Tilt Gurus need some help

[randy500]

How are you planning to remove the pivot pins? Do you have the puller?

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by davischevy

How dare you interject logic into this conversation.

Silly me

[72tutone]

Originally Posted by randy500

You almost had me stumped...I think that is the plate that slides in a slot below where the tilt pointer sits, supports the tilt pointer inside the bulb and is swaged into the bowl, you can epoxy it back in.

Hi Randy. Thanks for the reply. Yep, i'm looking at this thread with this pic in post 3 and it looks like thats where it goes. Thank you!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=5707298

[72tutone]

Originally Posted by randy500

How are you planning to remove the pivot pins? Do you have the puller?

I do not have the puller. I do have a 8/32 grade 8 machine screw and a nut. I'm going to pull them out that way

[randy500]

Originally Posted by 72tutone

I do not have the puller. I do have a 8/32 grade 8 machine screw and a nut. I'm going to pull them out that way

That should work, if you have a slide hammer and could install that screw into it, it would pull it and save you making up a spacer for pulling clearance.

[randy500]

And after you pull one pin, lube it up and push it back in by hand to support the pivot bowl while pulling the other pin, otherwise it can get cocked and make the other pin more difficult to pull. Of course release the tilt spring before you do any of that..

[randy500]

And did you get the nut off the shaft? Use a 6 point socket, it hits the flats well, 12 point don't think works, think its 15/16ths size, cant remember.

[72tutone]

Originally Posted by randy500

And after you pull one pin, lube it up and push it back in by hand to support the pivot bowl while pulling the other pin, otherwise it can get cocked and make the other pin more difficult to pull. Of course release the tilt spring before you do any of that..

Yep, tilt spring already removed. Good advice on the pivot pin. Thank you sir

[72tutone]

Originally Posted by randy500

And did you get the nut off the shaft? Use a 6 point socket, it hits the flats well, 12 point don't think works, think its 15/16ths size, cant remember.

Are you referring to the "wedge nylon locknut"? I also was checking on some other posts. I cant recall his name but he used a 23mm box end and it worked ok.
But, I will definitely try a 6 point socket if that will work

[randy500]

I think your talking about the same nut, it adjusts the upper bearings and has way too many threads exposed.

I'm working on a column now, done lots of them but it was a long time ago, checked for wrench fit last night with American only, found the 6 point socket fit and American 12 point wrench did not, the metrics I had close by were too small.

[randy500]

And once you get the pins removed, the tilt lever needs to be reinstalled so you can pull it back releasing the bowl from the pivot notches.

[randy500]

And clean the steering shaft where it sticks out the end real well with a wire bruck and then lube it, otherwise it can be hard to extract from the lower bearing.

[72tutone]

Thank you again Randy. Best of luck in your rebuild. I just checked and I dont have a deep well 15/16 6 point. I will head to the store and pick one up.

I will also wire brush the shaft where the nut resides. The manual calls for white lithium soap grease. I googl'ed that and it looks like white lithium grease is the same.
So thats covered.

[randy500]

I'm guessing on the size...I will go out and confirm.

[randy500]

Confirmed, it's 15/16, the nut is so deep I only think a 1/2' drive socket will be long enough, my 3/8" drive one seemed a bit short. Amazingly I don't have metric wrenches that large to see if one fits.
A 15/16 wrench will probably not work since it contacts only 2 flats and the socket gets 6 flats.
Now my sockets are snap on and they seem to be closer tolerance in the center where the flats contact that 12 point nut, so other brands might not get as much contact

[randy500]

Originally Posted by 72tutone

Thank you again Randy. Best of luck in your rebuild. I just checked and I dont have a deep well 15/16 6 point. I will head to the store and pick one up.

I will also wire brush the shaft where the nut resides. The manual calls for white lithium soap grease. I googl'ed that and it looks like white lithium grease is the same.
So thats covered.

Wire brush the threads if dirty the lube with grease or oil to speed up removing the nut.

I was telling you to clean the end of the steering shaft where it exits the column (connects to the intermediate steering shaft) because it can stick in the lower column bearing if not clean.

[72tutone]

Thanks for checking. I do have metrics, but I dont have any that are deep well.
But 15/16 deep well 6 point it is. Hopefully its long enough that it will fit ok.

[72tutone]

Originally Posted by randy500

Wire brush the threads if dirty the lube with grease or oil to speed up removing the nut.

I was telling you to clean the end of the steering shaft where it exits the column (connects to the intermediate steering shaft) because it can stick in the lower column bearing if not clean.

Ahh very well. I have ordered a replacement bearing for the lower column, so I will do that as well.

[randy500]

Last few tips...
Be careful you don't loose any of the ball bearings from the upper shaft, the inner bearing is not available, put a pan or something under it to catch them from falling if they fall out of the plastic retainer.

Put the pins back in when you take off that upper shaft nut, when the nut is off you will have to use a screwdriver to remove the outer bearing race which is under the nut.
That race has a split in it and can be a little difficult to see and remove. Remove the race then remove the pins, then carefully remove the bowl over the shaft while watching for falling bearings.
Don't forget to remove the neutral safety switch before trying to remove the shift tube.

[72tutone]

Randy-
Would you by chance happen to have an extra green lit cover over the tilt housing light? I have the bezel but I'm missing the green cover cap. I believe the green was used on vans, and an amber or clear on truck columns?
I would be more than happy to purchase it if you do.

[randy500]

I don't have any of those, I seem to remember seeing them but not sure what they look like or the material they are made of.

[72tutone]

Thanks for checking.
Well the 15/16 didnt work. I guess like you stated, all sockets are not created equally. I might just have to buy the tool.

But on the good note, the pivot pins came out easy using that 8/32 machine screw with some washers and what not.

Do you use the special tool to drive out the shift tube? Just curious as to whats up ahead for me after the bearing housing is out.

[randy500]

You may have to grind that socket flat, since its flared at the opening and there is not much depth on the nut faces.

No special tools needed. You can not pull off the upper housing with the shaft attached, Then remove 4 bolts on the knuckle where it pivots.
Then there is a clip on the shift tube to remove, shift tube comes out the bottom.

[randy500]

Ok, I disassembled 2 columns tonight. The snap on 1/2" drive 15/16 deep chrome socket fit well and easily took off the nut for the center shaft bearings. I almost went out and bought a socket to grind down flatter at the tip but instead decided to give it a try. Also the factory recommended tool is Kent Moore, part number J-22599, there are a bunch of them on ebay right now, cheapest is $42 shipped.

[72tutone]

Randy thanks.
Yep, thats the socket I wound up buying. I need it to hurry from wisconsin

So, on the shift tube the manual recommended J —22551 as it has a hook in the tool which helps aid in the shift tube.
What are you using to slide over the shaft to crank out the tube?