Rust particles in Carb & Tank - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

RodC · 09-03-2002, 09:50 PM

Well I just rebulit my carb, (Quadrajet) There was a thin layer of rust particles in it. I have seen worse. The former owner had never filled the tank past half full because the gas cap leaked, (gee that's a hard fix) so I bet the top half of the tank is rusted. any whoo, my questions:

The filter that was in the carb was one of those plastic screen types, if there was a paper one in there would it have stopped more?

Should I Put a bigger filter some where else, if so where is a good location?

Should I replace the tank, or would a good filter and changing it a lot work.

I'm hope'n that someone else has been here before.

weasel29gm · 09-03-2002, 10:41 PM

Rod , there was a story in a truck mag on the that subject ,I''lltry to find it and let you know ASAP. My filler neck is kind of rusty where it has set for long so I'm goin' take it out and blow and clean it the best I can, I think there is some stuff that helps to clean a tank. I'm goin' to use a in- line filter plus the carb. one. BTWgood to post to a fellow MOUNTAINEER!!!!!!!!! Watch out BADGERS & HOKIES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Longhorn Man · 09-03-2002, 10:45 PM

I have been running the same fuel tank since 98, (yeah, in two diffirant trucks) and I am still replacing my furle filters (2 of them) every month. This is after dumping and flushing it a couple times too.
Take your tank to a radiater shop They can fox it and reseal it.
Replacement tanks are thinner than stock, and bulge from the weight of the fuel...junk.

busterwivell · 09-03-2002, 10:54 PM

I'm doing the poly tank switch soon, if you need a clean, in cab tank, let me know.

gizmo · 09-03-2002, 11:21 PM

If you need a good tank email me and we canwork something out. I am near Cumberland, Maryland which isn't too far away from you. I have what you need.

RodC · 09-04-2002, 07:29 AM

Thanks for the replies, I have been here a while and not seen any other WV folks.

Thanks for the offers on the tanks, I may be getting back to you after I try a better filter for a while.

Where is a good location for an additional filter?

longhornmail, do you have to remove your furle with a brill or will a ruedrver work?

johnnyp · 09-04-2002, 09:16 AM

Haven't personally used it, but have heard good reports on the tank sealer sold my POR-15. Might want to give it a look. It does require you remove the tank, but doing the job once may be less of a hassle than changing filters all the time.

71Custom10 · 09-04-2002, 04:23 PM

There's piece of rubber fuel hose that connects the hard line on the frame to the hard line that comes through the cab floor. That's where I put mine. I was having a problem with all that rust clogging up the fuel pump. It wouldn't hurt to put one between the fuel pump and the carb also. Andrew

Als454 · 09-04-2002, 08:39 PM

Just dealt with the same problem.
Be adviced if your tank is behind the seat and you put the filter between the tank and the fuel pump you can't remove it without draining the tank. I bought an inline purolator filter with a glass bowl and put it between the fuel pump and carb. Hope this helps

jay-dawg · 09-04-2002, 09:04 PM

my dad had installed an inline filter between the pump and the carb. It is easy to drain because it is at a point where it starts to slope down into the carb. Hope this helps,
Jay

busterwivell · 09-04-2002, 09:46 PM

It's easy to put your filter in line in any rubber hose, and change them easily. Get two needle nose vice grips, clamp the rubber line on each end, and change away.

71Custom10 · 09-05-2002, 12:38 AM

To keep from draining the tank I just slide the clamp up the hose and tighten it until the new filter is in. Been doing that for 3 years now, never had a problem.

ChevLoRay · 09-05-2002, 07:26 AM

I have always installed in-line fuel filters, just ahead of the carburetor. I'm using one of those that has the glass housing and some kind of synthetic filter element. It can be disassembled and cleaned, then re-installed. You can tell if it is dirty, or not, just by looking through the glass. Use small worm-drive hose clamps, or the spring-type that grips the hose. No biggee.

As for cleaning the gas tank...the old school way is to remove the tank, empty it out then add a few rocks through the opening. Shake the tank and the rocks will break the rust loose from the tank, which will allow you to flush the tank and rinse out the rust. When you are satisfied that the tank is as clean as you can get it, and (assuming it has no holes) the rocks have been removed from the tank, coat the inside of the tank with a gas tank sealer. It can be from POR-15, or from Hirsch. Either way, you'll be sealing it for future use. It may take a few days to dry, depending on conditions and such.

