Disc Brake Conversion & Misc Brake ???'s

[MASTERBrian]

I'm debating if I'll repair the factory brakes on my '60 suburban or bite the bullet and go discs up front/possibly rear. The deciding factor will be how bad everything under the wheels is.

I plan on doing complete new brake lines/hoses as the truck sat for 15yrs, there is no fluid in the reservoir and I have no pedal play. Not sure if I can rebuild my current master, I know there are kits, or if I'll just replace it.

I want to keep my existing 6 lug setup and I have found a company that sells the entire conversion for $1200-1300 for 6 lug wheels and that included stock or drop spindles.

My question is, can I buy this stuff out of a salvage yard and what's the pros/cons of doing so? I was speaking with one the other day and the guy seemed to say I could go up to an '87 and get what I needed. He supposedly has a personal '67 C10, so he kind of understands the delima here. He would sell me a booster for $35 and a master for $20 and said he could also set me up with the brackets I need and I believe even the the rotors and such. Is this indeed doable? I've done lots of research, but I still get lost on what does and doesn't work and why.

What about doing the rear? My '03 suburban has 4 wheel discs and is 6 lug, would something from a similar year bolt on? Again, I realize there are some things that are different, but not sure if enough to matter. I also have had to rebuild the entire system on my '03 because parts store gave me the wrong rotors once and it shredded my system after a few thousand miles....luckily they picked up the tab, but I know the parts aren't cheap, so for new the kits aren't that bad. I'm just looking to save some $$ for now while I get other things tackled.

I'm also curious if it's wise to buy pre-bent lines for $180 or buy straight lines and bend myself.

Thanks for any advice for or against.....I'm hoping to be on this project within the next couple of weeks if not sooner.

[MASTERBrian]

One other thought....

I realize a lot of people convert to the 5 lug front/rear ends to up their choices of wheels, but I'm not concerned with that, so I'm sticking with 6 lugs. I currently have a set of 15" 'hurricane mags'? They obviously aren't original, so how do I know if they are new enough to clear the discs? Could I try them on my '99 k1500 or my '03 c1500?

I eventually plan on going with a wheel that I can run smoothies on, but for now, I have these! Again, for now it's all about prioritizing the funds!

[Overdriven]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

The above thread breaks it down pretty well. 60-62 your only options are an aftermarket kit or swapping to a later year crossmember with suspension arms, steering system and brake package. 73-87 is the preferred years for the geometry and brakes. Those are going to be 5 lug so you might as well get the rear as well and be all 5 lug. You'll need to cutoff the leaf spring perches on the axle and weld on the trailing arm mounts. If your burb is already leaf spring the perches may need to be moved, really don't know about that one though. The only way to get 6 lug brakes with your stock crossmember and arms is with an aftermarket kit.

As for even newer 2000's 6 lug stuff. The first thing you need to know is the change in how the wheel centers itself between old and new. One is by the lug nuts the other is by the wheel center, I forget which uses which but they're different. And the register/flange on the axle/hub is also a different diameter between old and new 6 lug. I believe old 6 lug is larger requiring newer 6 lug wheels to have the centers bored out.

The bigger issue with all the newer 6 lug stuff is the width. The trucks themselves are a little wider and the wheels have different offset. Put say a 2001 6 lug axle under one of our trucks and you won't be able to use wheels with the old timey offset. If you search the forum there are guys putting newer 6 lug frames (or at least the front and/or rear sections) under their 60-72 trucks and they have to run newer style wheels with the correct offset to keep them in the fenders.

If it were me and you have access to junk 73-87 front suspension and rear I'd go that route. You get 5 lug, you know what all the parts are, parts are available everywhere for cheap and it may work out cheaper than an aftermarket disc kit. With aftermarket 6 lug kits, most of them use 73-87 calipers but they may be something else and you have to get replacement 6 lug rotors from whoever you got the conversion kit from. Going with 6 lug from a 2000's truck requires frame surgery, with lots more in unknown custom fabrication territory. Up to you whether you're up for that or not.

