1 barrel rochester carb 1967 problem

[G8rN@te61]

its a '61 with 3 speed saginaw but has a 250 out of a '71 Camaro. No haven't gapped the plugs yet but plan on that tomorrow. Curious, instead of gapping couldn't you just use a "hotter" plug or is that logic incorrect? Also, my timing gauge on engine housing only goes to 10....

I actually drove it to a restaurant to get take out for about 6 miles total. Still smokes slightly but no pinging. Although I can't really do full wide open throttle yet. The lever arm is short I think and not pulling the throttle cable far enough to open up the carbs 4 barrels. Another thing need to customize I guess.

Did I have the wiring correct on the relay?

thanks again for your help!

-Nate

[VWNate1]

Not to worry about the timing indicator, that's why I said to get a dynamic timing light with the advance dial on the back .

You should have gapped the spark plugs very first thing, it makes an amazing difference / improvement because wider gaps force the ignition system to it's full out pout and the hotter sparks burn everything, oil, gas .

DO NOT use hotter spark plugs unless you're forced to, after you've done everything else .

FWIW, when I'm at auto swap meets I always find at least one good timing light and give $5 for it ~ the ones I buy are the old chrome metal case SEARS Craftsman inductive typ, so far none was broken, I bought one that didn't have the dial to get the cord & inductive pickup for my 45 year old old I plain old wore out after forty five years of daily commercial use .

No one I've even met has had the far less user friendly plastic Snap-On ones last even 1/2 that long .


The advance dial allows you to set the full advance timing using the 10 degree indicator .

For now, just leave the timing where it is, re gap the spark plugs and then re adjust the idle mixture .

A vacuum gauge will help you set the mixture better .

You don't need new tool$ ~ used will do, remember : I grew up a farmer and every penny counted .

Not "poor" because that's a state of mind , broke, very different and I live well (I'm fat & contented) in spite of little $ .

Keep at it .

I wish I was closer, once I show you how it's done you'll be able to keep an old nail running sweetly for pennies and make $ tuning your friends and neighbors rigs sharply once they see how well yours runs...

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

Not to worry about the timing indicator, that's why I said to get a dynamic timing light with the advance dial on the back .

You should have gapped the spark plugs very first thing, it makes an amazing difference / improvement because wider gaps force the ignition system to it's full out pout and the hotter sparks burn everything, oil, gas .

DO NOT use hotter spark plugs unless you're forced to, after you've done everything else .

FWIW, when I'm at auto swap meets I always find at least one good timing light and give $5 for it ~ the ones I buy are the old chrome metal case SEARS Craftsman inductive typ, so far none was broken, I bought one that didn't have the dial to get the cord & inductive pickup for my 45 year old old I plain old wore out after forty five years of daily commercial use .

No one I've even met has had the far less user friendly plastic Snap-On ones last even 1/2 that long .


The advance dial allows you to set the full advance timing using the 10 degree indicator .

For now, just leave the timing where it is, re gap the spark plugs and then re adjust the idle mixture .

A vacuum gauge will help you set the mixture better .

You don't need new tool$ ~ used will do, remember : I grew up a farmer and every penny counted .

Not "poor" because that's a state of mind , broke, very different and I live well (I'm fat & contented) in spite of little $ .

Keep at it .

I wish I was closer, once I show you how it's done you'll be able to keep an old nail running sweetly for pennies and make $ tuning your friends and neighbors rigs sharply once they see how well yours runs...

All good advice! It seems like when people want to help, the other person is on the other side of the continent. How come people near us never seem to ask for help? It's always fun to lean in over the fender and make something run better, in person.

OP- the 1404 appears to have vacuum secondaries, so you only need to make sure that the primary bores are all the way open when the pedal is on the floor. The secondaries will come in as the engine demands that. Note that they will not open if the choke is not all the way open, and only open under load. You probably won't be able to get them to open when the truck is standing, and I don't recommend it, in any event. If you still have a hesitation off the line you may need to rejet or replace the metering rods. It's a piece of cake to just replace the metering rods. You should have received a DVD with your carburetor. They'll go into detail about it, but you can usually go in steps of 4 on the metering rods to richen it up enough to cover that hesitation. See if one of your friends has the jet and rod kit. You need 2 metering rods, and buying the whole kit is a spendy way to go to get over the hesitation. The soot mark on the floor is possibly from having the choke too tight, and then when the engine first starts there's going to be condensed water. That means you don't have any or small exhaust leaks.

[Corts60]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

Have you checked for a worn throttle shaft. They cause a vac. leak off idle.

