Fuel Condition and Quality

[LT7A]

I did a search for fuel stabilizers and found this thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...uel+stabilizer

Since the title doesn't speak to the content I decided to start a new thread.

Who uses fuel stabilizers, what brand, and what do you like about them? I want to find something that can keep the fuel stable as I disassemble my parts truck while I wait to pull the tanks.

Sta-bil seems to be the most common, but apparently Lucas has a fuel stabilizer as well.

I'm thinking that I might run the old fuel in my lawn mower. Any thoughts?

Another topic in that thread is about fuel brands. I get brand loyalty since I had a great experience working at a Chevron one summer. I also have long felt that Chevron gas is well developed and that the Techron additive is effective (we used to use the concentrate as a tune-up aid). That said, there was an opinion stated in that thread that Chevron additives were causing a "reddish, dusty crap" on spark plugs and that Shell was the way to go. Their mechanic said that there was a GM service bulletin that recommended to avoid Chevron gas. Anybody have input on this, or a way to verify?

Shell is my backup plan but I nearly always burn Chevron. So... brand loyalties aside -- what's your experience with modern gas formulas?

[RotaryRocketeer]

I use Sta-bil to store my bike in the winter and it has never failed to impress. 4 carbs with tiny parts and a really intricate in-tank plumbing system and that stuff always keeps it tight.

No brand loyalty here. I generally just make sure my gas comes from a busy station that's turning their tanks over pretty regular. And it may go without saying, but obviously no ethanol at all.

[Jake Wade]

I like to use SeaFoam and I buy Shell, Chevron, Conoco.

[Dead Parrot]

I use my 75 to get rid of old gas. 1~5 gallons of crap gas mixed with 15+ gallons of fresh works just fine.

I use Sta-bil in the 5 gallons I keep for the generator. After a year or so, that 5 goes into the truck and I get 5 fresh gallons. Use 100% gas for the generator and lawnmower.

Use cheap ethanol gas in the truck, it doesn't care and the 1405 eddy carb is easy enough to clean as needed.

[69heavychevy]

I used sta-bil marine (figured more is better) in my gas tank while I tore into my truck. Truck ended up sitting for about 6 months. It worked exactly as advertised.
I always try to use Chevron, if not Shell is the back up. I use QT or Race Trac for my lawn mower.

[D13]

I started my 77 on 5 year old gas the other day. No issues.

[LT7A]

The input is appreciated. I've been looking at additives that stabilize the gas and combat the effects of ethanol. I have a highly tuned turbo 4 cylinder that immediately responds to new gas. It takes me about a month to burn a tank since it's a secondary car. Since I have several (inexpensive but interesting to me) cars, I want to begin managing the fuel that sits in their tanks. I'm going to try Sta-Bil 360 Performance: https://www.goldeagle.com/product/st...60-performance

Anybody tried it? Says that it stabilizes fuel for 12 months along with other features. So as long as I burn a tank a year, should be good. I don't want to use an aggressive fuel system cleaning additive in a car that sits a lot though. I think it can loosen too much contamination at once and gum up the filter and lines.

In related news, I ran across a site that tells locations you can get gas without ethanol: https://www.pure-gas.org/

I will be filling up there on occasion now that I know where it is. It's only the premium that is non-alcoholic so-to-speak. 92 octane though so I'm interested to see if I can feel the difference. I filled up the little turbo car there tonight and it felt like it mighta had a little more snap on the way home, but hard to tell.

Thanks for the input so far and I'm interested to hear from any and all -- even repeat experiences help confirm the information.

[RotaryRocketeer]

Typically, just using a higher octane rating in a turbo car isn't going to make much difference until you tune for it, although it will resist detonation a bit more. That's all octane rating is anyway, resistance to pre-ignition knock. I wouldn't suggest running additives of any kind in a high revving turbo application either. I've got a turbo car that revs out at 8500 and NEVER put any additives in it. Pure gas every time, and nothing else.

