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Old 11-19-2016, 02:31 AM   #26
SonomaComa
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet View Post
Yes this is correct, the color of the wires may vary but their purpose is the same. On the stock trucks with coils there are two sources for ignition.
The wire off the ignition switch (pink) that runs to the firewall block inside the cab, and the wire from the starter terminal that joins it after it comes through the firewall block.

When the wire from the ignition comes through the firewall block it changes to a special resistance wire that drops the ignition switch voltage down from 12 volts to around 8 volts to protect the coil during normal running.

This is enough for a good spark once the engine fires but more is needed for starting. This is where the wire from the starter comes in.

When the solenoid engages it acts as a relay to connect the large starter cable voltage directly from the battery, to the other wire in the circuit. This sends a full 12 volts to the ignition coil, to provide a hotter spark during cranking.Once the starter disengages, it breaks the circuit and the ignition current reverts back to the resistance wire from the firewall block.

In the original harness the resistance wire was a cloth covered wire colored orange/white/ and purple.


Attachment 1445421




When GM went to the HEI ignition they needed a full 12 volts to the coil anytime the ignition was on. They simply removed the resistor wire from the circuit and ran the ignition straight to the HEI coil distributor, eliminating the wire from the starter.




Yes I know and we are here to help with those.



I recently acquired a 69 Chevy C20 with an HEI already installed. One day it wouldn't start, the bendix would kick out but wouldn't turn over. I went to change the starter and didn't know what that yellow wire connected to the 'R' terminal was for. I traced it back to that white colored cloth wire you have in the picture.
That cloth wire does not go into the fuse box on the fire wall, it is broken. The green wire you have pictured is melted from the inside out, I traced it to a sensor in the block on the driver's side. I am wondering what happened.
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Old 11-19-2016, 03:18 AM   #27
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

The cloth covered wire is the ignition wire from the key switch to the coil (OEM)
It comes into the cab through the firewall terminal block behind the fuse panel and becomes a pink wire which runs to the key switch after teeing with two other pink wires as shown in the first diagram and then the second.

The green wire is the temperature sending wire which goes to the key switch if you have the idiot light dash, and then to the dash cluster to the no. 5 pin on the cluster plug. If you do not have the idiot light dash but have the gauge dash then the green wire goes to pin 6 on the cluster plug and then to the temperature gauge in the dash. It sounds like this wire may be shorted to a hot wire at some point since it is grounded through the sender to the engine block.

Look at the two diagrams and on the lower left you will notice the firewall block and the pink ignition wire coming out of it in the top section. Follow this wire up to the tee and on up it turns right and heads to the ignition switch.

Just to the left of it is the green wire for the temperature sender. and below it in the second diagram. Again this wire goes to the dash cluster plug if you have a gauge dash.


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Ignore the arrows, they point to the brown accessory wire which goes back to the fuse panel to power the turn signal flasher, the wiper switch and the hazard flasher.
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Old 11-19-2016, 04:07 AM   #28
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

Awesome. So I guess I don't need to connect anything to the 'R' terminal on the starter with an HEI distributor then.
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Old 11-19-2016, 08:38 AM   #29
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

Yes that is correct. VV
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Old 11-21-2016, 03:57 AM   #30
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

When re-wiring is it better to use thick strand wire or thin multi strand wire?
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Old 11-21-2016, 01:30 PM   #31
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

Well most of the current runs along the surface of the wires so the more wires you have the more current can travel through the wire. This is not much of a factor in automotive use as long as you use AWG wire designed for vehicles.
The strength factor may come into play where movement can cause broken wires and loss of conductivity.I might use a larger strand in that case but I think I would just go with a larger gauge for less resistance than worry about broken strands. Case in point would be the alternator conversion to 100 amp or higher. Then go from 12 gauge to 10 or 8. JMO.
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Old 11-21-2016, 01:32 PM   #32
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

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VetteVet- You are a fountain of information man..... A geyser of knowledge! LOL!
Hey I'm not just another pretty face you know.
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Old 07-16-2017, 12:17 PM   #33
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

So my 1968 GMC 1500 had the old distributor set up, so I go and do the HEI like I have in countless other cars and trucks I have, I run the HEI from the fuse panel and have power to the coil, but can't seem to get any spark, I rebuilt the distributor with all new parts thinking that was the issue and still nothing, could this be a grounding issue? I'm Stumped and about to just reinstall my old set up with a petronix conversion, and yes I ran a jumper from the battery to also see if that was missed power issue and nothing, any ideas? Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2018, 10:52 AM   #34
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

jumping on this thread for some help.