X2. Throttle shaft bushings most likely causing un-metered air to enter and leaning out mix when moving throttle off-idle.

[G8rN@te61]

no hesitation whatsoever as compared to the old setup with the mono jet. It just doesn't seem to "kick in" and roar when I floor it. I am pretty sure the pedal is not pulling the cable far enough because I can get it to light up when I do it manually on the carb.

Can you recommend a timing gun? I found the INNOV 3568 on Amazon which has mixed reviews. Also the Actron Digital Timing Lights CP7529. Nothing available locally they are all just the simple light gun like I already have. There is a guy selling a brand new Mac tools one for $150 but Im not sure I want to spend that kind of money. I need it for other stuff on the truck!

[Steeveedee]

That deep secondary roar may only come at high enough RPMs. Do you have an open element air cleaner? If not, you may never hear it. I don't have a dial back timing light, myself.

[G8rN@te61]

Gapped all to .45. They were all over the place. #3 was down around .25 and very black carbonized. Maybe I hit it when installing it last time or something. Others were only slightly blackened. I ran it down to the store and back and while it runs great it still seems to smoke and have a little bit of soot.

I also installed the relay but now it intermittently doesn't want to shut off when I turn key off...

[Steeveedee]

The relay is probably sticking if it is a mechanical(?) one. Depending on where its power comes from there could be feedback from somewhere else. If it's mechanical, tap it after you shut the engine off and see if that kills it. I'd also check to see if it has a small amount of power to it when the engine is off, before starting it, say, in the morning. I used an aftermarket starter solenoid from the four-letter car factory. If you look at your fuse box, there should be an "Ignition Unfused" slot that you can run power through to an HEI that eliminates all that relay business. I learned that one here on this site.

[RichardJ]

>> Its a four prong so I assume its 30 to 12v power, 86 to solenoid green, 85 solenoid black, and 87 to the HEI? Curious though, I am getting 12volts from the solenoid to the HEI already. Is it an amperage thing? If so what kind of amperage do I need to have at a minimum?<<

For most, the actual current draw of the stock, original HEI is of little importance or at least they seem to think they know more about the HEI than Chevy.

From the horse's mouth. Spec sheet for 1975 Chevy C10-30, the first year of the HEI.

The stock, original HEI draws 2 Amps. Listed as Ignition in the first image.

For those that can't be convinced or are using a big MSD that may draw about 10 Amps then I'll look at how a relay should be wired.

Relay pin 30 is connected to 12 Volts, preferably from Junction Block near the Battery. Not the starter solenoid.

Pin 87 does go to the HEI Bat terminal.

>>86 to solenoid green, 85 solenoid black<< I'm not going to waste my time asking what that means, other than to say I hope it has nothing to do with the starter solenoid.
Pin 85 should go to ground. A short wire from pin 85 to the screw holding the relay to the fender is all that is needed. Pin 86 is connected to the control voltage (ignition switch) to turn the relay ON, when the key is in the ON or RUN position.

Sorry the wiring diagram is so small. No matter what I did to the image, the forum software miniaturized it. Hopefully you can use your browser and make it large enough to be useful.

The 12 V source for the ignition source, as with everything, starts at the battery and goes through the bulkhead connector and is still labeled 12R. 12R goes to the horn relay, the headlight switch, PART of the fuse panel and to the ignition switch. The ignition switch connects the 12R to the 12P. 12P runs back to the bulkhead connector and also feeds another PART of the fuse panel.

For those that think, punching a wire through the firewall in order to connect to the fuse panel is a good idea, I will always argue that they are spinning their wheels.
The 12P from the ignition switch, already connects the 12Volts directly to the bulkhead connector.

You don't even have to stick your head under the dash to get the 12 Volts for the ignition distributor. Remove the resistance wire from the bulkhead connector on the engine side of the firewall and run a new wire directly to the HEI or if you really must, to pin 86 of the totally unnecessary relay.

I have the Innova 3568. If it has any fault, it is that the cable can be detached from the bottom of the handle too easily. When I bought mine years ago, the upgraded version with Red rubber protectors was quite a bit more expensive. If you do consider the Innova, for myself I would consider the upgraded red model with dwell and voltmeter features. The Actron is 1/2 that, so your choice.

[VWNate1]

I see you now have all the info you need.... .

I've received much help here and tried to give back as I can .

There are little differences in how everyone does essentially the same thing, some fail to grasp this .

If it's still smoking I'd adjust the metering rod leaner first thing .

The off idle flat spot is usually caused by the vacuum advance line being incorrectly connected to the wrong port on the carby .

[G8rN@te61]

thanks again for your help Nate!