On another note, is it really that hard to find non-ethanol gas where you are? In OK you can get it almost anywhere. Most stations have clearly marked, separate pumps for 100% gas and E-10. Maybe we're just spoiled.

[Hiluxxulih]

My 87 chevy V20 has 9 year old gas and it is funky smelling .

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by RotaryRocketeer

Typically, just using a higher octane rating in a turbo car isn't going to make much difference until you tune for it, although it will resist detonation a bit more.

Copy that. My main concern in the thread is for my C15 and K20 that are sitting until up and running again and the parts truck. So far, I'm thinking Sta-Bil for these rigs. Got me thinking about my other "occasional' drivers. It seems that Sta-Bil 360 might work well.

The turbo car is "chipped" among other things and requires premium. I don't run a higher grade than needed in my rigs unless they are tuned to take advantage of it, so I'm with you.

Originally Posted by RotaryRocketeer

I wouldn't suggest running additives of any kind in a high revving turbo application either. I've got a turbo car that revs out at 8500 and NEVER put any additives in it. Pure gas every time, and nothing else.

I may begin putting Sta-Bil 360 in the turbo car since it takes about 60 days to go through a tank and I can tell the difference when I put new gas in it. I would like to have something that preserves the gas and manages the ethanol when I can't get ethanol-free fuel.

Originally Posted by RotaryRocketeer

On another note, is it really that hard to find non-ethanol gas where you are?

It's funny you ask. I didn't know there was such a thing as ethanol free gas until a couple of years ago. And I'm fairly "automobile oriented" as you can probably tell from the info above. I live in an urban area where only E10 is sold. You have to get about 30 miles out of Seattle before you can get E0.

[RotaryRocketeer]

That SUCKS!! Oklahoma is a great state for gearheads. 100% gas, no yearly inspection, and no active smog enforcement.

[jjzepplin]

I typically use Sta-bil in everything including my boat. I recently heard from my tenant about a product he gets from Wally World called Star-Tron. He swears by it and it is even said to rejuvenate old gas. I am going to try it in my boat that has been sitting for about two years. Although I put Sta-bil in there before storage, I am going to add this product and top off the tank with high octane and the Star-Tron.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

I typically use Sta-bil in everything including my boat. I recently heard from my tenant about a product he gets from Wally World called Star-Tron. He swears by it and it is even said to rejuvenate old gas. I am going to try it in my boat that has been sitting for about two years. Although I put Sta-bil in there before storage, I am going to add this product and top off the tank with high octane and the Star-Tron.

I looked it up online and it looks interesting. Let us know how it works out. Might be months from now but I would be interested in hearing. Thanks

[Chris(NJ)]

Going to revive this thread in the hopes of some more recent info. I've now had two carbs get so gummed up from fuel(?) that I've swapped them out in lieu of a rebuild. Most recent is the Holley 600. Put the edelbrock back on and will rebuild the holley in the meantime. So I guess I'm at the point where I need to consider running something in the tank full time. I drive the truck pretty often (at least 1-2x week), so I didn't think it was sitting long enough to cause problems. SO, I guess I'll start preemptively using some fuel treatment.
I've cleaned out previous motors w/ SeaFoam, so I'm thinking about slowly running that through the fuel tank for the remainder of the summer and fall, then switch to either Sta-bil or Star Tron when the truck has a chance of sitting for longer periods of time.

As for brand, I've been using Exxon. I'll switch to Shell in the off-chance that brand is actually a problem, but really can't believe the fuel type was causing the problems as much as the existence of ethanol inclusion which is across the board here in NJ.

[jjzepplin]

I feel your pain. I just sold an engine and trans because I just could not solve the problem. I am going LS in that truck now in hopes of not encountering that issue any longer. (I also paid the same for the engine and trans exactly what I sold the old one for). I still have the other truck with a Holley but I only run non ethanol. I have not started it in a while so thank you for getting me out there. If it keeps giving me grief I will switch that one over to a Edelbrock fuel injection as well.

