79 C10 swap with L92 with 6L90

[MTCK]

I'm no TC guru but if you're going to drive it all the time I would think you would want to be close to stock. I have a 6L80 (I think) and 3.42 rear end gears and my DD leaves pretty hard with the stock 5.3 and tall tires. What rear end are you running. I guess your cam selection has a lot to do with it also. First gear is north of 4:1 and with that light truck I'd think you're just going to make a lot of tire smoke by upping your stall. Nice build.

[68 TT]

If it is anything like the 4L80 then the stock torque converter is a huge HP robbing pile of scrap metal. An aftermarket torque converter is a big improvement in HP to the wheels and gas mileage improves too.

A 2600 to 2800 rpm converter sounds just about right for the lift & duration you have with that cam. It won't like a stock converter at all.

2000 rpm would be the least stall I would put behind an L92 engine with that cam profile. It will be down on torque from a stock cam below that and needs the help getting the truck moving with less power to the wheels off idle.

That cam has pretty similar specs to what I ran in my 427 and your heads will flow pretty close to what a rectangular port big block does if not more. It will really plant you in the seat when you get it to 3000 - 3500 rpm and the torque curve really starts to take off.

[v502]

Originally Posted by MTCK

I'm no TC guru but if you're going to drive it all the time I would think you would want to be close to stock. I have a 6L80 (I think) and 3.42 rear end gears and my DD leaves pretty hard with the stock 5.3 and tall tires. What rear end are you running. I guess your cam selection has a lot to do with it also. First gear is north of 4:1 and with that light truck I'd think you're just going to make a lot of tire smoke by upping your stall. Nice build.

I got 3.08 gears and i not worried about traction issues i solve this problem if i face it later but i just dont want to keep it stock and then wish that i changed it i still want to give the truck a sport feeling without sacrificing being a DD friendly.

Originally Posted by 68 TT

If it is anything like the 4L80 then the stock torque converter is a huge HP robbing pile of scrap metal. An aftermarket torque converter is a big improvement in HP to the wheels and gas mileage improves too.

A 2600 to 2800 rpm converter sounds just about right for the lift & duration you have with that cam. It won't like a stock converter at all.

2000 rpm would be the least stall I would put behind an L92 engine with that cam profile. It will be down on torque from a stock cam below that and needs the help getting the truck moving with less power to the wheels off idle.

That cam has pretty similar specs to what I ran in my 427 and your heads will flow pretty close to what a rectangular port big block does if not more. It will really plant you in the seat when you get it to 3000 - 3500 rpm and the torque curve really starts to take off.

Well i am sure it kind of similar to 4l80e with extra 2 speeds and at first i was thinking about going with 3000 rpm con. cause that where the power band starts but i gave it more thought cause almost all my cars was manual and wasn't familiar with auto's will feel so i called my tuner and he suggested 2600 at least and he explained it to me how the truck will feel so i think 2600 is perfect cuase i want the truck to be DD friendly. I still waiting for his call to find out whats options.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by v502

I got 3.08 gears and i not worried about traction issues i solve this problem if i face it later but i just dont want to keep it stock and then wish that i changed it i still want to give the truck a sport feeling without sacrificing being a DD friendly.

Well i am sure it kind of similar to 4l80e with extra 2 speeds and at first i was thinking about going with 3000 rpm con. cause that where the power band starts but i gave it more thought cause almost all my cars was manual and wasn't familiar with auto's will feel so i called my tuner and he suggested 2600 at least and he explained it to me how the truck will feel so i think 2600 is perfect cuase i want the truck to be DD friendly. I still waiting for his call to find out whats options.

Don't be afraid of a 3000 stall in a daily driver. With the lock-up torque converter the negative side of it is greatly negated. It will really help get that thing moving. Once you hit lock-up speed at part throttle and the converter locks up the stall is irrelevant.

Any more than 3000 is a little high for a daily driver but can be done depending upon how much city driving you do. I started with a 4000 in my 98 Z/28 when it was my weekend toy but changed to a 3000 after I put it back into daily driver status. The 4000 was a bit much for stop & go traffic. It built up too much heat in the trans.

[buckshot305]

Did you have any clearance issues between the trans and trans tunnel?

