47-55.1 What's going wrong inside my 350?

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by dsraven

before doing the t/chain install, also grab some brake cleaner to get the old rubber parts cleaned up and silicone remnants removed. I usually would flush the area afterwards with some fresh solvent (varsol type stuff) and have a dedicated garden sprayer just for this job. it works great for diffs as well. leave the pan plug out and let'er rip-starting from the top of the t/cover gasket area and down (try not to dilute the lube on the front of the cam bearing area or any of the rod bearings if spraying in the oil pan area), that way the gasket surfaces are all clean. any old silicone pieces or dust/rag lint etc are flushed out. I also use a pump and spray hand held unit, with viton seals, for smaller solvent jobs and have a few in the shop. solvent, engine cleaner, brake cleaner (I buy bulk-5 gal pail of each of these items, waaay cheaper and you get a better control of the pressure and spray pattern desired with the pump up sprayer. link below but they should be around the $50-60 mark. I know, sounds pricey but they last forever and can be used for a bunch of different things). remember to blow out the threaded holes so you don't cause a hydraulic lock situation behind the bolts when you install.
again, if it was me I would pull the engine and find out what I have for bearing clearances and thread locker on the rod bolts etc. I totally understand if you don't feel like doing all that work at this point in the frustration curve.
like an old buddy in the shop used to say
"get'er done, button'er up and wipe'er down".
hopefully still having fun.

https://www.kmstools.com/1l-pump-pre...y-bottle-11985

Thanks for the tips DsRaven. You are a wealth of knowledge on this site and I really appreciate your input and suggestions. If the weather is not to bad this weekend I might be able to get some work done on the truck.

[MD2020]

What IS going with your 350
We need some updates?

[1project2many]

Originally Posted by MD2020

What IS going with your 350
We need some updates?

It is funny how many people are checking in on this.
With all the drama available on the internet, we're really just waiting to see how the engine repair works out.

[NeoJuice]

Sorry guys no update as of yet. I've had a bad cold this week of course when it decides to warm up a little. I think i'm on the mend to getting better just as we slip back into a deep freeze again for the weekend. God you would think this cold weather would let up already!!!!

I appreciate everyone who is checking in on my thread. This is a great forum and great community of people willing to help were they can.

Updates soon to follow.

[dsraven]

get better, THEN fix your truck. no fun working with a cold and you can't think straight anyway.

[58SkuzBukit]

I’ve only read a few pages, so excuse me if it’s been mentioned.

You talked about the TC not being bolted to the flywheel. There is a depth of TC to trans pump engagement spec that should be checked. If it’s too far in the pump, the TC could be rubbin inside the trans pump....

I have the same 350/700r4 setup and I had to shim some

Edit: or shim into the trans to ensure proper TC to pump engagement.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

I dont plan on keeping that noisy gear drive. That thing will be put online to go to a new home.

Before I pulled things apart I set TDC on #1. And as far as I believe that should mean the rotor should be pointing at #1 with the dots at crank 12 & cam 12. If the dots are at crank 12 and cam 6 then it's TDC on #6 piston then it should be good to fire as well. I'll probably turn the crank to crank 12 and cam 6 so I can line up the marks when the new chain is installed. I dont want to chance eyeballing 12 & 12 and maybe being a tooth off.

Adding a picture for reference. Hope to get out to the garage this weekend since its finally supposed to warm up.

[MD2020]

There is only 1 way to learn how to line up the timing on a STOCK cam and crank sprocket.
There is ONLY 1 clock, and it is the crank sprocket.
So the dot on the crank sprocket is up (12:00) and the dot on the cam sprocket is down PERIOD................

The rotor button as a general rule should be pointed at the number 1 cyl. but it does not have to be. As long as the #1 spark plug wire is lined up to the rotor.

[NeoJuice]

Folks, it's time for a weekend update.

With the timing marks set at 12 crank 12 cam I removed the distributor cap to double check that the rotor was pointing at #1 cylinder. It was.

Next I rotated the engine so the timing marks lined up at 12 crank and 6 cam. I proceeded to remove the center gear drive then the remove the bolts from the cam gear. The three bolts in the cam gear I could turn out with my finger(As shown in the previous post one of them was completely backing itself out).

When the cam gear was removed a small piece of metal fell out and onto the ground. I was like WTF. The cam guide peg broke off the end of the cam. This was not looking good.

Looking at the bolts in the picture of the old gear drive you can see that with the bolts being loose it caused the cam gear to flop around and must have snapped off the cam guide peg. Upon further inspection the holes in the cam gear were WAY to big for the bolts that were either provided with the cam or he put in himself. Or they are made bigger for different applications for the gear drive.