[Overdriven]

As for your wheels. Aftermarket brake kits for these trucks use 12" rotors just like the stock trucks did. I have no idea how much the caliper adds to the diameter but would assume .5-1" more. Simply measure the inside of the wheel and see if there's enough diameter in there. Depending on the exact wheel shape this might not be enough as the caliper could hit the spokes or where the spokes transition to the hoop. But a quick search of 15" hurricane wheels showed 2 different models that I wouldn't think would be a problem for stock style 12" disc brakes.

[PGSigns]

You can also just do the front with a donor front crosmember and ad 6 lug rotors. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cp4r-6 When you do the upgrade also do the duel pot master cylinder upgrade. Brackets are available in the 60 to 66 parts section from Captnfab. You wheels are a maybe but may work just fine. You will have to test.
Jimmy

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

You can also just do the front with a donor front crosmember and ad 6 lug rotors. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cp4r-6 When you do the upgrade also do the duel pot master cylinder upgrade. Brackets are available in the 60 to 66 parts section from Captnfab. You wheels are a maybe but may work just fine. You will have to test.
Jimmy

I didn't realize these rotors were available and the applications they fit. That certainly changes things if you're swapping in a later year crossmember and already have other parts.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

I didn't realize these rotors were available and the applications they fit. That certainly changes things if you're swapping in a later year crossmember and already have other parts.

The thread linked in one of the above posts stated all of that.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

Quote:
60-62 Truck With 6-lug Disc Brakes:

6-Lug Drum to 6-Lug Disc Conversions:
1) This 6-lug disc brake swap will include all of the above 5-lug information.

2) The only difference is the use of an aftermarket 6-lug rotor.
* These rotors are new castings.
* These rotors have been drilled with the correct 6x5.5" 6-lug pattern.
* These rotors have the correct 7/16" lug studs that match the original drum brake lug studs.

3) Several aftermarket suspension vendors sell these rotors,... such as:
* ECE (Early Classic Enterprises).
* POL (Performance OnLine).
* CPP (Classic Performance Products).

4) All 60-62 "conversion" stock height and drop spindles will work with these 6-lug rotors.

5) All 71-72 stock oem and drop spindles will work with these 6-lug rotors.

6) If using a 73-87 spindle,... it must be the HD spindle, that works with the 1-1/4" wide rotors.
* The 81-87 LD spindles will not work with these 6-lug rotors.

I think when I wrote that thread, I tried to cover all the bases and possible suspension swap.
Now I think all it does, is confuse people.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

The only way to get 6 lug brakes with your stock crossmember and arms is with an aftermarket kit.

Not exactly correct.
You can use all oem HD parts with just the addition of "aftermarket" 6-lug rotors.

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I think when I wrote that thread, I tried to cover all the bases and possible suspension swap.
Now I think all it does, is confuse people.

I didn't read all of it, otherwise would've known how compatible and available everything is.

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

I didn't read all of it, otherwise would've known how compatible and available everything is.

That's my fault. Plus I think those new to these trucks just get overwhelmed with info, don't remember things right, no fault of your thread. But I ended up pretty close thanks to your thread and do appreciate you making it.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

That's my fault. Plus I think those new to these trucks just get overwhelmed with info, don't remember things right, no fault of your thread. But I ended up pretty close thanks to your thread and do appreciate you making it.

You've hit the nail on the head. I'm very new to this and trying to get this truck on the road no later than May, so I'm asking and asking and getting confused in the meantime.

I was at salvage yard the other day getting a cable style accelerator pedal to convert over to and I asked about disc brakes/mastercylinder Booster. They had a couple of the conversion 5 lug front ends from 80's(?) model front ends and he showed me the setup out of the truck. While I agree that somewhat simplifies things, I'm still a bit at odds. That was $400 and I'd still likely have to/want to put new parts on a salvage front end brake system, though I might be able to by some time with a good setup.