a bit of background - my son was gifted his great grandfather's 68 C20. i'm working with him to improve reliability and safety. it has decades of mickey mouse work and neglect that i'm working through. it hasnt run since we took ownership. i have a Holley Sniper as part of the upgrades. before i install, i wanted to get the motor to turn over (not start). we havent been successful so far due to purple wire not getting 12v at ignition turn. the harness was trashed so i bought a new one from LMC.

when i pin the yellow and the purple wires without connecting to the starter, i get the following:

yellow - 12v switched. it reads 12v when key is turned to on position.

purple - nothing

i'm just getting started on troubleshooting. i'm not too worried about the purple lacking power. i need to check the NSS and ignition switch.

my concern is around the yellow wire. my understanding is that it receives 12v starter solenoid is engaged. is that correct? any experience here?
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Old 10-26-2018, 08:29 PM   #35
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

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my concern is around the yellow wire. my understanding is that it receives 12v starter solenoid is engaged. is that correct? any experience here?
The yellow wire gets 12v from the large gauge positive cable when the starter solenoid is engaged. This sends a full 12V to the points distributor coil during start. When the key is in the on position and starter solenoid no longer engaged, the resistor wire from the bulkhead connector sends a reduced amount of voltage to the coil. If you have upgraded to an HEI distributor you feed it with a non-resistor wire a full 12V from the bulkhead connector or from a spot on the fuse block that has key-on power, and then you don't need the yellow wire that goes between the starter and coil any more, you can remove it or cut it off and tape it up.

Here is a thread that shows what the resistor wire looks like, and also talks a little about the yellow wire.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=708975
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Old 04-06-2019, 08:37 AM   #36
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

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Originally Posted by Mikestone View Post
Thanks for getting back to me. At this point I've hooked everything up just as it is in the diagram, alternator turned out to actually be a 3 wire and I set it up like everyone has suggested. However.... now when I go to start it I can't get it to fire (I checked the plugs and I have spark. I also have 12 volts at the distributor). Either the purple wire or the main lead to the starter began to smoke after I attempted starting it. I disconnected the purple thinking the connection may be bad, tried again, still smoking.

Thoughts anyone, please and thank you for the help
Any word on why wire was smoking, mine did the same thing and melted completely all most to the metering block. What to do now? Any help would be great.
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Old 05-14-2019, 06:12 PM   #37
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

Still looking for a constant 12 volt with key in RUN position on my OEM 1972 C10. What are the blue and green wires that are labeled #1 & #2 in one of your posted examples? Still trying to marry a 2018 L83 harness with the 1972 key start.
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:25 PM   #38
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

12 volt with key on:
Easiest: replace the points distributor coil resistor wire at the firewall connector. That wire will then have 12V. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=708975
Easy: connect to one of the IGN UNFUSED terminals on the fuse block. If you need that 12V with key on in the engine compartment, you should run the wire through a hole in the firewall with a grommet. Info on fuse block: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=741245

Last edited by dmjlambert; 05-14-2019 at 07:28 PM. Reason: fix link
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Old 05-26-2019, 11:14 AM   #39
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

This thread is incredible. Tons of good info. Hoping for a little advice on wiring my new V8 and electronic ignition distributor. It’s EI but still has an external coil (I’m running a Pertronix with 1.5 ohm resistance). The dist. has 2 wires, red and black, Instructions just say to wire the red/black to the + and - terminals on the coil.

I understand i can get rid of the white braided resistor wire now that I’m not using points anymore, and the purple wire will still go to the starter solenoid,
But I’m not sure how to wire the starter to the coil?

Any info is appreciated.
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Old 05-26-2019, 10:16 PM   #40
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

You don't have to. The Yellow 20 wire from Starter to Coil was for starting up after stopping [at the store, say]. The Resistor wire was heated and thus resistance increased -- to not burn up the points -- but the engine would not start with the 7.5 Volts, so the Starter/Coil line was a bypass for restarting when warmed up.
With HEI [and Pertronix] it's unnecessary, as the coil is always supplied with 12 volts.
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Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 05-26-2019 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 05-27-2019, 02:14 AM   #41
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