[v502]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Don't be afraid of a 3000 stall in a daily driver. With the lock-up torque converter the negative side of it is greatly negated. It will really help get that thing moving. Once you hit lock-up speed at part throttle and the converter locks up the stall is irrelevant.

Any more than 3000 is a little high for a daily driver but can be done depending upon how much city driving you do. I started with a 4000 in my 98 Z/28 when it was my weekend toy but changed to a 3000 after I put it back into daily driver status. The 4000 was a bit much for stop & go traffic. It built up too much heat in the trans.

I have decided not to put in a torque converter for now cause its $1200 for that trans so i want make sure its the right one. So i keep it stock and get a feel out of it before i spend that kind of money.


buckshot305 The transmission was kind of big but if fits fine if u sat it little bit lower trying to raise the transmission anymore than that will need you need to to cut the trans tunnel.


Update my engine is going in for the LAST TIME I pretty excited it be done hopefully around a week or 2

[bigdnew]

that looks so good.

[v502]

Originally Posted by bigdnew

that looks so good.

Thanks Man we just wrapping up.

[STOCKISH]

Looking great man. Cant wait to see it fire.

[Pyrotechnic]

I know old school 3 speeds and especially powerglides rely on a loose converter to work their magic, but I'm thinking these new 6 speeds and the way the ratios are, you could get away with a tighter converter than normal.

For example a Turbo 350 has a 2.52 first gear, but the new 6 speeds have a 4.027 first gear. With 3.08 gears, the TH350 has a 7.63:1 starting line ratio, and the 6 speed has a 12.4:1 starting line ratio. To get the same starting line ratio, the Turbo 350 would have to run a ~5.51 rear end gear!

In *theory* the 6 speed and stock converter would feel much better than a 3 speed and stock converter, just because of the more ideal gearing.

[nlped]

So cool! This thing is going to be amazing!

[v502]

Thanks guys for nice compliments.

Although i got bad news that changes my whole game plan.
I planned to build this truck not for me but actually for my dad as a gift cause he loves old truck style but hates the reliability issues that they come with "i mean old school carburetors and 100 F weather that's really dusty" My plan was to send the truck to Dubai next winter as surprise gift. The point is that in Dubai anything that happens to actual frame of any type of crack or cut it prevents the car from registering it and driving it legally it considered waste and unsafe which i think its BS

The shop found out that there is a crack on the frame where the power steering bolts on they told me its problem known with these trucks I don't know is it true anyhow the shop told me they try to fix it and work there best to make it look like it came from factory that way.


Here the pic's

[menace121978]

that is a very common problem. mine has a hair line crack that i found after the fresh paint. there is a 4 wheel drive company that makes a brace that just bolts on after they fix it. its pretty cheap. i'll try and find the link

[Cherub]

man sorry to hear that.

[68 TT]

No point in weld repairing a high stress area then grinding it all down to try to make it look unmodified. It will be weaker than stock and fail again shortly. I had this problem with a 70 Chevelle. It kept cracking even when stress relieved and annealed. The metal in the area was just fatigued and needed replaced. I got another frame an never had a problem again.

Your best bet is to find a clean frame for sale or a truck that needs work and swap frames out. As long as you have the title for the donor any check of the partial VIN numbers will be OK as you have proof of ownership of both trucks.

http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/1637692804.html

I'm sure there are plenty more closer to home for you in the Portland area.

You are going to spend a lot of money transporting this truck to your dad. It would be a shame to have it black listed over $700 worth of parts.

[MTCK]

I think this will fix you up. Their crossover steering kit uses a 2wd steering box so I think it would work...

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

Good luck.

[v502]

Originally Posted by menace121978

that is a very common problem. mine has a hair line crack that i found after the fresh paint. there is a 4 wheel drive company that makes a brace that just bolts on after they fix it. its pretty cheap. i'll try and find the link

Sucks i didn't know that it was a common problem in these truck i would looked for it after the engine was out and fixed it up. Its hair line crack and it was fixed by the old owner if u see in the pics welds on outside and weld bead under the frame was done by the other owner. All my guy did was worked from the inside the frame and enforced it from inside with plate metals. There almost double the thickness now but when i took the pics he was just starting and i trust his expertise with this kind work so i hoping for the best I freaked out at first but he told me it be fine and that's its never going to be a problem again but i am going to show him the brace tomm and see what he says if add that over his work for the extra insurance.