[MASTERBrian]

I stopped the above post because I want to try to clearly ask a few questions....

1) What do I exactly gain by swapping front ends? My understanding is the ability to go with 5 lug wheels. I don't care about that. I also understand, some have the mounts already in place for power steering....right now that's not a concern either. Isn't there a kit for adding that to the '60 front end?

The way I see it is I spend $400 for the donor front end and still have to possibly buy new rotors, hoses, calipers, pads, bearings, etc....OR I just buy the kit from LMC for $400 and convert just my brake assembly and that is now all new!

I will back up a bit and say it appears I need different spindles, but I'll need those anyway as I want a drop spindle.

2) Disc Brake Master and Booster Kit. LMC sells this kit for my '60 and it's $300. At the salvage yard they said a common swap is from an S-10 as it is smaller and a tripple bladder, I believe. One of the other guys said he used a booster from a '95 Chevy Truck (k1500 I believe) and that it bolted right up to the firewall. Those are $145 at O'reilly. Or I buy a bracket from Captain Fab on here for $50, I believe. Personally, if going new the kit doesn't appear too badly priced as it also includes the combination valve, but not sure it that's needed if I use the proper booster/master anyway. Input on this?

3) Brake lines? I was planning on buying a complete new set of pre-bent lines as it seems cheap enough at $179 for the kit including new hose and 2 line setup. If I were to do that, should I basically be set to go if I go with a 2 can master without booster and/or if I go with a booster/master kit? Or will that only work with a factory setup?

As soon as I can get my truck spun around in the driveway, I'll start pulling the wheels off to check to see where I am. Due to my schedule, if I can get the factory system working cheap enough, that's how I'm going for now, but if they are needing a complete overhaul then I'll do it now. I might also do it if I can make it happen for a fair price.

Lastly, I can't see why some kits are $1300 and kits like LMC where sold individually are $600+ cost of spindles, which is about $300. Am I missing something else???

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

The above thread breaks it down pretty well. 60-62 your only options are an aftermarket kit or swapping to a later year crossmember with suspension arms, steering system and brake package. 73-87 is the preferred years for the geometry and brakes. Those are going to be 5 lug so you might as well get the rear as well and be all 5 lug. You'll need to cutoff the leaf spring perches on the axle and weld on the trailing arm mounts. If your burb is already leaf spring the perches may need to be moved, really don't know about that one though. The only way to get 6 lug brakes with your stock crossmember and arms is with an aftermarket kit.

As for even newer 2000's 6 lug stuff. The first thing you need to know is the change in how the wheel centers itself between old and new. One is by the lug nuts the other is by the wheel center, I forget which uses which but they're different. And the register/flange on the axle/hub is also a different diameter between old and new 6 lug. I believe old 6 lug is larger requiring newer 6 lug wheels to have the centers bored out.

The bigger issue with all the newer 6 lug stuff is the width. The trucks themselves are a little wider and the wheels have different offset. Put say a 2001 6 lug axle under one of our trucks and you won't be able to use wheels with the old timey offset. If you search the forum there are guys putting newer 6 lug frames (or at least the front and/or rear sections) under their 60-72 trucks and they have to run newer style wheels with the correct offset to keep them in the fenders.

If it were me and you have access to junk 73-87 front suspension and rear I'd go that route. You get 5 lug, you know what all the parts are, parts are available everywhere for cheap and it may work out cheaper than an aftermarket disc kit. With aftermarket 6 lug kits, most of them use 73-87 calipers but they may be something else and you have to get replacement 6 lug rotors from whoever you got the conversion kit from. Going with 6 lug from a 2000's truck requires frame surgery, with lots more in unknown custom fabrication territory. Up to you whether you're up for that or not.

Unfortunately, there wasn't much on that link that seems to relate if I stay with the factory 6 lug front and suspension on my truck, BUT....