If this sounds like too much work, and you have money to spare, get a new tank or have a radiator shop do it for you. I think you'll find that radiator shops may be leery of gas tanks. The vapors in the tanks should be aired, to remove the possibility of them igniting. Last time I looked, most radiator shops use acetylene torches for soldering. The flame of the torch, in the presence of the gasoline vapors in the tank will create a memorable event, especially if you are close! It will also create a need for a new tank.

Bill72BB · 09-05-2002, 11:54 AM

Common problem that rust ,got tired of changing filters every 4-6 months ,put a inline filter and mounted to fender well .

Bill

**68Custom** · 09-05-2002, 01:04 PM

Im considering having my gas tank boiled out. Ive heard that does the job as well. Anyone done this with our style? I have an uncle with a 56 F*rd and he had his boiled out. It turned out pretty good i thought... still debating

Aaron

Longhorn Man · 09-05-2002, 04:51 PM

Our radiater shop whwere I work deals with fuel tanks all the time. They say its no big deal.

Gene · 09-05-2002, 05:01 PM

I have been having this same problem, I had a filter under the cab where the hard line transfers to the rubber line, the filter itself which was metal is where my rust was coming from. I bypassed it(and by the way you can take the line loose from the tank where they connect and it will keep the gas from going everywhere) and I am now just running the clear filter with replaceable elements on my edelbrock carb. I thought my tank was rusted but after removing it and inspecting it I found that it was the metal (cheapo) filter...

JD72 · 09-05-2002, 06:56 PM

Yeh I would try the radiator shop to boil and then use the tank sealer on it. My filter is between the pump and carb and you could put another between the pump and tank. Cut the hard line put a rubber hose with bolt on the end cut to size you need and you dont have to drain tank.

weasel29gm · 09-06-2002, 11:40 PM

Hey Rod, was out in garage and found the mag, the story was not as good as I thought. Dealt with startin' a truck thats been sittin' a long time. Didn't have the info on the tank sorry!!!!! Weasel

PanelDeland · 09-07-2002, 11:01 AM

A brass ball valve,2 brass hose barbs, and 2 hose clamps.Not only will this give you an easier way to change filters it can be used as a theft deterent if you put it behind the seat but in an area where you can reach the valve.I would use at least a 3/8 valve and 3/8 thread X whatever your fuel line is for the hose barbs.

09-03-2002, 09:50 PM	#1
RodC Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Fairmont WV Posts: 304	Rust particles in Carb & Tank Well I just rebulit my carb, (Quadrajet) There was a thin layer of rust particles in it. I have seen worse. The former owner had never filled the tank past half full because the gas cap leaked, (gee that's a hard fix) so I bet the top half of the tank is rusted. any whoo, my questions: The filter that was in the carb was one of those plastic screen types, if there was a paper one in there would it have stopped more? Should I Put a bigger filter some where else, if so where is a good location? Should I replace the tank, or would a good filter and changing it a lot work. I'm hope'n that someone else has been here before. __________________ Rod Childers '71 C10 Stepside

09-03-2002, 10:41 PM	#2
weasel29gm SLOW BUT SURE,BUT CLOSER Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: eleanor wv usa Posts: 3,091	Rod , there was a story in a truck mag on the that subject ,I''lltry to find it and let you know ASAP. My filler neck is kind of rusty where it has set for long so I'm goin' take it out and blow and clean it the best I can, I think there is some stuff that helps to clean a tank. I'm goin' to use a in- line filter plus the carb. one. BTWgood to post to a fellow MOUNTAINEER!!!!!!!!! Watch out BADGERS & HOKIES !!!!!!!!!!!!!! __________________ 69 C-10, OWNED 35YRS... 350 over 30, 350 Turbo, 3:73 Posi P/S, P/B Black with red and black int. ''LOVE THESE OLD ''TRUCKS.......

