727, etc to a small bearing figure 8 NP205 case!” is still technically true, but the 47RE output shaft and coupler must be cut approximately 0.5".
This makes the output shaft flush with the rear flange of the transmission, making it the same stick out length as the 518 trans that the Dodge NP205 came stock on.

Since I have a stock dodge adapter, I will be returning the ORD piece and making the cuts.
I bought a fancy new Dewalt portable band saw and already cut the coupler down 0.5".
I was thinking I could do the same on the trans output shaft without pulling it out of the truck, but Im now having second thoughts.

I was planning on stuffing the rear of the trans with shop rags, taping it closed, and use the rear flange of the trans as a fence for the blade....but that's seeming more and more sketchy the more I think about it.

Then I was thinking about pulling the overdrive housing and cutting it still in the OD housing, but how would I stop the shaft from spinning? use the coupler as a lock and clamp that?

Or do I need to do it the hard way and remove the output shaft from the OD housing to cut it correctly?

[c10hevy]

Also, because I already have the stock PCM and harness from a 98.0 12V Im thinking that I will use this and a potentiometer instead of the TPS to adjust the OD shift point.
Reading through the FSM, there are still a good amount of inputs to the shift determination logic that could be tuned by something like the anteater controller.

Do you think the stock PCM would be good enough for my engine/trans combo/driving expectations or should I just bit the bullet and get the anteater right out the gate?

[c10hevy]

Ive also decided to part with my Wabco air compressor because of fitment issues. Ill be going with an extreme outback or Viair setup, so ill post the complete assembly in the classifieds if anyone is interested.

[Dieselwrencher]

I'm not a fan of the 47re shifting from the stock pcm so I say trash can it. The 2 trucks I've ridden in with an anteater were very nice though. I still recommend them.

[c10hevy]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I'm not a fan of the 47re shifting from the stock pcm so I say trash can it. The 2 trucks I've ridden in with an anteater were very nice though. I still recommend them.

Ive heard this many times and I think Ill finally take this advice and bite the bullet.

Unsurprisingly, After cutting 1/2" off the 47RE transmission output shaft as well as the 23 spline coupler, and using the stock Dodge transfer case adapter, everything went together easy as pie!


I am a bit nervous about this 250lb cast iron T-case hanging off the back of an aluminum transmission, so Ive been looking into mounting options.
This case does not have the 2 threaded holes in the passenger side ear, so Im thinking about using something along the lines of this.
https://www.beyondprecise.com/produc...ssmember-plate

Or do you guys think it would be better to just drill and tap that ear and use the stock style Chevy mount?

[v30crewcab]

my 205 has been hanging off my aluminum tail housing on the nv4500 happily for 10+years. that bracket may end up holding it so well it breaks the trans from not moving with the trans.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by v30crewcab

my 205 has been hanging off my aluminum tail housing on the nv4500 happily for 10+years. that bracket may end up holding it so well it breaks the trans from not moving with the trans.

Same here. I figured if the 1st gen dodges had nothing on them and as many 47rh's and 518's I've had and worked on over the years, if those weren't cracked or broken, I'd leave it alone. I figured with the torque that mount on the t case would be a pivot point and I'd for sure break something. My truck has a 47rh in it and a NP205. The 47re OD units are shorter so theoretically should be as strong or stronger. Also, the 241dhd cases these had on them aren't light either. And those had no extra bracing on them in the dodges either.

[dropd80s]

Originally Posted by c10hevy

Ive also decided to part with my Wabco air compressor because of fitment issues. Ill be going with an extreme outback or Viair setup, so ill post the complete assembly in the classifieds if anyone is interested.

I may be interested in the compressor, if you still have it. Ill shoot you a PM.

[c10hevy]

Sorry my man, I just shipped it out to its new owner this morning

[c10hevy]

So....I moved again. This time in the right direction, West. I was able to find a huge promotion (thanks to the great resignation I think) in Sandpoint ID that met all my salary/benefits requests with the first offer. Not to mention, brought me back to the northwest and dont have to deal with all the John Deere strike Bull**** thats still going on; while I am 100% am on the side of the UAW 838 employees! Similar issues are partly to blame why I was looking to leave Deere before all this kicked off.
But was able to secure a nice 3 Acre property with 2 large machine sheds.


Before I moved in, I was staying at my late grandmothers house in Kalispell MT and her neighbor had this cherry shortbed.

I never caught him to talk about it because I was only there for a few days, but let me tell you...it was VERY nice!


About a month later my truck was delivered and I havent worked on it one bit. Its been rough having to ride free dirtbikes for "work" but ORD suspension is next as well as installation of a Rob Bonney intercooler mount into my core support.

I know Ive asked about exhaust before, but my aluminized pipes already rusted pretty terribly just sitting in my Iowa garage, so im going to spend the money to get a stainless system. Do you think it would be best to get a 1st gen cummins 4"HX40 downpipe and then fabricate the rest of the piping? Or frankenstein a 1st gen and a 2nd gen system?

EDIT: Sorry, I dont know how to make the photos smaller after I post to imgur, ill try to remember for posting next time.

[Dieselwrencher]

Congrats on your move! That's weird the galvanized stuff was rusting setting in your garage. I've had projects set outside and the exhaust be out in the open and the stuff not rust. Not until you drive the vehicle on the brine covered roads.

Money wise I'd just get the HX40 down pipe 1st gen kit and modify that down pipe if need be. Sometimes it can be more expensive to buy the 2nd gen dp and a 1st gen kit. The last 2 chevy trucks I did I welded a v band on the hx35w outlet and made the down pipe. I've got one more to do this month and I'm not sure which way I'll do this one yet.

[c10hevy]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Congrats on your move! That's weird the galvanized stuff was rusting setting in your garage. I've had projects set outside and the exhaust be out in the open and the stuff not rust. Not until you drive the vehicle on the brine covered roads.

Money wise I'd just get the HX40 down pipe 1st gen kit and modify that down pipe if need be. Sometimes it can be more expensive to buy the 2nd gen dp and a 1st gen kit. The last 2 chevy trucks I did I welded a v band on the hx35w outlet and made the down pipe. I've got one more to do this month and I'm not sure which way I'll do this one yet.

I agree, I dont understand either, I drove with that exhaust for about 150 miles and then it's been sitting for over a year in the garage.
Its an MRBP exhaust, Ive heard only good things, but man Im not impressed.