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Old 02-20-2010, 11:59 PM   #26
zammer
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

O.K heres a couple pics I grabbed... hopefully there are enough angles to make sense of the headache i am having, i thought these headers would fit fine..

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Old 02-21-2010, 12:34 AM   #27
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

Zammer,

In the immortal words of Bobby Bowden: dadgum

Probably the easiest thing to do would be find some more headers.

I have been thinking and you might could adapt and internal clutch slave to the old tranny but it would probably be tricky. I think that the clutch release surface and the input shaft housing are about the same in the new and old trannys.

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Old 02-21-2010, 01:49 AM   #28
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

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Originally Posted by zammer View Post
O.K heres a couple pics I grabbed... hopefully there are enough angles to make sense of the headache i am having, i thought these headers would fit fine..


Attachment 549859

Attachment 549860

Attachment 549861

Here's Frizzle's Clipsters:

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Old 02-21-2010, 08:30 PM   #29
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

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Hey Dan,

I am driving the clutch cylinder from the left side of the pedal. The factory mechanical clutch goes thru the pedal mount pivot and drives a lever arm on the right side of the pedal. So there is no factory hole for what I am doing.

TR

TR,

I think Dan meant why didn't you use the hole that was already in the pedal, just below the one you drilled. I was wondering the same thing, it looks like it is only a 1/4" or so center-to-center below the elongated one.

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Old 02-21-2010, 10:20 PM   #30
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

You know LockDoc,

As it turned out I think that factory hole would have worked out fine.

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Old 02-21-2010, 11:53 PM   #31
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

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You know LockDoc,

As it turned out I think that factory hole would have worked out fine.

TR
I may try using it when I do mine. Good thread. Thanks.

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Old 05-29-2010, 06:09 AM   #32
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

Zammer, how is your header clearance on the right side? 60-62 bellhousings are set up for factory hydraulic linkage with the fork and slave on the right.

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Old 05-29-2010, 09:05 AM   #33
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

The clearance on the right side was good, I ended up returning the Sanderson headers and I have some Hedman shorty headers now that work good... I have enough room to get across the frameto the block with the Z bar..
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Old 06-13-2010, 01:10 AM   #34
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

This is backing up a little bit, but I searched in Summit's website for your master cylinder part number 260-3374 and it brought up this, summit calls it a brake master cylinder.

And when serching summit for clutch master cylinders, I found this McLeod Kit for about twice the price. I'm confused?!?!? Are they the same kit and just because one is labeled as a clutch master cylinder it is considerably more??? Am I an idiot and missed something. Sorry to jump in the middle of your thread like this but I would hate to pay double for something if I don't need to.
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Old 06-13-2010, 01:54 AM   #35
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

I believe Wilwood just calls them brake masters since that is the most common use for them. They will work fine as a clutch master cylinder. This is the one that I sell with my power brake conversion for the '60-'62's. It's a little cheaper as well.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-1304/


Judging by the pic, that Mcleod unit is the same as the Wilwood one.....just a lot more $$


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This is backing up a little bit, but I searched in Summit's website for your master cylinder part number 260-3374 and it brought up this, summit calls it a brake master cylinder.

And when serching summit for brake master cylinders, I found this McLeod Kit for about twice the price. I'm confused?!?!? Are they the same kit and just because one is labeled as a clutch master cylinder it is considerably more??? Am I an idiot and missed something. Sorry to jump in the middle of your thread like this but I would hate to pay double for something if I don't need to.
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Old 06-13-2010, 02:42 PM   #36
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

What CaptainFab says is correct. What I used is called a brake master cylinder by Willwood.

TR
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Old 06-13-2010, 02:52 PM   #37
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

Thanks guys, that's what I figured, just wanted to be sure. Great write up!
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:09 PM   #38
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

How do you know how much travel you need in the master cylinder? Can't you blow out the slave if you have the piston pushing in too far on the master?

I'm working on doing my conversion now, and it would seem you need to somehow measure how much "throw" to give the master cylinder???

Just want to make sure I don't run into any problems. And thanks for the write-up! - I ordered everything you did, but I went with a 7/8" bore master cylinder since I plan on flat-shifting at 6000+

I also used an Earl's fitting to convert from the factory slave fitting to a standard AN size. And I rigged up a remote bleeder hose too.

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Old 07-16-2010, 10:11 PM   #39
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

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How do you know how much travel you need in the master cylinder?
I dug around on the Summit site and it says that the Wilwood cylinder originally mentioned has a stroke of 1.10 inches, and the other Wilwood cylinder that Captainfab mentioned requires 1.40 inches of stroke.
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:19 PM   #40
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

Jim,

Good question. I don't know. Mine bottoms out before the end of the master cylinder stroke. Bottoms the slave out I guess. I am using the center pull slave cylinder on the T56. I must have a hard stop, seems to work OK.

