Nothing when turning the key

[NJ C10 Guy]

SBC 350
mech fuel pump
HEI Distributor
Powermaster 100A alternator
Stock starter

So I have had some charging issues lately with my sbc 350 in my '86. The battery would die after sitting, even after running the truck for a while. I was trying to narrow down what my issues could be yesterday and I looked up how to test the alternator. I have a junky multimeter from HF that I'm pretty sure doesn't work correctly because it's never given me a correct reading on any battery I've ever tested.

I tried the old method, which I now know is no good, of taking the negative terminal off while the truck is running. The truck still ran fine which made me think the alternator isn't the problem. I then hooked the negative back up while the truck was running.

Now when I get in and turn the key, nothing happens. It's like the battery is completely dead or a fuse is blown, even though my radio, headlights, etc. all work fine. I checked the fuses and didn't see any blown, but I'll check again. The gauge shows that the battery is charged (I charged it overnight).

What could it be? I'm thinking it could be the starter, but there's nothing that points to it because it worked perfectly fine before. I never touched my grounds, which are tight, minus the negative terminal which I took off and reconnected after shutting the truck down to make sure it was tight.

[geezer#99]

Neutral safety switch.
Usually found in 'no man's land' on top of the steering column close to the firewall.

[NJ C10 Guy]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Neutral safety switch.
Usually found in 'no man's land' on top of the steering column close to the firewall.

I replaced that within the last year. Could the battery being disconnected have messed with it? It was literally like 15 minutes between starts.

[geezer#99]

Turn the key to run, jumper purple wire to big post on starter and if it cranks then you know it's nss related.

[68gmsee]

Does it start easily by jumping the battery or immediately after recharging?

I know you mentioned it ran with battery cable disconnected but did you check for at leat 15 VDC +/- across the pos and neg terminals?

Be sure and check for loose connectors including the battery cables themselves. If you purchase a remote starter switch (about $15) you can wiggle cables while trying to start it.

[NJ C10 Guy]

Ok I got it started. I think it was the starter. I took it off and bench tested it and it seemed to be working OK, but I noticed that the bendix wasn't always coming out and spinning. I chalked it up to a connectivity issue on my end.

I put the starter back in and accidentally had the positive and start wires touching so when I went to hook up my negative I thought I was going to fire up (scared me for a second lol). I fixed that, hooked up my jumper cables and turned the key, but there wasn't enough charge so it slow cranked. Waited a couple minutes, then turned the key and nothing at all. Got out, banged the starter with a wrench, got in and it fired up.

I took off my powermaster torque xs starter because I am going to sell it, but I might just throw it back until I do my LS swap. Thanks for the suggestions all. I'm glad it turned out to be something minor.

[Dead Parrot]

A starter that fails to turn then turns fine when banged can be worn brushes. About a $5 fix to replace starter brushes.

[NJ C10 Guy]

Well, it turns out I was wrong. I swapped out the starter, hooked up the jumper cables, turned the key and nothing, just like before. I don't have a clue what it could be at this point. If the battery was toast wouldn't it at least crank when hooked up? It's showing just shy of 13v on the gauge when hooked up (my multimeter is trash so I have no way to test voltage).

I haven't touched my grounds and they are all solid, minus the negative terminal and I cleaned it up with a wire brush so it should be good to go. All other hookups are tight, including grounds. I replaced all fuses the other day, the neutral safety switch is less than a year old and I don't daily drive.

The only thing I can think it possibly the alternator, or a wire going to the starter? I can't imagine I wired the starter incorrectly. It was starting with no problem for a year prior to the issue I had and I never messed with the wiring.

[lil hoodlum]

Just throwing this out there, maybe ignition switch? I have had some that were going out interminently before giving up the ghost for good.

[Dead Parrot]

2nd the ignition switch system. Could be the ignition switch proper, the neutral safety switch, the sector gear, or the metal rack the sector gear engages.

[68gmsee]

You mentioned hooking up the jumper cables and still nothing. You don't even get a click or grunt out of the starter? Does the radio or lights work?

As mentioned above the ignition key could be the problem as well as a defective neutral sw as geezer mentioned. If it's the neutral sw, you should still have lights even if it won't start.

I'd still get a remote starter sw. and see if it will at least turn over bypassing the ignition switch.

[NJ C10 Guy]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

You mentioned hooking up the jumper cables and still nothing. You don't even get a click or grunt out of the starter? Does the radio or lights work?

As mentioned above the ignition key could be the problem as well as a defective neutral sw as geezer mentioned. If it's the neutral sw, you should still have lights even if it won't start.

I'd still get a remote starter sw. and see if it will at least turn over bypassing the ignition switch.

I get absolutely nothing from the starter.

I'm fairly certain i still have radio but i haven't turned it on, so I'll have to check to be sure. I know for sure my wipers still work, so it's not that i have no power at all. Ill look into getting a tenor starter switch. Any suggestions on a cheap decent one?

[68gmsee]

Hand held remote starter switches are usually less than $20. I bought mine locally for about $15 years ago. Any of the local auto parts stores carry them. They come in handy at times for bumping or turning the engine over when working on it.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0191&ppt=C0107

One clip goes on the positive and the other to the s on the solenoid. Leave the ignition key off. If the starter turns the engine over you know the battery is supplying the needed voltage. You will have to back track from there to neutral sw or ignition sw.