I did get the take away that HD 6 lug 1-1/4" rotors. I was looking online and I did find a company, western chassis, that offers a drop spindle 2.5" drop H.D. for 1-1/4" Rotor. They seem to say they work with '73 HD 1-1/4" brake rotors. So...I went to O'reilly's website and I priced up the rotors, calipers, bearings, seals, spindle nut and dust cap and I'm at just under $100 a side, which is $100 less than the kit, but the kit offers hoses, so if I need hoses, kit isn't too bad, but I was looking at a brake line kit that included hoses.

Then, the Booster/master/prop valve, is $300. Again, not horrible, but I think Capnfab offers his bracket for less than $50, a new '95 booster is $150 and a prop valve is about $50....which again is close to a wash, unless I could get the master and such at a salvage for a fraction, it might not be too bad.

Based on this, what are the thoughts?

I'm still torn on the different front end vs doing this. It seems it's all out there and readily available and it also appears I'm nailing down the years of what works and doesn't. The thing with replacing the front end with newer is I start opening that can of worms, like you say, might as well do the rear, then it's all new wheels, probably tires as well, then might as well do this and that. It all sounds good, but I really just want this truck on the road and figure if I start making too many changes it never will be! So, I appreciate the honesty and if that's truly the way to go, then I need to focus there, but if I'm not gaining much else and I don't have to buy all new wheels right now, then even better....it's possibly my rear end is shot anyway. I have no clue and if that's the case, then by all means I might start seriously start looking at the 5 lug swap!!

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

I stopped the above post because I want to try to clearly ask a few questions....

1) What do I exactly gain by swapping front ends? My understanding is the ability to go with 5 lug wheels. I don't care about that. I also understand, some have the mounts already in place for power steering....right now that's not a concern either. Isn't there a kit for adding that to the '60 front end?

The way I see it is I spend $400 for the donor front end and still have to possibly buy new rotors, hoses, calipers, pads, bearings, etc....OR I just buy the kit from LMC for $400 and convert just my brake assembly and that is now all new!

I will back up a bit and say it appears I need different spindles, but I'll need those anyway as I want a drop spindle.

2) Disc Brake Master and Booster Kit. LMC sells this kit for my '60 and it's $300. At the salvage yard they said a common swap is from an S-10 as it is smaller and a tripple bladder, I believe. One of the other guys said he used a booster from a '95 Chevy Truck (k1500 I believe) and that it bolted right up to the firewall. Those are $145 at O'reilly. Or I buy a bracket from Captain Fab on here for $50, I believe. Personally, if going new the kit doesn't appear too badly priced as it also includes the combination valve, but not sure it that's needed if I use the proper booster/master anyway. Input on this?

3) Brake lines? I was planning on buying a complete new set of pre-bent lines as it seems cheap enough at $179 for the kit including new hose and 2 line setup. If I were to do that, should I basically be set to go if I go with a 2 can master without booster and/or if I go with a booster/master kit? Or will that only work with a factory setup?

As soon as I can get my truck spun around in the driveway, I'll start pulling the wheels off to check to see where I am. Due to my schedule, if I can get the factory system working cheap enough, that's how I'm going for now, but if they are needing a complete overhaul then I'll do it now. I might also do it if I can make it happen for a fair price.

Lastly, I can't see why some kits are $1300 and kits like LMC where sold individually are $600+ cost of spindles, which is about $300. Am I missing something else???

Man,... your info is all over the place.

I for one,... am not a fan of donor parts.
They are wore out and will need the money spent on them to rebuild them.
But they do get you away from your torsion bar front end that the 60-62 trucks have.
I'm at work so I don't have time to write a detailed answer.
Stay away from S10 parts. THAT IS ALL WRONG!
71-72 brake M/C is a direct bolt on.
Surely there is someone that can help you on this board.
Otherwise PM me with your questions and I will try to help.

There is nothing on a newer crossmember that will allow your power steering to bolt on.
The P/S box bolts to the frame rail.

Someone please jump in with the correct info.
Gotta go back to work.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Man,... your info is all over the place.