Once the top gears were out I proceeded to use my three jaw puller to remove the crank gear.

I then removed the remnant of the timing cover lip and the old seal. I then proceed into the house to pop the crank gear into the over at 450 degrees for about 20 minutes. Grabbed the oven mitts and proceeded out to the garage and that gear slipped on like a hot knife through butter.

So now that the crank gear was on it was just a matter of lining up the crank 12 and cam 6 and put in the bolts. Once the new bolts were in I removed one at a time and added lock tight. Once all of them had lock tight they were torqued to 23 ft lbs.

Now that the bolts were torqued to spec I used the crank gear bolt and turned the motor back to TDC of #1 and that's how she sits at this moment.

A lot of screwing around this afternoon and was hoping to get a little more accomplished but now that it's warmed up now I have a little more motivation to get out into the garage.

I hope to get the timing chain cover on tomorrow and maybe water pump back on. The major hurdle is done and hopefully no more surprises.

I'll be posting a video when I have a free minute of the chain in action. One side is nice and tight and the other has about 1/8" of slack. I'm just wondering if this is normal. I'll see if I can get that posted up tonight.

Thank you everyone for following.

[NeoJuice]

Video of chain slack

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EmCepLopbfWSCgDh7

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Video of chain slack

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EmCepLopbfWSCgDh7

That's pretty much what you get as far as chain tightness goes. You're OK. If the engine has been drastically align bored it gets a little worse, but I wouldn't worry about it.

NOTE: (3/18/19) THE FOLLOWING COMMENT IS INCORRECT. Sprocket marks are at 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock when at TDC on a small block Chevy. See my comment #202.

Just as a comment: I've never set TDC on a small block chevy at 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock, but I seem to remember that on at least one 6-cylinder back in the day. It's always 6 o'clock on the cam for a SBC. I know times are changing but... The good news is, if your engine is 180 out, all you have to do is pull the distributor up and rotate the shaft 180 degrees.

[dsraven]

as mentioned before, if you find issues inside a fresh engine built by someone else then you may want to think about a total tear down and check. at least the oil pan and check some rod bolts for torque. if one of those is in the same shape as the cam bolts it could be spendy to fix if it throws a rod.
your truck, your money and time, your decision.

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by dsraven

as mentioned before, if you find issues inside a fresh engine built by someone else then you may want to think about a total tear down and check. at least the oil pan and check some rod bolts for torque. if one of those is in the same shape as the cam bolts it could be spendy to fix if it throws a rod.
your truck, your money and time, your decision.

I absolutely agree. There are way too many issues with just the cam gear to trust anything done to this engine. My opinion only.

Wade

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by Driver_WT

I absolutely agree. There are way too many issues with just the cam gear to trust anything done to this engine. My opinion only.

Wade

X3...but we were here earlier...

[dsraven]

the flat tin washer that went under the cam bolts was supposed to have the edges bent over the bolt heads to lock the bolts in place. that is one more reason to check further, it was an amateur who assembled the engine and he just didn't know better. it makes me ask the question "what else did he unknowingly assemble not quite right"

[Black_Sheep]

If the crank gear dot is at 12 o'clock and the cam gear is also at 12 o clock, rotate the crank one complete revolution, the crank gear will be at 12 again and the cam gear will be at 6.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by Black_Sheep

If the crank gear dot is at 12 o'clock and the cam gear is also at 12 o clock, rotate the crank one complete revolution, the crank gear will be at 12 again and the cam gear will be at 6.

This is correct. I did turn the engine so that the cam was at 6 and crank 12 to line up the gears properly.

After I installed the chain I turned the motor to TDC on #1 so it was back to 12 cam, 12 crank. This is the way it was before I removed the old gears. As I mentioned I removed the distributor cap and the rotor was pointing at #1 with crank 12 cam 12.

So are you saying that my distributor is 180 out? I'm confused.

Initially before removing the balancer I turned the motor over by hand & stuck my finger in the #1 hole and turned the crank over by hand until it blasted strong air against my finger then lined up the marker on the dampener to 0 degrees. This is when I started disassembly. When removing the timing chain cover the marks were cam 12, crank 12. So that should be TDC on #1.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

That's pretty much what you get as far as chain tightness goes. You're OK. If the engine has been drastically align bored it gets a little worse, but I wouldn't worry about it.