Hey Dracko, I'm posting here BC I'm having problems with my PM Inbox.
Here's the message I had to crib by hand onto an envelope so the PM system didn't wipe it out after not letting me send.
"...Hi Dan,
The Pertronix unit works best with a matching Pertronix coil. Ignitor II + Flamethrower II. [Or is it a Hellfire?] EBay vendors are all lying dogs.
Don't leave an Ignitor [I] in the switched ON position for long w/o starting engine. It'll burn out. Ignitor II's are immune.
I ran an Ignitor II on the 292 in my '68 C/10 Stepside for about 7 years, then I had problems at freeway speeds. Whole engine circuit quit at 60 - 65 MPH -- in gear -- engine cold milling -- no spark. I'd have to cut Ign Sw OFF, then ON, slow to 55 - 50 MPH and pop start in 4th gear. [I think that caused some bent exhaust valve spring issues later.]
And always at rush hour with some yuppie jerk uptight on my 6 O'Clock -- wondering why I suddenly slowed down, and using his horn to let me know that I've inconvenienced him.
Could've been the extreme desert heat in Southern AZ.
Could've been the parts sitting on my shop shelf without AC for years before trying it out.
Could've been spiking voltages from a runaway EVR/Alternator.
Worked OK at city traffic speeds, but flunked State Emissions.
IDK?
I emailed a Pertronix' tech rep, and he said 'send it in'. So I did. Never heard back.
I went back to Points for over a year. Glad I did not root out my old Yellow 20 or Resistor wires.
Then I got an HEI unit for my 292 L6. Chinese dud straight out of the box. No good warranty. Left a scathing review on Amazon for "Assault Racing" but the damn chinks only changed the company name. Still selling junk.
I was able to rebuild the L6 billet aluminum HEI distributor body, but now with all AC Delco or other premium US components. Went to a ''low-boy'' remote HEI coil for a Model Year 1977 Chevy C/10 w/ 292 L6. Basically a stock GM HEI.
Working good, except last December, without clue or warning it just shut down in traffic. Downtown and on the way to work of course. Killed a day of work. But it was only the ignition module, a $15 part at any auto parts store.
After a wild goose chase R+R'ing a perfectly good US-made Carter fuel pump for a Korean one -- we found out it was really an ignition gripe. Changed out the Module with the fresh spare from my glove box, and Bang! It started and purred. Up and running once again.
When Pertronix works, they're great. When they don't you're on a long quest for parts.
Cheers,Brian
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Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 05-27-2019 at 02:21 AM.
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:46 PM   #42
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

Haha thanks for scribing that down Brian! it sounds like you have similar luck as me for time and place of breakdowns...except it isn’t nearly as hot and there’s hardly any traffic up here.

I didn’t pay a ton for my distributor from eBay vendor skipwhite, so it might also be Chinese crap, hopefully find out shortly now that I know how to wire the ignition. I ended up with a Pertronix flamethrower 1 , so that’s good to know about not leaving the key on while engines not running. Sounds like I should keep a spare coil and control module in the glovebox. Thanks again for all the help.

Dan

Quote:
Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine View Post
Hey Dracko, I'm posting here BC I'm having problems with my PM Inbox.
Here's the message I had to crib by hand onto an envelope so the PM system didn't wipe it out after not letting me send.
"...Hi Dan,
The Pertronix unit works best with a matching Pertronix coil. Ignitor II + Flamethrower II. [Or is it a Hellfire?] EBay vendors are all lying dogs.
Don't leave an Ignitor [I] in the switched ON position for long w/o starting engine. It'll burn out. Ignitor II's are immune.
I ran an Ignitor II on the 292 in my '68 C/10 Stepside for about 7 years, then I had problems at freeway speeds. Whole engine circuit quit at 60 - 65 MPH -- in gear -- engine cold milling -- no spark. I'd have to cut Ign Sw OFF, then ON, slow to 55 - 50 MPH and pop start in 4th gear. [I think that caused some bent exhaust valve spring issues later.]
And always at rush hour with some yuppie jerk uptight on my 6 O'Clock -- wondering why I suddenly slowed down, and using his horn to let me know that I've inconvenienced him.
Could've been the extreme desert heat in Southern AZ.
Could've been the parts sitting on my shop shelf without AC for years before trying it out.
Could've been spiking voltages from a runaway EVR/Alternator.
Worked OK at city traffic speeds, but flunked State Emissions.
IDK?
I emailed a Pertronix' tech rep, and he said 'send it in'. So I did. Never heard back.
I went back to Points for over a year. Glad I did not root out my old Yellow 20 or Resistor wires.
Then I got an HEI unit for my 292 L6. Chinese dud straight out of the box. No good warranty. Left a scathing review on Amazon for "Assault Racing" but the damn chinks only changed the company name. Still selling junk.
I was able to rebuild the L6 billet aluminum HEI distributor body, but now with all AC Delco or other premium US components. Went to a ''low-boy'' remote HEI coil for a Model Year 1977 Chevy C/10 w/ 292 L6. Basically a stock GM HEI.
Working good, except last December, without clue or warning it just shut down in traffic. Downtown and on the way to work of course. Killed a day of work. But it was only the ignition module, a $15 part at any auto parts store.
After a wild goose chase R+R'ing a perfectly good US-made Carter fuel pump for a Korean one -- we found out it was really an ignition gripe. Changed out the Module with the fresh spare from my glove box, and Bang! It started and purred. Up and running once again.
When Pertronix works, they're great. When they don't you're on a long quest for parts.
Cheers,Brian
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Old 07-04-2019, 04:04 PM   #43
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet View Post
Yes this is correct, the color of the wires may vary but their purpose is the same. On the stock trucks with coils there are two sources for ignition.
The wire off the ignition switch (pink) that runs to the firewall block inside the cab, and the wire from the starter terminal that joins it after it comes through the firewall block.