Your clutch will be mighty quick with a 7/8" bore. I am thinking of going from a 3/4" down to a 5/8" to give more travel and less pedal effort. Truck is running now and clutch works fine, just a little quick.

Beware!!! The push rod must be close to centered at the bottom of the stroke. I lined mine up at the top of the stroke and then at the bottom the rod was cocked and ruined the cylinder bore and caused a leak into the cab.
Got a new cylinder and lined up the rod at the bottom of the stroke and it works fine.
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:02 AM   #41
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

Thanks for the input -- After looking at my pedal, it looks like I'll be using the factory lever on the other side of the pedal assembly where the stock linkage attaches. It will need to be rotated so it's throwing more towards the firewall, rather than down, but other than that, it looks like it should work pretty well.
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Old 08-21-2010, 12:59 AM   #42
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

sdailey did you have any problems using the stamped Novak fork lever with the cast iron bellhousing? Did you have to machine the fork window open more? If so, what are you doing for a boot?

I am installing the Novak kit (HCRC 3/4") now and ran into this problem. I talked to them at Novak and they have just added more info about this issue to the website. If you use the stamped fork included in the kit, it is too wide for the cast bellhousing window with a boot. If you try to use your original forged fork lever, the slave does not align quite right, off about 1/2 inch. I am fabbing up a bolt-on cup to install on the forged fork to recieve the slave pushrod at the correct location. If it works, I will post pictures. It may be a quick and easy $2 solution.

also, the stamped fork requires the mushroom shaped fork pivot, not included in the kit.
the original forged fork uses the round ball type fork pivot.
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Old 08-23-2010, 09:36 AM   #43
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

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sdailey did you have any problems using the stamped Novak fork lever with the cast iron bellhousing? Did you have to machine the fork window open more? If so, what are you doing for a boot?

I am installing the Novak kit (HCRC 3/4") now and ran into this problem. I talked to them at Novak and they have just added more info about this issue to the website. If you use the stamped fork included in the kit, it is too wide for the cast bellhousing window with a boot. If you try to use your original forged fork lever, the slave does not align quite right, off about 1/2 inch. I am fabbing up a bolt-on cup to install on the forged fork to recieve the slave pushrod at the correct location. If it works, I will post pictures. It may be a quick and easy $2 solution.

also, the stamped fork requires the mushroom shaped fork pivot, not included in the kit.
the original forged fork uses the round ball type fork pivot.

Yes sir I did have a problem with the fork not fitting the bellhousing opening. I informed Novak last year about this issue and they were going to update their information on their website, but I guess they never did until now.

I've attached a few pictures of the modification that I did to my bellhousing. However, I used my original pivot ball with the new clutch fork and best I can remember I talked with Novak about that and they said I could use my old pivot ball. I guess I'll figure out if it works or not when I finally get the truck back together. As far as the fork boot goes I used an original 67-72 boot. I took a razor blade and made a small relief cut where the fork slides through the boot. The flange area of the boot fits up pretty good to the opening of the bellhousing. It's not an exact fit, but it's close. Sorry no pictures of the boot installed.
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Old 08-23-2010, 10:55 AM   #44
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

Thanks!
I may go that route, but I'm playing with a cheap adapter to still use the forged fork. I'll post some pictures soon.

BTW, thanks for your service Marine!

-Tad
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:01 PM   #45
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but a project truck I purchased has the T56 in it. I still need to hook up MC and I was wondering how everyone's turned out? Is there a max throw on the slave? Any lessons learned? Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:47 PM   #46
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

I didn't mess with it, I went with manual clutch
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Old 06-08-2013, 10:10 AM   #47
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

Been keeping an eye on this thread, and I can't wait to get this far with my build... Thanks for the great info
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:01 PM   #48
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

How long were your pieces of 1/2 and 3/4 bar?
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Hey guys,

Here is one way to add a hydraulic clutch master cylinder to a 65C10.

TR
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:42 PM   #49
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

Z50,

The 1/2 bar was 3-7/8" long. The 3/4 bar was 2-3/8" long.

The main thing is that the alignment be very good with the master cylinder bore.

Bye the way I have been running this rig for several years (20k miles) and it has worked flawlessly.

Good luck,

TR
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:00 PM   #50
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Re: Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

I have been running this setup for 50k miles and works alright. I am on my second slave cylinder as the aluminum housing wore out by the steel piston. Still a good setup. I wished there was a better slave cylinder made of cast iron. Any ideas?
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