Towing 1270 miles i need suggestions

[HEADTURNINGC10]

i plan to make a trip to texas in the end of november with my c10. To make it better ill be pulling a 1957 belair there.
the truck is currently in parts i have a 1985 front cross member to add a drop and disk brakes, the rear end orginally i wanted coil overs but for towing i understand if coil overs wont support the weight. i can get some "hd" coils springs for the trip
BRAKES- i dont want to add power assisted brakes although i will have disks in front and im looking for a conversion for rear disks as well as trailer brakes
drivetrain- mild modifed 402 bc trans unknown at the moment 3.73s with probably a 31s or maybe 33s to keep rpms down at cruising speeds
im really looking for yalls opinion if this truck will pull it there without a problem and any suggestions to make this trip easier

short bed stepside c10 twelve bolt rear

[HEADTURNINGC10]

Some picture of it

[mike16]

to haul one car. its not really worth it to comprimise. better to get a rental vehicle and go that route. coil over and lowered vehicles are not the best choice for hauling anything. especially a 57, presumably on a trailer. Maybe a light trailer or small boat but to safely tow a trailer with a 57 on it?

I dont know what a lowered hauling vehicle will do under the same circumstances. It seems to me that if the rear of the tow vehicle is to high or too low the trailer starts to sway back and forth uncontrolably. I've dealt with a too lowered condition my self and have followed behind many too high conditions going down the road in front of me. Absolutely no control above about 45-50 mph. enourmous potential for accident and injury to vehicles and people. Its no fun flopping around during rush hour in Phoenix either.

rent a u-haul.

[bigdog55]

I agree with mike16. I pulled my GMC from Memphis TN to Dallas with a short wheel base Yukon and it got rocky over about 45 to 50 mph. It also took longer because of the lower speed.

[Davidf]

I don't think the height of the tow vehicle or hitch has anything to do with trailer sway. Trailer sway is usually caused by improper loading of the trailer. The important thing is tongue weight. More tongue weight and the less chance of trailer sway. But, the tow vehicle must handle the tongue weight of probably 200-300 lbs. Most rental car trailers have hydraulic surge brakes, so no need for the tow vehicle to have electric trailer brakes.

Might consider hauling the truck with the car

[HEADTURNINGC10]

haha i would tow the truck with the car but currently not running.
im delivering the car for my uncle. i havent ordered coil overs yet i figured they wouldnt support towing. the truck wont be slammed, it will be lower than factory but i was going to try and keep some towing capabilty. i thought if i loaded the trailer little toward the tongue i could get a heavy duty coil spring to squat but keep the front of the truck from trying to pick up.
i know rental will be smartest and worry free way. Just figured nothing would be cooler than towing it with an old c10
are yall more towards not trying it at all or do yall have any suggestions to make this trip possible?

[Lokin4AReason]

fly there ( w/ the seller picking you up ) along w/ renting a truck n trailer and your good to go =0) ... IMO ( heck this is at what I would do if I had the cash =0/ )

[Davidf]

I don't see why a C10 would not tow the 57 easily. Just get the hitch height and tongue weight correct and you should be fine. Use a Uhaul car trailer and braking also will not be a problem...the trailer will help the truck stop. Over loading the tongue is almost as bad as under loading it.

With a tandem axle trailer (i.e Uhaul car trailer), you want about 10-15% of the load on the tongue. So assume the car weighs 3500 lbs and trailer weights 1000-1500 lbs, you want about 450-500 lbs on the tongue (weight of trailer and car). I did the math this time Now, 500 lbs way out back is probably similar 750+ lbs in the bed, still within the load limit of the 1/2 ton truck.

All this is my opinion and guess work, but you should be fine. Do your own research, it's easy.

[67ChevyRedneck]

No. Your truck is too far apart and your deadline is too soon. Take it from a guy that scrambled to get a 65 Mustang ready to drive 3,500 miles on the power tour... without some serious test miles, something will break. The car made the trip, but was down twice for repairs.

I also see a glaring problem with your truck in that the rear wheels stick out with only about an inch of clearance above them. With the weight of the car/trailer your fenders will be sitting on your wheels and any bumps will likely destroy the fenders.

Coil springs and shortbeds aren't ideal for towing a car and trailer.