I for one,... am not a fan of donor parts.
They are wore out and will need the money spent on them to rebuild them.
But they do get you away from your torsion bar front end that the 60-62 trucks have.
I'm at work so I don't have time to write a detailed answer.
Stay away from S10 parts. THAT IS ALL WRONG!
71-72 brake M/C is a direct bolt on.
Surely there is someone that can help you on this board.
Otherwise PM me with your questions and I will try to help.

There is nothing on a newer crossmember that will allow your power steering to bolt on.
The P/S box bolts to the frame rail.

Someone please jump in with the correct info.
Gotta go back to work.

If you think that's all over the place don't venture into my brain!

What you say about donor parts is the EXACT reason I'm somewhat skeptical of going with the newer style front end. I tend to pay cash and buy 5-10yr old vehicles....my current kick is the suburbans. I've had three, excluding this 1960, and every single one of them has gone in for front end work after I buy it. It's not a shock, I just expect it at this point.

I'm also not against the torsion bar. I kind of actually like the ease of having another option to go a bit lower cheaply and easily if I so choose AFTER the spindles.

At this point, unless I'm missing something, I'll likely buy some spindles when the time comes and start building my setup from scratch. Other than the added ease of having someone else through the parts in a box and shipping it to me so I don't have to run a mile down the street and spend 30min or so at a parts counter, I see no benefit of ordering the kit at this stage. For $100, I can spend 30min or so BS'ing with the guys at the parts counter!

When you say the 71-72 master is a direct bolt on, are you saying on my 1960 I won't need a bracket? The guy at the salvage said a 95 was a direct bolt on as well, but can't recall if he was talking 66 or 67.

[lolife99]

Sorry the 71-72 style m/c is a direct bolt on with a bracket. (Forgot I was dealing with a 60-66).
If your keeping your torsion bar front end, buy some 60-62 conversion spindles. (Drop or stock) whichever you prefer.
Use aftermarket rotors to get 6-lug.
Buy calipers for a 71-87 HD rotor.
Brake hoses can be purchased from www.earlyclassic.com.
Or fabbed from 71-72 hoses and some tube bending of steel lines.
This swap has been done many times.
Not sure if you can get a complete bolt on swap without buying a kit, but you can get close.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Sorry the 71-72 style m/c is a direct bolt on with a bracket. (Forgot I was dealing with a 60-66).
If your keeping your torsion bar front end, buy some 60-62 conversion spindles. (Drop or stock) whichever you prefer.
Use aftermarket rotors to get 6-lug.
Buy calipers for a 71-87 HD rotor.
Brake hoses can be purchased from www.earlyclassic.com.
Or fabbed from 71-72 hoses and some tube bending of steel lines.
This swap has been done many times.
Not sure if you can get a complete bolt on swap without buying a kit, but you can get close.

I finally got my LMC Catalog in the mail today, so that helps with looking parts up much easier than searching online. With that I see that their drop spindles work with 1971-72 GM truck disc brakes. Not sure how that differs from the 73-up that the other company uses, but I'll compare parts.

I was considering using the bake line kit from LMC, but they can't seem to confirm or deny that they will work on my '60 burb or if they'll work with the booster. They are asking and said call back next week. In the meantime, I looked up and I can buy a roll of brake line for $25, so I'll probably try my hand at bending my own lines. Have to do the fuel line anyway!

Not sure what you are referring to on not getting a complete bolt on swap without buying kit, wouldn't I just buy the drop spindles, then go to parts store and look at a diagram and buy all the pieces that go onto a '71 stock spindle with discs?, run a hose, then bend hard lines and put in T's where needed and run the lines to the booster?

I guess I'll go visit Capnfab's link and get a bracket ordered and then get the '71 booster if that's what is confirmed to be a direct bolt onto the bracket and then firewall. I realize I also need a proportioning valve, unless I opt for rear discs as well. Haven't even looked into that.