[NJ C10 Guy]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

Hand held remote starter switches are usually less than $20. I bought mine locally for about $15 years ago. Any of the local auto parts stores carry them. They come in handy at times for bumping or turning the engine over when working on it.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0191&ppt=C0107

One clip goes on the positive and the other to the s on the solenoid. Leave the ignition key off. If the starter turns the engine over you know the battery is supplying the needed voltage. You will have to back track from there to neutral sw or ignition sw.

Sounds good. Thank you for the help. Ill report back what i find.

[kwmech]

Pull gently on the fusible links at the starter. If one feels like a rubber band, you've found your problem

[GASoline71]

If you have nothing... no start, no radio, no lights, it could be the inline fused wire near the battery that goes to a small "Hot" post on the passenger fender. Then power from that post feeds the fuse block in the truck. Check the inline fuse to see if it's blown.

Gary

[NJ C10 Guy]

I'm beginning to think it's a wiring issue. I messed around a little today and made sure my connections were tight. I hooked up the jumper cables and turned the key and it cranked very slowly (no chance it would start). I waited a little longer, turned the key and nothing again. I thought it might have been the battery so i bought a new one. Hooked it up and still nothing, so I'm pretty sure I can rule out the battery.

The one thing I did notice was that the wire from the positive terminal to the starter was melted on the coating, I assume from somehow coming into contact with the header. It's not burned through and no wires are exposed, but I'm sure they got pretty hot in there. I forgot to grab a remote starter switch, which ill grab when I return the battery I just bought. So I guess I'll replace the wire from the battery as well as the wire with the fusible link, which could have been compromised as well, from the alternator to the starter. Either one of those could cause my issue, correct?

[68gmsee]

One thing you need to be aware of also. Battery cable ends sometimes corrode internally and lose contact with the actual copper wire of the cable causing a high resistance for the starter.

You can't see it by just looking since it's internally and about the only way to be sure is to peel back the rubber outer insulation -or just buy new cables if those are old and look bad.

[Clyde65]

Have you tested the battery? Batteries where I live only last about 30 months and they tend to act like you are describing.

[NJ C10 Guy]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Have you tested the battery? Batteries where I live only last about 30 months and they tend to act like you are describing.

I tried a brand new battery today with the same results.

[NJ C10 Guy]

Update: I put in a new ignition switch and nothing changed. I also cut out the melted rubber part of the positive cable running to the starter (the copper was still in good shape) and replaced the end going to the starter. I checked my grounds, and cleaned up where applicable.

There is no fusible link coming off my positive cable from the battery, so that couldn't have gone bad. The fusible links going to the starter are nice and tight (not like a rubber band when i pull on them), but they are the next things I need to replace, in case they were compromised by heat. I didn't get a remote starter switch yet, but I am going to get one or borrow one from a buddy. I am also going to go ahead and replace the battery because it hasn't been holding a charge lately (just prior to this whole mess happening). The only thing deterring me from thinking it's the battery is that I bought a new one and hooked it up and nothing changed with the symptoms I am having.

[68gmsee]

So you didn't get a hand held remote starter sw? It can save a lot of work.

If after hooking it up the starter turns the engine over it lets you know voltage is getting to the starter from the battery. At this time you will know the problem is between ignition sw and starter.

Another necessity with your problem is a volt/ohm meter to isolate.

[NJ C10 Guy]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

So you didn't get a hand held remote starter sw? It can save a lot of work.

If after hooking it up the starter turns the engine over it lets you know voltage is getting to the starter from the battery. At this time you will know the problem is between ignition sw and starter.

Another necessity with your problem is a volt/ohm meter to isolate.

Well I bought a new battery last night and picked up a remote starter switch. Connected the new battery and....nothing. Swapped out the positive cable ogin to the starter with a brand new cable as well. Hooked up the starter switch and pushed the button and...nothing. So I bench tested both starters I have and unless I'm not doing it right, they're both no good. One of them gives me nothing when I bridge the gap with a screwdriver and the other sparks but the bendix doesnt move or spin.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by NJ C10 Guy

Well I bought a new battery last night and picked up a remote starter switch. Connected the new battery and....nothing. Swapped out the positive cable ogin to the starter with a brand new cable as well. Hooked up the starter switch and pushed the button and...nothing. So I bench tested both starters I have and unless I'm not doing it right, they're both no good. One of them gives me nothing when I bridge the gap with a screwdriver and the other sparks but the bendix doesnt move or spin.

Wow, that's not good. Two starters doing the same thing. I'd be tempted to switch supplier or brand.

If you bridged the gap between the 12vdc post and "S" (you can also connect the remote starter on those points) and nothing happened, the solenoid could be the problem. If in doubt of the connections for bench testing look at the site below. It's pretty straight forward.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-...r-bench-test-1

[NJ C10 Guy]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

Wow, that's not good. Two starters doing the same thing. I'd be tempted to switch supplier or brand.

If you bridged the gap between the 12vdc post and "S" (you can also connect the remote starter on those points) and nothing happened, the solenoid could be the problem. If in doubt of the connections for bench testing look at the site below. It's pretty straight forward.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-...r-bench-test-1

I did it right, the only thing is that I used a brand new battery. What's the reason for not using a brand new battery? I can always take them to pep boys, advance, auto zone, etc. for to confirm because they're all close by.