Originally Posted by 68 TT

No point in weld repairing a high stress area then grinding it all down to try to make it look unmodified. It will be weaker than stock and fail again shortly. I had this problem with a 70 Chevelle. It kept cracking even when stress relieved and annealed. The metal in the area was just fatigued and needed replaced. I got another frame an never had a problem again.

Your best bet is to find a clean frame for sale or a truck that needs work and swap frames out. As long as you have the title for the donor any check of the partial VIN numbers will be OK as you have proof of ownership of both trucks.

http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/1637692804.html

I'm sure there are plenty more closer to home for you in the Portland area.

You are going to spend a lot of money transporting this truck to your dad. It would be a shame to have it black listed over $700 worth of parts.

Thanks 68TT for the advice but i cost me a lot of money so far i am getting almost broke I am not saying your wrong i would defiantly done that if i was working on the truck myself but i doing all the work at a shop that charges me $50 an hour but he is excellent shop with more than 25+ in machine work and welding. I couldn't work on the truck my self when i bought it cause i didn't have appropriate place or a garage and not enough expertise on welding and didn't own that much tools. So this is the best route according to my budget and i sure it be fine if i get the brace over whats work was done already.

Originally Posted by MTCK

I think this will fix you up. Their crossover steering kit uses a 2wd steering box so I think it would work...

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

Good luck.

Thanks a lot MTCK I giving them a call tomm.

[bigdnew]

What model a/c compressor do you have? i bought the bracket but not the compressor.

[v502]

Originally Posted by bigdnew

What model a/c compressor do you have? i bought the bracket but not the compressor.

I think its a Sanden 508 they are popular in hot-rods, they got different applications for different belt style.

[v502]

ITS ALIVE

YouTube- 1979 C10 6.2 & 6 Speed Auto swap

I am extremely happy that we got it running but not its not perfect we have couple issues to fix before its gets on the road.

1. The fan isn't working right we need a bigger fuse holder cause its keeps burning the fuse. We are running 30amp mini fuse now and its not handling the spike.

2. The Tach isn't working yet but everything is hooked up we still need to check on that.

2. The truck has corvette tune in it didn't start with truck tune so we have to take it to tuner shop to to figure it out and get it on the Dyno.

4. The Transmission seems to work fine but the corvette tune doesn't like it.
We though that we have P R N D 2 1 but what we have right now is P R N D D D The Transmission has a mind of its own. We check on that later or maybe it get fixed when we get an esclade tune so we have to wait and see.

So on Monday the truck will be driven to body shop which is 2 blocks away to put the hood and fenders back on the truck and hopefully sometime next week we take it to the tuner shop we have space for my truck.

[flamingbig10]

nice, sounds good

[87 chevy silverado]

sorry to still the tread but i figured u would like to something worse than yours.
it could be worse it could look like mine did when i got my truck
this is before any work

the back side of in right before completion

then i put in a reinforce beam

i gust wont u to see that i could be worse. an sorry for stealing the tread. nice truck. btw

[menace121978]

right on man! sounded awesome!

[v502]

Originally Posted by flamingbig10

nice, sounds good

Thanks Flamingbig

Originally Posted by 87 chevy silverado

sorry to still the tread but i figured u would like to something worse than yours.
it could be worse it could look like mine did when i got my truck
this is before any work
i gust wont u to see that i could be worse. an sorry for stealing the tread. nice truck. btw

Well i already took care of it.

Originally Posted by menace121978

right on man! sounded awesome!

Thanks Menace I cant explain the excitement I wish you get your truck on the road soon

[87chevy.com]

the fans probally will need a maxi fuse... the mini fuses are not up to the job.
as far as the tach, i forgot what wire i tapped into, but mine works on i believe 4cyl mode... 8cyl mode doesnt work, and i think 6cyl mode isnt accurate.. dude i love the way the exhuast looks... ive been wanting to re re redo my exhuast but havnt had the modivation.. might have just found it. ... looking at your truck makes me wish i didnt pass up a 700$ 6.2L with no accessories... i told they guy nahhh like a fool...