350 cylinder head dilemma, rebuild or replace?

[s10mk]

Hi everyone, the original 350 engine in my 72 c20 is going to need an overhaul and I'm gonna do it this winter. I'm just going to do a basic hone, ring, and bearing on the block. But I'm not sure what to do with my heads. I have at least one burnt exhuast valve, so at a minimum, I would get the heads decked, valve job, and new guides.

But I'm debating on whether or not to put money in the old heads, or just buy new heads.
Such as the summit racing house brand heads, which I believe are made by world products.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-152123

Or I could buy vortec heads which flow a lot better than the summit hrads, but then I would also need a new intake (edelbrock 2116), an electric choke conversion, and center to perimiter bolt valve cover adapters.

What are your thoughts? Or any head choices I should look at? As far as my goals, I'm not looking to build a ton of power, I just want to wake up the old 350. for example, when I rebuild, I'm going to use the melling mtc1 cam.

[Rickysnickers]

I think you would be money ahead just getting the ones you listed. It all comes down to how much $ you want to spend, but isn't that always the case?

[mattfranklin]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

I think you would be money ahead just getting the ones you listed. It all comes down to how much $ you want to spend, but isn't that always the case?

x2
I had different constraints on my project (period correct 1970 Corvette heads), but I was so tempted by the deal on the Summit heads. I wound up spending $1500, where I could have had the Summit ones delivered to my doorstep for less than half the price.

[68gmsee]

If your engine is high mileage (on these engines anything above 100K) I'd consider reworking the bottom also. I did the same on the engine of my 69 with about 120K and because of the increased compression it developed slight knocking while idling. Still ran okay except for the annoying knocking.

I guess it depends on how much work and $'s you want to put in it.

[rpmerf]

Keep an eye out on Craigslist. Picked up a set of rebuilt heads for $250 for the pair.

Vortec seems like a good bang for the buck upgrade. Especially if you can hit up a junkyard and grab the heads, valve covers, assorted hardware. Might not even need a rebuild.

[s10mk]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

If your engine is high mileage (on these engines anything above 100K) I'd consider reworking the bottom also. I did the same on the engine of my 69 with about 120K and because of the increased compression it developed slight knocking while idling. Still ran okay except for the annoying knocking.

I guess it depends on how much work and $'s you want to put in it.

My truck actually only has, relatively speaking, 70k miles. But it is still just about wore out, low compression on a few cylinders and at least one burnt exhuast valve. My entire truck is really nice and original, and the engine is numbers matching. So I would like to at least keep the original short block, but ultimately the bottom end will get whatever is needed. But that all remains to be seen until I can get it opened up. But with the heads, I feel like I can keep the truck and engine original and numbers matching(sort of anyway) while swaping to a better head. Or at least that's what I'm tempted to do.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by s10mk

My truck actually only has, relatively speaking, 70k miles. But it is still just about wore out, low compression on a few cylinders and at least one burnt exhuast valve. My entire truck is really nice and original, and the engine is numbers matching.......

I hear you trying to keep it as original as possible. I tried the same on my 68 with 250 three speed manual but at over 50 yrs old it's hard to do. I have the original block and head but added power steering and power brakes so technically it's not stock. I also got tired of the non synchronized tranny so I put in a synchronized one. About all one can do these days is to try to keep the body and inside the cab as original as possible.

Btw: I was generous when I said over 100K because I agree that a lot of this vintage engines were pretty well worn at above 70K.

[garyd1961]

My truck isn't much to look at but I was always proud of the fact that it was 99% original. Finally after about 10 or 12 years of driving the motor just couldn't do it any more. I was thinking of rebuilding it to back to factory specs but after spending a bunch of money rebuilding another motor that didn't turn out so good I decided on a GM vortec crate motor. I think it was one of the best decisions I ever made.
I still got the look of the old style 350 but with all the up to date stuff like vortec heads, roller cam, one piece rear main seal in motor that should run 250,000 without any problems. For around $2000 you can't beat it.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by garyd1961

My truck isn't much to look at but I was always proud of the fact that it was 99% original. Finally after about 10 or 12 years of driving the motor just couldn't do it any more. I was thinking of rebuilding it to back to factory specs but after spending a bunch of money rebuilding another motor that didn't turn out so good I decided on a GM vortec crate motor. I think it was one of the best decisions I ever made.
I still got the look of the old style 350 but with all the up to date stuff like vortec heads, roller cam, one piece rear main seal in motor that should run 250,000 without any problems. For around $2000 you can't beat it.

Definitely worth considering. You might plan to hone and re-ring it, but don't be surprised if you end up needing a bunch of machine work, which can add up quickly.

[s10mk]

Originally Posted by truckster

Definitely worth considering. You might plan to hone and re-ring it, but don't be surprised if you end up needing a bunch of machine work, which can add up quickly.

All very good advice guys! I'm a little stubborn about keeping my original engine, or at least keep it original appearing, but I wont be foolish about it either. I don't mind doing a hone and ring, but if I need an overbore, resized rods, turned crank, at that point in gonna throw in the towel and buy a new engine.

And I agree, the L-31r (350 vortec) is the best deal going as far as crate engines go. If I need a new engine, it will either be that one, or the old standby 260hp goodwrench 350.