When the wire from the ignition comes through the firewall block it changes to a special resistance wire that drops the ignition switch voltage down from 12 volts to around 8 volts to protect the coil during normal running.

This is enough for a good spark once the engine fires but more is needed for starting. This is where the wire from the starter comes in.

When the solenoid engages it acts as a relay to connect the large starter cable voltage directly from the battery, to the other wire in the circuit. This sends a full 12 volts to the ignition coil, to provide a hotter spark during cranking.Once the starter disengages, it breaks the circuit and the ignition current reverts back to the resistance wire from the firewall block.

In the original harness the resistance wire was a cloth covered wire colored orange/white/ and purple.


Attachment 1445421




When GM went to the HEI ignition they needed a full 12 volts to the coil anytime the ignition was on. They simply removed the resistor wire from the circuit and ran the ignition straight to the HEI coil distributor, eliminating the wire from the starter.




Yes I know and we are here to help with those.



Hey guys I havent been here in for ever, my truck hasnt run in about 3 yrs and Im not getting spark, so instead of messin around I decided to go to HEI. I have the yellow wire to the coil, and reading here i Need to replace it. Reading through this it talks about connecting to a pink wire coming out of the terminal on the wall, but I cant tell which ones pink. I see this pic numbered 1 and 2.... so Should I run wire from 1 or 2? Also I have an Tach I need to hook to the distributor somehow, any idea which wire I would use to connect that?

Thx in advance, and now that I am working on getting the truck ready for my son when he turns 16 I will be back a lot more!
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Old 08-03-2019, 10:01 AM   #44
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

I think I figured this out, I am going to cut into purple closer to the firewall and run a new wire over to the dist. use that to get 12v to the HEI and see if I can get her to crank. if so I will clean all that up. It looks like the wire to the starter (from the diagrams above) doesn't really do anything.

Cant wait to get her running again, I have missed this truck.
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Old 08-03-2019, 11:19 AM   #45
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

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Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
I think I figured this out, I am going to cut into purple closer to the firewall and run a new wire over to the dist. ....
No, that will not work, the purple wire is not what you need. It is for the starter only. I recommend reading my post above. #38
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Old 08-03-2019, 11:45 AM   #46
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

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No, that will not work, the purple wire is not what you need. It is for the starter only. I recommend reading my post above. #38
will read, its not the purple one, thats thecolor on the diagram. once I got the casing stripped back from the bundle I found it is red..
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Old 08-03-2019, 11:48 AM   #47
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

The colors of the wire match the diagram. Red is also what you don't want, it is always on and not switched.
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Old 08-03-2019, 11:49 AM   #48
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmjlambert View Post
No, that will not work, the purple wire is not what you need. It is for the starter only. I recommend reading my post above. #38
Excellent post, mine is red at the same spot on that terminal. I didn't realize they were on Pins. If I do it that way I dont have to snip the wire and if I did it wrong its ok. I was going to cut into it and use a but connector.
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Old 08-03-2019, 11:54 AM   #49
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmjlambert View Post
The colors of the wire match the diagram. Red is also what you don't want, it is always on and not switched.

Now I am confused because the stock diagram from post 2 on this thread shows purple coming out of the FW block, getting resistance and heading to the coil on Yellow. I am yellow at the coil but on my FW block that same position has a red wire coming out. I can put a volt meter on it and check for voltage at ACC and run position, but I dont want to rob that wire from another system that needs it (although I am not sure what that would be)
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Old 08-03-2019, 11:59 AM   #50
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Re: 68 C10 Yellow wire from firewall to starter/coil.

...
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