One last VERY IMPORTANT question is.....everyone says HD Rotors. Are they referring to the K10 series? Is the key I'm looking for a 6 lug hub?

****a bit off track, wouldn't it be possible to buy the new spindle and run a 5 lug rotor or would those not work. I'm not planning on doing so, just curious. My understanding is the C series in '71 and up is 5 lug, the K series is 6 lug and the 20 series is 8 lug.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

I finally got my LMC Catalog in the mail today, so that helps with looking parts up much easier than searching online. With that I see that their drop spindles work with 1971-72 GM truck disc brakes. Not sure how that differs from the 73-up that the other company uses, but I'll compare parts.

I was considering using the bake line kit from LMC, but they can't seem to confirm or deny that they will work on my '60 burb or if they'll work with the booster. They are asking and said call back next week. In the meantime, I looked up and I can buy a roll of brake line for $25, so I'll probably try my hand at bending my own lines. Have to do the fuel line anyway!

Not sure what you are referring to on not getting a complete bolt on swap without buying kit, wouldn't I just buy the drop spindles, then go to parts store and look at a diagram and buy all the pieces that go onto a '71 stock spindle with discs?, run a hose, then bend hard lines and put in T's where needed and run the lines to the booster?

I guess I'll go visit Capnfab's link and get a bracket ordered and then get the '71 booster if that's what is confirmed to be a direct bolt onto the bracket and then firewall. I realize I also need a proportioning valve, unless I opt for rear discs as well. Haven't even looked into that.

One last VERY IMPORTANT question is.....everyone says HD Rotors. Are they referring to the K10 series? Is the key I'm looking for a 6 lug hub?

****a bit off track, wouldn't it be possible to buy the new spindle and run a 5 lug rotor or would those not work. I'm not planning on doing so, just curious. My understanding is the C series in '71 and up is 5 lug, the K series is 6 lug and the 20 series is 8 lug.

By HD rotors I mean 1-1/4" wide 71-87 rotors. NOT the 1" rotors GM also used from 1981-87.

By complete kit,... I mean I don't think there is a way to buy EVERY part without doing some mods or tube bending and flaring, etc.

5-lug oem 1-1/4" rotors will work fine,... I just thought you wanted 6-lug.
Maybe I have you confused with someone else.


My biggest suggestion to you is to forget LMC.
They have great pictures in their catelogs but that's it.
Call Mark at Early Classic Enterprises.
www.earlyclassic.com
These guys are truck guys.
They sell parts but they also own and work on these Year trucks.

Good luck.
Sorry no one else jumped in to help.

[MASTERBrian]

I do want 6 lug was just curious about the five. I just left parts store and the five lug rotors were totally different. No reason to worry about that, got my answer.

I was put off by lmc when they couldn't tell need of their brake lines would work.

I think I can get everything I need by piecing it together from parts store and for considerably less. Only thing I can't get is the valve and the bracket. I'll either find valve online or hit up salvage. Guy at parts store said he had that issue with one of his trucks. I might look into rear discs as well and then I wouldn't need that.

The rear depends totally on condition of what I find back there.

[lolife99]

Drop spindle and 6-lug rotors will need to be aftermarket.
Everything else can be oem.
I suggest an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line regardless of rear drum or disc brakes.
They are cheap and can be bought from Summit Racing, Speedway Motors, Jegs, etc.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Drop spindle and 6-lug rotors will need to be aftermarket.
Everything else can be oem.
I suggest an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line regardless of rear drum or disc brakes.
They are cheap and can be bought from Summit Racing, Speedway Motors, Jegs, etc.

Why Must the rotors be aftermarket? Everyone seems to say '71 and up rotors will work. My understanding from conversion I had today was that 73was the same except those calipers took a different brake line connection.

[lolife99]

71--87 oem GM rotors are 5-lug only!

The 71-87 Gm 6-lug rotors are totally different.
They came on 4x4 trucks NOT 2wd trucks.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by lolife99

71--87 oem GM rotors are 5-lug only!