[RotaryRocketeer]

Originally Posted by Chris(NJ)

Going to revive this thread in the hopes of some more recent info. I've now had two carbs get so gummed up from fuel(?) that I've swapped them out in lieu of a rebuild. Most recent is the Holley 600. Put the edelbrock back on and will rebuild the holley in the meantime. So I guess I'm at the point where I need to consider running something in the tank full time. I drive the truck pretty often (at least 1-2x week), so I didn't think it was sitting long enough to cause problems. SO, I guess I'll start preemptively using some fuel treatment.
I've cleaned out previous motors w/ SeaFoam, so I'm thinking about slowly running that through the fuel tank for the remainder of the summer and fall, then switch to either Sta-bil or Star Tron when the truck has a chance of sitting for longer periods of time.

As for brand, I've been using Exxon. I'll switch to Shell in the off-chance that brand is actually a problem, but really can't believe the fuel type was causing the problems as much as the existence of ethanol inclusion which is across the board here in NJ.

How much soft line does your fuel system have?

[Chris(NJ)]

Originally Posted by RotaryRocketeer

How much soft line does your fuel system have?

I would have to measure for an accurate number, but I would consider it to be quite a bit. Once past the hard line coming out of the tank, its rubber lines along rear frame rails and up under the cab, but I forget how far up the cab until it switches to a hard line again. Do you think the amount is a major contributor to the problem?

[RotaryRocketeer]

If your carbs are gumming up that quickly, I'd look for deterioration in the soft portion. It has happened to me.

[jjzepplin]

Can new gas eat up older plastic tanks?

[RotaryRocketeer]

Perhaps, but it sure will rot and break down rubber fuel lines from the inside out. It can be almost like tar and builds up in small passages.

[Thealien]

DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH BUT I HAVE HAD GOOD LUCK WITH THIS STUFF!

[Dead Parrot]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

Can new gas eat up older plastic tanks?

It shouldn't except for the Ethanol(Corn) lobbyists keep pushing for higher percent of alcohol in the gas mix. Used to be 10% was the tops(and things were rated for that) but there have been recent pushes to increase to 15%. IIRC - the upper limit was increased but the refiners for the most part haven't mixed 15% yet over warranty/liability concerns. Plus the fact we are flush with oil now.

Also likely that high density population centers have special gas in an attempt to limit ozone. Might be those mixes react poorly to open bowl vents on carbs as most cars are now fuel injected.

[72c20customcamper]

We have non ethanol gas here that's all I use in my older vehicles and gas yard equipment. But last year I forgot I had put ethanol in my burban in pa. Stuff went bad in the 5 months it was stored . Truck was missing running rough had to drain 15 gallons and use a couple at a time in my newer cars. Guess which is the fresh gas

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

It shouldn't except for the Ethanol(Corn) lobbyists keep pushing for higher percent of alcohol in the gas mix. Used to be 10% was the tops(and things were rated for that) but there have been recent pushes to increase to 15%. IIRC - the upper limit was increased but the refiners for the most part haven't mixed 15% yet over warranty/liability concerns. Plus the fact we are flush with oil now.

Also likely that high density population centers have special gas in an attempt to limit ozone. Might be those mixes react poorly to open bowl vents on carbs as most cars are now fuel injected.

Wont happen the car makers already expressed that problems with cars designed to run at 10% would be on the oil companies as they expressly state in the car warranty that a max of 10% is to be used . Only vehicles that can use 15 is flex fuel

[LT7A]

Thought I'd get in on the revival of this thread and say that I've been using Sta-bil 360 in all of my part-time drivers since my original posting and am happy with it. I'm curious about the PRI-G stuff in the link above. One thing that I like about the Sta-bil 360 is that it is designed to generate vapor to protect the portion of your tank that isn't submerged in fuel. That reason alone is probably enough for me but I can tell that my fuel is no longer going stale. One of my trucks (TBI) began to perform noticeably better with it. Probably a combo of perpetually old gas and some injection deposits that it cleaned up.