distributor collar

[jglassjr]

where does this collar go on the distributor?? Im getting myself into a world of bad stuff im afraid! and what holds the distributor tight in the block... nothing I see bolts to the block to hold the distibutor tight.... Im getting abit nervous here

[sack54]

The collar holds dizzy in loosen screw it will slide to top. install dizzy and attach collar to holes in block ,adjust and tighten clamp to dizzy .

[jglassjr]

I guess im missing something here... I dont see where to bolt anything to the block... the collar tightens around the distributor shaft.. the advance/octane tab is held by a bolt, but the collar sits about that...

[jglassjr]

the other hole in the collar is for the vaccuum advance...so im kinda lost

[sack54]

What size motor and year ? Also that bolt in block goes in the oval hole in the collar.
Check this site lot of dizzys to look at.
https://oldgmctrucks.infopop.cc/eve?s=272004236&csra=Y

[mr48chev]

You have to take that bolt out of the block and it goes back in though the slot in the collar in the oval hole that Sack54 mentioned. This really isn't rocket science or that blooming hard.

[duramax55]

you will have to make sure the distibuter goes in exactley where it was or your timming will be way out and will not start Why did you pull it out??

[jglassjr]

spun a rod bearing and had the motor rebuilt.... got it back yesterday, took it for a drive... 35 miles into it, it backfired out the tailpipe and died...coasted to the side of the road. a guy stopped and towed me back home, only about 3 miles away..... this morning I pulled off the valve cover, got 1st cylinder to TDC on intake stroke... popped the distributor cap and the rotor was about 35 degrees before the #1 spark plug terminal..... How does the distributor jump a tooth or 2?? no idea how that could have happened... anyway, took out the dizzy... lined it back up and thru some help with some guys here.. got it started, running poorly but running....of course my timing light doesnt work...so Im headed to town to buy a new one tomorrow.... the engine builder is 3 hours away so Id like to try to do this myself...Im a BBC guy so this str6 stuff is all new to me ... its a 1959 apache

[tmoble]

helluva nice looking truck.

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by jglassjr

this morning I pulled off the valve cover, got 1st cylinder to TDC on intake stroke... popped the distributor cap and the rotor was about 35 degrees before the #1 spark plug terminal..... How does the distributor jump a tooth or 2?? no idea how that could have happened... anyway, took out the dizzy... lined it back up and thru some help with some guys here.. got it started, running poorly but running.

To find TDC, you only need remove #1 spark plug and put your finger over the hole while someone turns it over. This way you will know when it's on the compression stroke as opposed to the exhaust stroke. You will then have to turn the crank by hand to get the piston exactly TDC but you will know it's on the compression stroke. Taking off the valve cover works too, but it's more work and you need to be sure both push rods are not under load. The exhaust valve push rod will be under load if it's on exhaust stroke obviously. If you found the cap 35 degrees from #1 position, it's possible the piston was on exhaust stroke.The distributor cannot jump a tooth.

If you replaced the distributor in any position but the correct one, it may run, and if it does, it will run rough and you won't be able to time it.

I recommend removing the distributor and reinstalling it making sure it's timed exactly right.

Google search "235 octane selector" to learn how to set it, the reason it exists and it's relationship with the slot screw that also holds the distributor in timed position. In short, set the octane selector to "0", time the truck using the slot screw with flat head driver. The octane selector is what your picture shows bolted to the block.

It just so happens that I too am having rough running problems with my fresh rebuilt 235 so just this morning I was researching the octane selector. I found the Stovebolt Forum has plenty of helpful advice in addition to this forum.

[jglassjr]

I have no one to help me turn it over so I removed the valve cover to see the valves...I have a bump start but for some reason I cant get it to work on this thing...made a diff post about that... I got a new timing light this morning.. set the octane selector at 0 and timed it so the ball is at the pointer... its popping thru the carb under load now... I advanced the octane selector up to the top....and its has more power but still popping thru the carb under load....I did notice as I was reving it up, the vaccuum advance was was barely moving the dizzy... could this be my problem? not advancing quikly enough to keep up with the load?

[Henry50]

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak or a bad vacuum advance. A vacuum leak will cause a lean pop.

[Foot Stomper]

You should be able to see the distributor advance when reaching over the engine to pull on the throttle. It won't move a whole bunch, but will be easy to see that it is moving.

You can check for an intake manifold leak by spraying something like WD40 where it mounts to the head. If the engine immediately increases in rpm, its telling you it likes WD40...and that you have a vacuum leak.

[jglassjr]

the vaccuum advance moves abit...1/8"....less than a quarter inch for sure as I rev it,probably to 2500 rpm.... my wipers are vaccuum operated,so I pulled the vaccuum line from the manifold, took a breath and blew into it... the air leaked thru, VERY slowly but did leak...should I be able to blow thru it at all? I replaced the vaccuum advance line, checked the carb bolts...ill spray the WD 40 around the intake tomorrow... thx for the tips!!! I sure need them

[sack54]

Vacuum gauge would be real handy if you have one . You can tune any motor
pretty good and easy.

[jglassjr]

I have one.... was pulling almost 18Hg....Ive timed it with the BB on the pointer...then read another thread with advice to time it using a vaccuum gage to the highest rating and forget the pointer and ball....it seems to be abit better with the BB and the pointer... so thats where Im at now...

[sack54]

Do you have a hand held mighty vac you could check the advance of dizzy,might be sticking while trying to advance.Or dragging or have interference
from the block.

[jglassjr]

I just have a simple $20 vaccuum gauge.. its holding at just under 18Hg

[sack54]

Just a thought are wires in order 1536324 . Six cylinders run pretty good with one wire wrong! I saw this problem before and it was the dizzy was not advancing enough. Had a small hole in vacuum tubing. Are the points,cap and rotor good ,points gaped well. Timing is the problem for sure .The vacuum advance should move greater than 1/8

[jglassjr]

Plug wires are in order.. there is an ignitor unit in the dizzy.... i replaced the vaccuum line to the advance, no difference....this morning it started right up, idle fine... the warmer it got the worse its running... real rich, black smoke from the tail pipe... sluggish... timing retarded?

[sack54]

I would say so . needs to advance more

[jglassjr]

I have the bb lined up with the pointer and the octane selector at 10.... im kinda getting disgusted....

[sack54]

Try wiring one out and see what happens should give more advance

[jglassjr]

Hmmmm... not sure what you mean "wiring one out"
can you dumb that down abit for me?

[sack54]

plug wires put 1 on 5 and so on it will advance timing you may have to retard dizzy a bit .Worth a shot at this point.