The 71-87 Gm 6-lug rotors are totally different.
They came on 4x4 trucks NOT 2wd trucks.

Ok, I see that now when looking back at some of the kits. I could swear I saw a kit that used the 4x4 style rotors.

Without sounding repetitive, with 'Most' kits then if you do this you are stuck with aftermarket rotors IF I go 6 lug?

Personally, this bothers me a bit. How do I know the company I buy from won't go out of business or change the design and now I'm stuck replacing everything at the wheel again? My guess is if I buy a spindle from LMC a rotor from them or early classic will fit or even from another manufacturer....is this correct? If not you see the dilemma. IF so then I would think it's common from something out there.

I honestly prefer to stay 6 lug as I have wheels, even though not my favorite, but if doing so means I have to buy 'special' rotors, then maybe I can solve that by going to a 5 lug, but that begs the following question. IF simply buying 5 lug rotors works on the same spindle then why do people go through the effort of installing the newer style front suspension? My understanding was to get a 5 lug hub.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

Ok, I see that now when looking back at some of the kits. I could swear I saw a kit that used the 4x4 style rotors.

Without sounding repetitive, with 'Most' kits then if you do this you are stuck with aftermarket rotors IF I go 6 lug?

Personally, this bothers me a bit. How do I know the company I buy from won't go out of business or change the design and now I'm stuck replacing everything at the wheel again? My guess is if I buy a spindle from LMC a rotor from them or early classic will fit or even from another manufacturer....is this correct? If not you see the dilemma. IF so then I would think it's common from something out there.

I honestly prefer to stay 6 lug as I have wheels, even though not my favorite, but if doing so means I have to buy 'special' rotors, then maybe I can solve that by going to a 5 lug, but that begs the following question. IF simply buying 5 lug rotors works on the same spindle then why do people go through the effort of installing the newer style front suspension? My understanding was to get a 5 lug hub.

Well I just got off the phone with a supplier of these and I think he cleared some things up. I guess the other added benefit of the newer front end is the ability to drop with a coil as well. He also said if availability of a rotor is an issue ever, I could always go with an off the shelf 5 lug rotor. Guess I'll weigh the pros/cons of that. Maybe I could save enough by going that route to pay for my wheels. I think O'Reilly sells the 5 lug for $30....the 6 lug online is $130ish. That's a bill towards the wheels I want, which are about $110 each. Hmmm...

I guess at this point, I'm honestly in a hold UNTIL I get my truck spun around, yank the motor out and start investigating what I have up front and if everything is sound! I have a source for the newer style front end right now for $400, so that's a definite option.... Maybe I'll even investigate what I'm getting for that $400 and how much for the master to go with it.

***A little out loud thinking here, the kit to do mine with 2-1/2" front drop is about $1300. I can save some here and there by buying a few parts locally I believe, but I need to still put pencil to paper. Now if I convert the front for $400, get a $100 master/booster and $50 bracket, That leaves about $800 in the bank to make/buy lines and wheels. Unless I am again missing something. Obviously with used brakes, eventually I'd have to go through them, but pads and a turning of rotor isn't too bad and those rotors aren't that expensive either.

[lolife99]

I hate that you are paying $400 for a front crossmember assembly.
I scrapped two 73-87 crossmembers because I couldn't sell them for $50 each.

You are worried too much about the rotors.
The aftermarket 6-lug rotors have been around A LONG TIME!
All the major suspension companies sell them.
McGaughy's, ECE, with CPP ususally being the cheapest when bought thru Summit Racing.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cp4r-6/overview/
SOMEONE has to manufacture these. They are just blank rotors, (exactly like the 5-lug rotors) than have been drilled to the 6x5.5 pattern instead of the 5x5 5-lug pattern>

In this day and age of online shopping and free shipping,... look at Summit Racing, Jegs, Rock Auto, Amazon, and any other source you can think of,... to buy these parts and others.

Good luck with your project,...