09-03-2002, 10:54 PM	#4
busterwivell Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA Posts: 2,033	I'm doing the poly tank switch soon, if you need a clean, in cab tank, let me know. __________________ Bill - Tucson, AZ 47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan 56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan 66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed 71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn 86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold) 01 Chevrolet Tahoe IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com

09-03-2002, 11:21 PM	#5
gizmo 100% Beefcake Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: LaVale, Maryland Posts: 246	RodC If you need a good tank email me and we canwork something out. I am near Cumberland, Maryland which isn't too far away from you. I have what you need. __________________ 1969 C10,350,4:11 posi, Fast Enough 1984 Monte Carlo SS 1987 Chevy S-10, 355 w/150 Shot of Nitrous, Fun,Fun 1938 Nash Lafayette 1956 MG Magnette

09-04-2002, 07:29 AM	#6
RodC Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Fairmont WV Posts: 304	Thanks for the replies, I have been here a while and not seen any other WV folks. Thanks for the offers on the tanks, I may be getting back to you after I try a better filter for a while. Where is a good location for an additional filter? longhornmail, do you have to remove your furle with a brill or will a ruedrver work? __________________ Rod Childers '71 C10 Stepside

09-03-2002, 10:45 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I have been running the same fuel tank since 98, (yeah, in two diffirant trucks) and I am still replacing my furle filters (2 of them) every month. This is after dumping and flushing it a couple times too. Take your tank to a radiater shop They can fox it and reseal it. Replacement tanks are thinner than stock, and bulge from the weight of the fuel...junk.

09-04-2002, 09:16 AM	#7
johnnyp Keepin' It Stock Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Grand Island, Nebraska, USA Posts: 554	Haven't personally used it, but have heard good reports on the tank sealer sold my POR-15. Might want to give it a look. It does require you remove the tank, but doing the job once may be less of a hassle than changing filters all the time. __________________ 72 Sierra Grande - Maych Forget about "do it right the first time". Do it wrong the first time to learn how, then do it right the second time.

09-04-2002, 04:23 PM	#8
71Custom10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Temple, Texas Posts: 325	There's piece of rubber fuel hose that connects the hard line on the frame to the hard line that comes through the cab floor. That's where I put mine. I was having a problem with all that rust clogging up the fuel pump. It wouldn't hurt to put one between the fuel pump and the carb also. Andrew __________________ '67 Chevy Longbed Fleetside - Daily Driver(For Now) '72 Cheyene Longbed Fleetside-Daily Driver Best Towing Service Last edited by 71Custom10; 09-04-2002 at 04:26 PM.

09-04-2002, 08:39 PM	#9
Als454 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Vienna, Ohio, USA Posts: 259	Just dealt with the same problem. Be adviced if your tank is behind the seat and you put the filter between the tank and the fuel pump you can't remove it without draining the tank. I bought an inline purolator filter with a glass bowl and put it between the fuel pump and carb. Hope this helps __________________ 72 Chevy A/C P/B P/S Tilt 454 Engine 400 TCI Trans C30 Frame C10 Suspension Short Wheel Base (Dually)

09-04-2002, 09:04 PM	#10
jay-dawg chevelito Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Honolulu, HI USA Posts: 1,609	my dad had installed an inline filter between the pump and the carb. It is easy to drain because it is at a point where it starts to slope down into the carb. Hope this helps, Jay __________________ New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI

09-04-2002, 09:46 PM	#11
busterwivell Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA Posts: 2,033	It's easy to put your filter in line in any rubber hose, and change them easily. Get two needle nose vice grips, clamp the rubber line on each end, and change away. __________________ Bill - Tucson, AZ 47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan 56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan 66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed 71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn 86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold) 01 Chevrolet Tahoe IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com

09-05-2002, 12:38 AM	#12
71Custom10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Temple, Texas Posts: 325	To keep from draining the tank I just slide the clamp up the hose and tighten it until the new filter is in. Been doing that for 3 years now, never had a problem. __________________ '67 Chevy Longbed Fleetside - Daily Driver(For Now) '72 Cheyene Longbed Fleetside-Daily Driver Best Towing Service

09-05-2002, 07:26 AM	#13
ChevLoRay Old Skool Club Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas" Posts: 10,880	I have always installed in-line fuel filters, just ahead of the carburetor. I'm using one of those that has the glass housing and some kind of synthetic filter element. It can be disassembled and cleaned, then re-installed. You can tell if it is dirty, or not, just by looking through the glass. Use small worm-drive hose clamps, or the spring-type that grips the hose. No biggee. As for cleaning the gas tank...the old school way is to remove the tank, empty it out then add a few rocks through the opening. Shake the tank and the rocks will break the rust loose from the tank, which will allow you to flush the tank and rinse out the rust. When you are satisfied that the tank is as clean as you can get it, and (assuming it has no holes) the rocks have been removed from the tank, coat the inside of the tank with a gas tank sealer. It can be from POR-15, or from Hirsch. Either way, you'll be sealing it for future use. It may take a few days to dry, depending on conditions and such. If this sounds like too much work, and you have money to spare, get a new tank or have a radiator shop do it for you. I think you'll find that radiator shops may be leery of gas tanks. The vapors in the tanks should be aired, to remove the possibility of them igniting. Last time I looked, most radiator shops use acetylene torches for soldering. The flame of the torch, in the presence of the gasoline vapors in the tank will create a memorable event, especially if you are close! It will also create a need for a new tank. __________________ Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was.