Just as a comment: I've never set TDC on a small block chevy at 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock, but I seem to remember that on at least one 6-cylinder back in the day. It's always 6 o'clock on the cam for a SBC. I know times are changing but... The good news is, if your engine is 180 out, all you have to do is pull the distributor up and rotate the shaft 180 degrees.

Ok I wont worry about the slack on the chain if that is normal.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by dsraven

as mentioned before, if you find issues inside a fresh engine built by someone else then you may want to think about a total tear down and check. at least the oil pan and check some rod bolts for torque. if one of those is in the same shape as the cam bolts it could be spendy to fix if it throws a rod.
your truck, your money and time, your decision.

Thanks DsRaven. This is one of those I didn't ask for paper work to actually prove that the work was done on the motor when I should have. So all I know is that this could be a low mileage 350 with some add-ons (cam, Cam gears etc etc) .

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by Driver_WT

I absolutely agree. There are way too many issues with just the cam gear to trust anything done to this engine. My opinion only.

Wade

I respect your opinion.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by dsraven

the flat tin washer that went under the cam bolts was supposed to have the edges bent over the bolt heads to lock the bolts in place. that is one more reason to check further, it was an amateur who assembled the engine and he just didn't know better. it makes me ask the question "what else did he unknowingly assemble not quite right"

That is true.

[NeoJuice]

What do you think those gears are worth used? I'm going to try and sell it to try recover some of my costs.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

This is correct. I did turn the engine so that the cam was at 6 and crank 12 to line up the gears properly.

After I installed the chain I turned the motor to TDC on #1 so it was back to 12 cam, 12 crank. This is the way it was before I removed the old gears. As I mentioned I removed the distributor cap and the rotor was pointing at #1 with crank 12 cam 12.

So are you saying that my distributor is 180 out? I'm confused.

Initially before removing the balancer I turned the motor over by hand & stuck my finger in the #1 hole and turned the crank over by hand until it blasted strong air against my finger then lined up the marker on the dampener to 0 degrees. This is when I started disassembly. When removing the timing chain cover the marks were cam 12, crank 12. So that should be TDC on #1.

Ok now I'm a little confused. I think every video I watched online everyone talks about lining up the dots to install the new chain but they never mention anything about setting the engine to TDC on #1 before starting the job.

Well yes I did do that, my marks were at 12 cam & 12 crank with the rotor pointing at #1 cylinder before starting the job. I then turned the motor to line up the dots crank 12, cam 6 then when finished installing the new chain I cranked the engine over to TDC on #1 putting it back to crank 12, cam 12.

So when you say that my distributor is out of wack that would mean that I would need to

-remove the chain
-pull the distributor
-Turn the cam gear/cam until the lines match at cam 6 and crank 12
-Reinstall the chain
-Drop in the distributor to point to #1 cylinder.

I just want to clarify this before I put everything back together. As I mentioned that when my finger gets blown out the #1 hole the cam is at 12 and crank 12.

Any help would be appreciated. Sorry in a little bit of a panic state that this was wrong to begin with from the previous owner.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Ok now I'm a little confused. I think every video I watched online everyone talks about lining up the dots to install the new chain but they never mention anything about setting the engine to TDC on #1 before starting the job.

Well yes I did do that, my marks were at 12 cam & 12 crank with the rotor pointing at #1 cylinder before starting the job. I then turned the motor to line up the dots crank 12, cam 6 then when finished installing the new chain I cranked the engine over to TDC on #1 putting it back to crank 12, cam 12.

So when you say that my distributor is out of wack that would mean that I would need to

-remove the chain
-pull the distributor
-Turn the cam gear/cam until the lines match at cam 6 and crank 12
-Reinstall the chain
-Drop in the distributor to point to #1 cylinder.

I just want to clarify this before I put everything back together. As I mentioned that when my finger gets blown out the #1 hole the cam is at 12 and crank 12.

Any help would be appreciated. Sorry in a little bit of a panic state that this was wrong to begin with from the previous owner.

NOTE: (3/18/19) THE FOLLOWING COMMENT IS INCORRECT. Sprocket marks are at 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock when at TDC on a small block Chevy. See my comment #202.

1) Put the dots close together: Crank at 12, cam at 6. 2) Put the distributor at TDC. You're done.

[NeoJuice]

Just talked with my cousin who's a mechanic and he said I'm all good.

12 & 12 is fine as long as my rotor is pointing at piston #1 (which it is). He said I can check it by turning the motor over and if at crank 12 cam 6 the rotor is pointing at #6 then everything is good.

I will double check before putting things back together.