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Old 03-03-2017, 09:39 PM   #51
geezer#99
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Re: Hard start question

Yup, only 9 v isn't good for starting or for the module.

Like I said, use a heavy duty switch.
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Old 03-04-2017, 02:29 AM   #52
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Re: Hard start question

you need 12v to the HEI, come off your fuse panel on one of the unfused terminals,only hot when the key is on, install an inline fuse and run it to your HEI, that is what I did
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Old 03-04-2017, 10:35 AM   #53
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Re: Hard start question

drove it 30 minutes. unhooked the power to the HEI, tried to start, but the starter still turned super slow.

I think the heat is cooking my starter and even the bypass switch won't help
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Old 03-04-2017, 11:04 AM   #54
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Re: Hard start question

Maybe time to spend 20 bucks and install a ford solenoid.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...1750/overview/
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Old 03-04-2017, 12:13 PM   #55
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Re: Hard start question

Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer#99 View Post
Maybe time to spend 20 bucks and install a ford solenoid.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...1750/overview/
The ford solenoid only helps if the solenoid isn't engaging, which his is because the starter is turning. The heat is cooking the windings in the starter and the only choice he has is to replace the starter or the headers and with the price of those rams horns, the mini starter is the best option. JMHO
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:03 AM   #56
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Re: Hard start question

I was having the same problem on my 74 K20 with a 454 and headers, installed the ford solenoid and it cured the problem
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:18 PM   #57
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Re: Hard start question

Opinion in this fitting my mid 70's exhaust port? Here is a pic of the engine I put in. Ports look pretty close to me..

https://www.1aauto.com/exhaust-manif...=447179&y=1967

It's only 80.00.

The mini starter is an option, but I got to thinking, headers are close to my fuel and brake lines, will still be pretty close to the mini starter, and I already burned a spark plug wire (I have covers on them now, but they are very close. Also, headers are not maintenance free like these.

thanx
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:34 PM   #58
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Re: Hard start question

Those will bolt right up. I ran a set like that on my '56. No problem with ports lining up.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:46 PM   #59
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Re: Hard start question

I'm going with these. Any problems driving to the exhaust shop (10 min) with these open?

Just for fun, here is a pic to show how close headers are.

My pinky won't fit between them.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:56 PM   #60
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Re: Hard start question

Won't hurt for 10 minutes.
Mine and lots of my buds used to make a final open header blast just before we parked our iron for the winter.
Nothing like a bbc or sbc at full song to make you smile!
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:02 PM   #61
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Re: Hard start question

I am running those manifolds on my 72 with a 350 and run manifolds on my other vehicles with small blocks, the only reason I run headers on my trucks with 454's is that the cast iron manifolds crack real easy and are expensive.....the headers aren't that expensive..I am constantly replacing the collector gaskets....I just bought a set of aluminum gaskets and am trying them to see if they are worth the $20.00, and I have to run the protestors on the plug wires...and still burn wires occasionally.....I may go back to cast iron manifolds...
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Old 03-07-2017, 12:19 AM   #62
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Re: Hard start question

I am not running those,I looked at mine today and they are the center dump ones,they are on a 4x4 , that could be why they are different...but anyway, they are cast iron manifolds
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:14 PM   #63
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Re: Hard start question

I can't believe that I got rid of the headers and she still drags when hot. Wow, this truck is going to kill me yet. It does seem a little better.

Anyway the guy at the muffler shop swears it's my timing. I have it at 8btc, but I don't know what cam it has and if it's degreed. He says I need the fancy timing light that others here have mentioned and check total timing. More money I would rather not spend.

He says I most likely need to give it MORE advance, I would think the opposite?

Also, he said I may have the distributor 180 degrees off. THAT makes no sense, I would not think it would even run.