Save your truck and rent one. Is the 57 a show car or project? Either way, it's a valuable car, hate to hear of something bad happen to it or your truck. I have your exact truck, but a 67 with a 350/700R. Mine has been dead nuts reliable since 2006 and I would still never consider towing a car with it that far.

[HEADTURNINGC10]

its an old picture those tires were 31x16.5s long gone i will be going up a little in the rear with 3/4 ton rear coils. if i decide to do towing direction ill put 31x10.5 on it.
i know its a lot to do but as long as i feel its safe to tow with it im going to build it. i feel the time frame is do able

[Davidf]

I just checked Uhaul's website...it says not recommended

Uhaul says truck has to weigh at least 3500 lbs (pass) and 80% of load being towed (fail).

[trac209]

Originally Posted by Davidf

I just checked Uhaul's website...it says not recommended

Uhaul says truck has to weigh at least 3500 lbs (pass) and 80% of load being towed (fail).

You're better off anyhow for reasons stated above. Could you have pulled it off perhaps. Would you have had a stress free drive for 1200 plus miles not a chance.

[mike16]

the height of the ball in relation to the tongue and separatly, in relation to the tow vehicle is indeed very important. potential sway antics can be deminished by placing more weight forward of the trailer axle but that can only go so far to eliminate sway problems and can creat other problems too. And that assumes you can shift weight forward and not overload the trailer or exceed tongue weight/load. And all of this may not eliminate sway. It may only allow you to travel faster befor sway becomes an issue. And once your traveling at that higher speed and sway begines then what? everything you do is accentuated. And if you get into compensating for the sway at the wrong time the problems that creates are potentially worse. much much worse.

Bare in mind that some state highways and fedel highways have a minimum speed limit and a maximum speed limit with a trailer, and U haul mandates speeds not to exceed of I think 55 miles an hour. So the window to operate safely is narrow and is not just limited to considerations for your safety but others on th road as well. and then there are the vehices, Chevy trucks and 57 cars.....Yes it cost more but you want to get there safely. I just did the same thing a few months ago and i fugured it several different ways and the u hual option was only about 100 bucks more than several other options. But the trouble free no stress leasurly way I went about it .it ended up being the overal best way to go.

U haul people were very friendly and helpfull when I picked up and droped off the truck and trailer. I do u hual exclusively because of that. They beat every one elses prices all around too. The radio and AC worked too

[HEADTURNINGC10]

I have a 89 four door dually 454 turbo 400 I use to pull but it's not nearly as cool to pull with. And the fuel effiencey with manifolds and tbi blow
I just figured id ask to see if y'all have done it or would try.
And yes I know about the load of a trailer.

[mike16]

think what happend to Bruce Jenner AKA "Caitlyne" or what ever. I think its being charged with vehicular manslaughter.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by HEADTURNINGC10

I have a 89 four door dually 454 turbo 400 I use to pull but it's not nearly as cool to pull with. And the fuel effiencey with manifolds and tbi blow
I just figured id ask to see if y'all have done it or would try.
And yes I know about the load of a trailer.

This is a no brainer. If you have that, I'd use it. "Could" you tow with the swb c10 - yes, you could. "Should" you tow - no, absolutely not. It's not recommended by the trailer folk for a reason, nor is it nearly as safe as your other option. I've towed similar weight cars with my 1/2 ton '01 4x4, which has a mgvwr a good bit higher than yeller, and it was just barely enough. Wish my newer truck was a 3/4t like my old one was.

Anyway, I digress. You asked, I think you got some good answers. I think we all assumed you had no other options - but if you have an 89 dually with a big block, well, c'mon now.

[HeloCrewChief]

I have to chime in here and say this is not something to mess with. I'm a Chevy guy all the way but, when it comes to towing I use a 3500 Dodge Ram with a Cummins. I'm in my 3rd one now. Granted, I usually am towing a 3/4 ton or 1/2 ton 69-72 Chevy truck for only 200-300 miles at a time. Even then, things have gotten a bit hairy at times. Just depends on wind, rain, idiot drivers, hills etc.
Point being, even with the most capable truck and trailer, I still hate towing. Towing for over 1,000 miles requires the right equipment to do it safely and effectively. You are not only putting your life on the line but, the lives of others on the road. I personally would not tow with that configuration.