09-05-2002, 11:54 AM	#14
Bill72BB Thats the Hillbilly way Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Torrance,Ca Posts: 5,980	Common problem that rust ,got tired of changing filters every 4-6 months ,put a inline filter and mounted to fender well . Bill Attached Images __________________ BILL Torrance Calif 90504 Member DUF Club Member Old Farts Club 72 3/4ton Custom Camper BB402/400 trans Dynomax Cerama-coat headers , Hei distributor ,Edelbrock 1411 air,ps,pb,leafsprings ,98 chevy 60/40 seat,S10 shoulder belts tilt,3.54 Dana 60 rear. 16" Eagle wheels with LT265/75 16 tires,Gaylord Lid,H4 headlights with 100W relay conversion. " If I knew I was going to live this long I would have taken better care of myself " Marriage changes passion...suddenly you're in bed with a relative. A GUY'S PRAYER.... Lord, I pray for a nympho with huge boobs who owns a liquor store and likes to fish and hunt and has a Harley .Amen ,

09-05-2002, 01:04 PM	#15
68Custom Hammer On! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 473	Im considering having my gas tank boiled out. Ive heard that does the job as well. Anyone done this with our style? I have an uncle with a 56 F*rd and he had his boiled out. It turned out pretty good i thought... still debating Aaron __________________ 1968 C20 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed 1968 K10 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed



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09-05-2002, 04:51 PM	#16
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Our radiater shop whwere I work deals with fuel tanks all the time. They say its no big deal.

09-05-2002, 05:01 PM	#17
Gene Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Muskogee, Oklahoma Posts: 2,914	I have been having this same problem, I had a filter under the cab where the hard line transfers to the rubber line, the filter itself which was metal is where my rust was coming from. I bypassed it(and by the way you can take the line loose from the tank where they connect and it will keep the gas from going everywhere) and I am now just running the clear filter with replaceable elements on my edelbrock carb. I thought my tank was rusted but after removing it and inspecting it I found that it was the metal (cheapo) filter... __________________ 1971 SWB 4X4 Build BOARD MEMBER #5448 BOOMER SOONER!!!!

09-05-2002, 06:56 PM	#18
JD72 WTF Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: loganville, Ga. Posts: 118	Yeh I would try the radiator shop to boil and then use the tank sealer on it. My filter is between the pump and carb and you could put another between the pump and tank. Cut the hard line put a rubber hose with bolt on the end cut to size you need and you dont have to drain tank. __________________ Some people are wise, some people are otherwise. 72 cheyenne primer factory air lowered rallyes with flat caps flowmasters 12 bolt 3.73 350/350 combo needs rockers . Cowl hood installed. 81 Malibu wagon lowered with 17's bright ass yellow and v-6. 71 225 Electra all original 455/4 81 z28

09-06-2002, 11:40 PM	#19
weasel29gm SLOW BUT SURE,BUT CLOSER Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: eleanor wv usa Posts: 3,091	Hey Rod, was out in garage and found the mag, the story was not as good as I thought. Dealt with startin' a truck thats been sittin' a long time. Didn't have the info on the tank sorry!!!!! Weasel __________________ 69 C-10, OWNED 35YRS... 350 over 30, 350 Turbo, 3:73 Posi P/S, P/B Black with red and black int. ''LOVE THESE OLD ''TRUCKS.......

09-07-2002, 11:01 AM	#20
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	A brass ball valve,2 brass hose barbs, and 2 hose clamps.Not only will this give you an easier way to change filters it can be used as a theft deterent if you put it behind the seat but in an area where you can reach the valve.I would use at least a 3/8 valve and 3/8 thread X whatever your fuel line is for the hose barbs. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

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