Rust repair opinions wanted

[72kool]

I've been doing a bunch of research lately on rust repair. I'm fairly confident that I could do it myself but have a few questions.

On my cab it needs inner rockers, cab supports, cab corners and passenger kick panel.

I need to buy my own welder since I can't take this to work (that would be nice , wouldn't it? ) and I need a much bigger air compressor. With that alone I have atleast $1500 in cost just for tools.

What is a rough cost to have a shop do those repairs for me, with parts provided? I know it will very a lot but I just want rust cut out and new panel welded in. Nothing.else done. Would it be cheaper than me getting the tools now?

Any place to find a detailed description of how these cabs are pieced together? I want to make sure I've got everything bought to patch the rust and want to make sure I don't forget any panel I might not realize is connected to what has rusted out

[GR8-68]

It will take much more than 1500, unless you already have the basic tools. Not sure what the going rate is at body shops now days but would probably be time and materials, average cost per hour in North Carolina is 85 per hour for labor

[72kool]

I have all or most other tools. I'm a mechanic by trade but pursuing.a different job currently. And like I said, I literally just want the rust cut out and panels welded back in. No filler, no paint or even grinding and sanding if you don't want. Very basic work haha..also, for those repairs, does a shop need a bare cab or can I leave the fenders on? The bed I planned on removing anyways, but my front clip was going to leave for now

[AussieinNC]

Your cab sounds like a typical 70's candidate...the following will give you an idea...

Inner rockers, (you will need outer rockers as well!)
All cab supports which means the rear cab support unit,
Both cab corners plus floor patches
Passenger kick panel will also require front pillar repair...if passenger is gone, drivers will be nearly gone too....
Rear pillar repair panels most likely...plus inner cab supports...

Best way for this amount of work is a new floor pan unit, kickers and front pillars, outer rockers...and cab corners..

That's about 50 hours of labor plus parts...

Stripped cab is needed, no glass, fuel tank out, supply the doors so they can be aligned to the new outer rockers...panel guy doing this MUST use a solid jig to hold cab in alignment...

[garyd1961]

deleted

[AussieinNC]

Never quite figured out why some people need to use bad language...

I try and be nice to everyone...

Lots of very honest, knowledgeable people here...all willing to help out

[bill3rail]

First, I would start with asking everyone I know "Do you know anyone who does body work?" Find a recommendation to a shop or two.

Then, I would buy all of the patch panels needed so you know they are starting with all parts you would like replaced. Then drive the truck to recommended shops and ask for rough estimate.

Lastly, let them tell you what they will do instead of stating "I just want rust cut out and new panel welded in. Nothing else done." Then you can say yes or no to anything they are offering to work on.

Best of luck to you, and keep us posted on the results.
Bill

[dmjlambert]

I had a rusted out inner roof above the windshield, and above the driver-side door it was rusted out so bad the metal where the door seal goes was flimsy and weak. I did some asking around to find out where to go, and ended up at a body shop that does work on old cars. The body shop owner told me what to order and said he could provide everything else. I bought one of those inner roof repair panels and a windshield seal from GMC Paul. For $500 the body shop installed the panel, fabricated the inner roof and weatherstrip holder above the door, prepared and put primer on the metal, and installed a new windshield. The windshield glass was part of the $500 body shop bill. To do the work they removed and re-installed the visors, mirror, and bench seat. I was not alarmed by the price and it turned out really nice. I know you don't need those particular things done, but it's just to give you an idea of how much you can get done for $500.

[randy500]

I posted this week on how to do this job, it's easy. You shouldn't need a new air compressor for the job, cut the panels with a 1/16 abrasive blade on a 4.5 inch grinder, blades are cheap on amazon, buy 6 inch blades and take the gears off to fit them. They last way longer and cost about the same. A good miller welder is about $1200, get the miller 211, you won't regret it. I will try find the link to my explanation of how to do the job...

[randy500]

Here is the link on what to buy and briefly how to go about rocker and outer floor repair
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=742176

[toolboxchev]

Most guys with these sheet metal issues just get frustrated and find a decent cab to start.

I can tell you this, pull the carpet, all the sound deadening material and glove box. It all holds water in and you will see more than you have bargained for.

With that said I have the exact repairs to do myself and have found under the windshield is rotted both on drivers and passenger sides and there is additional areas in and around the cowl to firewall areas that need repair also.

I have seen many of cabs being advertised as being rust free, or repaired and find it covered in nice smooth sanded areas with fully primed and ready to go.

I passed. If your going to tackle it on your own do plenty of research here first. You will find many builds that go into great detail showing how bad some of the rust truly is. Do a Google search up in the window with the 67-72 button checked.

There are some very great pros on here whom have had done some extreme bang up, knock down, kick butt work on cabs here with many links to some excellent shops also around the nation.

You are definitely on the right track. I am looking to do the same or find another truck worth doing it on, maybe even a 4WD truck.

[In The Ten Ring]

I have this coming up too at some point. If the body shop that I have slated to repair my car does a good job, I may hire them to work on my cab.

The guy said I could watch him cut my rusty Honda quarter panel and panel-bond in my replacement (from a car out of Montana). If I have him work on my truck, I want to watch that too.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by randy500

I posted this week on how to do this job, it's easy. You shouldn't need a new air compressor for the job, cut the panels with a 1/16 abrasive blade on a 4.5 inch grinder, blades are cheap on amazon, buy 6 inch blades and take the gears off to fit them. They last way longer and cost about the same. A good miller welder is about $1200, get the miller 211, you won't regret it. I will try find the link to my explanation of how to do the job...

The Miller 211 is we have, supposed to be able to do Stainless and Aluminum also at the correct wavelength electrically. So far my bud has built a 250 gallon reverse flow smoker.

Had to get that done first so we could have some good grub!

[72kool]

Then another question would be , does anybody have recommendations for a body shop in or around central nebraska?

The truck has other rust spots but they don't worry me because I weld a fair amount for work and not really difficult by any means. It's just the cabs that scare me because they basically make or break your success

[volksworld]

another problem is most aftermarket repair panels dont fit like the factory ones...so the skill of the bodyman has a lot to do with the finished product...a legitimate resto guy with shrinkers ,stretchers and brakes to tweak what you give him or make stuff from scratch is better than some production guy that'll tack in what you supply,and when you complain that nothing lines up you'll be told its because of the crap you supplied him with...

[harpo231]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

It will take much more than 1500, unless you already have the basic tools. Not sure what the going rate is at body shops now days but would probably be time and materials, average cost per hour in North Carolina is 85 per hour for labor

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1500305486

[GASoline71]

I did all mine myself. I already had a welder and an air compressor and right angle grinders. I bought a body hammer and dolly set from Harbor Freight for cheap. Trust me... you'll need the hammers. I bought a couple of spot weld cutters as well.

Once the tear down started, the rust was way worse than it appeared from the outside. So I got into more body work and lower pillar work than I originally thought. All the metal cost me around $350 bucks. I was able to buy it all locally.

It's doable, but always be prepared for more work than originally planning for. Rust never sleeps, so if it appears rusty from the outside... it will be 10 times worse once you remove that outer rocker and get into the cab supports and outer floor.

I don't have any training in bodywork or rust repair, and I did it all myself. It's all in my rebuild thread in my signature line. "Out of the Ditch".

Gary

[Orange Crate]

^^^^^X2
Yes expect it to be worse that what you can see. I do all my own work and when I started to attack my rust repair I found A LOT more and decided to get a rust free cab BUT that needed inner and outer rockers also. It can be done and sometimes turns out pretty nice.