Two Tone BC/CC methods

[72HuggerK20]

This has gotten me to thinking a little bit, and I could use your input on this Brian. So most companies say that if you go over the topcoat time window of the basecoat (24 hours or whatever it is), you should scuff, re-basecoat, and then clear. Assuming that you aren't messing with metallics or tricoats, would it be out of line to assume that you can scuff the basecoat, spray the entire area with the recommended basecoat blender for whatever system you are using, and then clear the blender? Or could you even do a little pre-planning and shoot ~2 coats of blender over your wet basecoat to give you something to scuff later without actually scuffing the basecoat? And then go ahead and clear? Or could you even skip the step and just scuff the basecoat and clear it? Not trying to be a bench chemist, just trying to figure out a good way to do two-tone.

[Flying Hamster]

Depends on a lot of things.
Manufacturer says "24 hours" and knows it will work.
You can stretch that window a little and have no problems, you might stretch it a lot and get away with it, or, it may go bad.
If you stretch the window, the Mfgr. is off the hood...

(God, I miss Lacquer. No fuss, no muss. No "windows", No hardeners)

[72HuggerK20]

Originally Posted by Flying Hamster

(God, I miss Lacquer. No fuss, no muss. No "windows", No hardeners)

And with a quick splash of thinner, no paint!

[bandit0067]

Several guys on my Chevelle site have stated they don t like to clear coat over white.....and then give their reasons. I have done several bc/cc jobs myself , but never over white...so I am not sure what they are seeing. I have sanded and buffed both single and two stage and had good results. All you guys are ok with cc ing over white.
My last chevelle will be painted its original 69 white and I am working towards my 71 c 10 as a white and orange truck. Would that be a different white....as to the tape lines, don t the upper and lower moulding cover most of that...

[72HuggerK20]

Don't get me wrong, I hate clearing white too. Only because you can't see a damn thing while you're doing it. It's really hard to see dry spots. I really dislike single stage though because I find it much harder to spray.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by 72HuggerK20

This has gotten me to thinking a little bit, and I could use your input on this Brian. So most companies say that if you go over the topcoat time window of the basecoat (24 hours or whatever it is), you should scuff, re-basecoat, and then clear. Assuming that you aren't messing with metallics or tricoats, would it be out of line to assume that you can scuff the basecoat, spray the entire area with the recommended basecoat blender for whatever system you are using, and then clear the blender? Or could you even do a little pre-planning and shoot ~2 coats of blender over your wet basecoat to give you something to scuff later without actually scuffing the basecoat? And then go ahead and clear? Or could you even skip the step and just scuff the basecoat and clear it? Not trying to be a bench chemist, just trying to figure out a good way to do two-tone.

Yep you really need to follow the manufacturers guidelines! I use to shoot SW (I was a paint rep for them, the Martin Senour label) and the recoat window was 7 days! Love that stuff!

Brian

[msg]

Stumbled in here, the two tone restoration I am now doing on my 66 fleetside will also have a white top and the white stripes on the side in between the chrome, plus the tailgate lettering. As a newbie I am so glad I read this information. I will need to sort out though when to spray the white strip on the doors, fender and hood, but I know Ill be shopping for some fine line tape!

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by msg

Stumbled in here, the two tone restoration I am now doing on my 66 fleetside will also have a white top and the white stripes on the side in between the chrome, plus the tailgate lettering. As a newbie I am so glad I read this information. I will need to sort out though when to spray the white strip on the doors, fender and hood, but I know Ill be shopping for some fine line tape!

Usually I would say spray the overall color then the white being the white is small, but yours is really small compared and I am thinking it takes more masking but check this out. You have the whole truck just prior to prepping for paint, all in primer let's say. You mask off to paint the white but only with like foot wide paper just so you don't have direct overspray on the primer surrounding the white. The overspray past that paper, who cares, you are going to be sanding it for paint anyway right?

So you put the little paper around the white areas and paint and clear them. Then sand the truck for painting the other color leaving of course the white untouched. You then cover the white areas with paper and shoot the truck the primary color and unmask the white and wham, done.

Especially with the white roof this works good because you don't have to worry about the hood and what ever is below it getting damaged.

Brian

[msg]

Yeah I have a fully dismantled truck and single car garage so I will be painting part for part and then re assembling, so I had thought to in the case of the cab mask off the part that gets the contrasting color (in my case metallic saddle) and spray the white first. In fact I wondered if I even needed to mask it off at all? Maybe instead just shoot the white on the top and where the stripes wrap around the backside of the cab. Then mask off for the saddle color. I was worrying about the hard edge that would form if I were to mask the white areas, then spray,then pull that tape off and masking and then have to re tape that same edge to shoot the saddle.

[MARTINSR]

BE SURE TO READ THIS THREAD!

> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=746922


No really, if you are painting in pieces be sure to read that thread.


Brian

[msg]

Brian, Im the same guy youve helped in that thread

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by msg

Brian, Im the same guy youve helped in that thread

Ohhhh, did you read it?

Brian

[msg]

Yes sir, and re read it a few times. I'll follow up with you there...sorry to high jack the thread 72step

[msg]

Since it might help others to know who find this thread, what is the best fine line tape to get..width as well for masking off the top of the cab with its bends and curves, fleetside stripe, and tailgate lettering?

I assume its the 3M 218 like below? Does the smaller width help like a 1/8"?

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Fine-L...ustomerReviews

I have plenty of this around but from what Im reading here not to trust it..this so?

https://www.amazon.com/3M-06652-Auto.../dp/B000FP8HFK

[72HuggerK20]

I'd probably use regular green masking tape for everything. I've only ever needed two widths as well. 3/4" and 1 1/2". I tried fine line tape on tailgate letters and found that just taping them with the regular stuff and cutting it with a nice sharp razor blade works best. Have to be careful not to press too hard, you just want to score the tape. 3/4" masking tape is actually very good at making gradual bends as well.