Opinions?
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:51 PM   #64
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Re: Hard start question

You are correct, the muffler guy should stick to exhaust.
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:16 PM   #65
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Re: Hard start question

What have you tested so far after you changed the headers to manifolds? Is your starter too hot to touch after running the engine a while? Now you probably have room for a sheet metal heat shield to experiment. And you have room to poke around and do things like supplement the pos and neg battery cables with additional jumper cables from your truck battery. Is changing your timing still solving the hot start problem but that leaves it set to an unsuitable amount of advance? Have you checked that your distributor vacuum advance is doing anything at all? You should be able to see that with a regular timing light. Disconnect the distributor vacuum advance and plug the port on the carburetor that you disconnected it from. See where the timing is. Reconnect the vacuum advance to a source of ported vacuum. At idle, the timing should not advance. Connect vacuum advance to source of manifold vacuum. At idle, the timing will advance. To tell the difference between the ported and manifold vacuum ports on my carburetor, I held a small piece of paper up to each port. If the paper does not stick to the port at idle, but it does stick at higher RPM, it is ported vacuum. If the paper always sticks regardless of RPM, it is manifold vacuum. If the paper never sticks, the port is something other than vacuum, such as bowl vent. For your hard start problem, it seems to me connecting vacuum advance to ported vacuum would be a good idea, if your vacuum advance works at all.
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Old 03-22-2017, 12:03 AM   #66
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Re: Hard start question

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmjlambert View Post
What have you tested so far after you changed the headers to manifolds? Is your starter too hot to touch after running the engine a while? Now you probably have room for a sheet metal heat shield to experiment. And you have room to poke around and do things like supplement the pos and neg battery cables with additional jumper cables from your truck battery. Is changing your timing still solving the hot start problem but that leaves it set to an unsuitable amount of advance? Have you checked that your distributor vacuum advance is doing anything at all? You should be able to see that with a regular timing light. Disconnect the distributor vacuum advance and plug the port on the carburetor that you disconnected it from. See where the timing is. Reconnect the vacuum advance to a source of ported vacuum. At idle, the timing should not advance. Connect vacuum advance to source of manifold vacuum. At idle, the timing will advance. To tell the difference between the ported and manifold vacuum ports on my carburetor, I held a small piece of paper up to each port. If the paper does not stick to the port at idle, but it does stick at higher RPM, it is ported vacuum. If the paper always sticks regardless of RPM, it is manifold vacuum. If the paper never sticks, the port is something other than vacuum, such as bowl vent. For your hard start problem, it seems to me connecting vacuum advance to ported vacuum would be a good idea, if your vacuum advance works at all.
yeah, you should be connected to ported vacuum....and make sure your vacuum advance is working....although this shouldnt make your engine hard to start.....and the guy saying your dist.is 180 out is weird...wouldn't run...really wish I had an answer to your problem....try the Ford solenoid...
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Old 03-22-2017, 03:15 PM   #67
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Re: Hard start question

thanx for the replies. here is a pic, you can see that i have what should be the right port for the advance. good advice, and pics here for others that may stumble upon this thread with problems, but i don't see how that would cause my issue.

I have a new optima red top, 2 gauge cables, and I sanded where the neg goes to the block. my voltage is good across all the tests.

my starter gets pretty hot, but no hotter than the oil pan. engine does not seem to run hot, does not go further than 1/4 (first line) on the stock gauge. Really not sure what number 1/4 is on the gauge, but that can't be too hot. Of course I'm assuming it works correctly. It does move up as the engine warms up, then down a tick when the electric fans kick in.

So I have the heat shield I had taken off the starter when I removed the headers, I'm gonna put that back on.

But here is the thing, with NO pipe, just manifold when i took it to the muffler shop, it did the same thing, so unless the exhaust blowing on the starter was so hot, then it's not even the pipe!

I've been told from a reliable source that the Ford seleniod won't help as my starter does turn, so my selenoid is not the issue, it's the starter itself.

In the pics you can see where my advance is hooked up. Also a pic of the clearance between pipe and starter, and one of the gauge - sits on first line when warmed up.

I may have to spring for the high torque starter and change nose cones like vette recommended...
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Last edited by dave`12; 03-22-2017 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:09 PM   #68
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Re: Hard start question

Perhaps. You probably need to start replacing parts such as the starter and see what happens, or take a scientific approach and do some troubleshooting. That is a really nice looking engine you have there.
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Old 03-26-2017, 02:19 AM   #69
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Re: Hard start question

Can you try pulling the plugs, and see if the motor spins freely?
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