Primer Questions

[Cameron_K10]

Alright guys I've gotten to the stage in my build where I start body work and paint. My truck is my daily driver and does not sit in a garage and will be out in the elements. I'm trying to do my body work panel by panel so my questions are.
1. If I sand down the paint on my truck apply my filler what comes next? Epoxy primer? Self etch primer? High build primer?
2. After I apply the primer how can I seal it and stop it from rusting? From my understanding epoxy primer seals its self so is that the way to go?
3. Would applying plasti dip over the primer seal it off so then I can primer the truck and paint it let's say a month from now?

Thank you guys for your input and help.

[Strizah]

I accidentally posted this twice can a mod please delete this.

[sevt_chevelle]

Not all primers are created equal nor were created to accomplish the same task. Some primers are meant for adhesion on bare metal and corrosion resistance other primers are meant to be used as a building primer.

This is what I would do and have done.

Strip a panel to bare metal and give it a good sanding with 80 grit on a DA.
Spray the panel with 2 coats of epoxy primer.
Do any bodywork and or body filler over the epoxy.
Respray any bare metal spots with epoxy.

For epoxy I like Southern Poly Urethanes or SPI.

Now high build primers are not very weather friendly, any long term exposure will wreck havoc on them. The sooner you apply paint over a high build primer the better.

The difference in an epoxy primer and a high build is what purpose they serve. Epoxy primer is an excellent primer for bare metal but typically has poor build properties and sands tough. A high build has poor bare metal adhesion and corrosion resistance but has great film build and sanding abilities.

Your typical paint job would have an epoxy base followed by high build and then your finish coat.

[Cameron_K10]

Originally Posted by sevt_chevelle

Not all primers are created equal nor were created to accomplish the same task. Some primers are meant for adhesion on bare metal and corrosion resistance other primers are meant to be used as a building primer.

This is what I would do and have done.

Strip a panel to bare metal and give it a good sanding with 80 grit on a DA.
Spray the panel with 2 coats of epoxy primer.
Do any bodywork and or body filler over the epoxy.
Respray any bare metal spots with epoxy.

For epoxy I like Southern Poly Urethanes or SPI.

Now high build primers are not very weather friendly, any long term exposure will wreck havoc on them. The sooner you apply paint over a high build primer the better.

The difference in an epoxy primer and a high build is what purpose they serve. Epoxy primer is an excellent primer for bare metal but typically has poor build properties and sands tough. A high build has poor bare metal adhesion and corrosion resistance but has great film build and sanding abilities.

Your typical paint job would have an epoxy base followed by high build and then your finish coat.

So if my truck is a daily driver is it okay to leave it primered in epoxy for a week or two if it's sitting outside? Also is there any brand that makes a decent rattle can epoxy?

[hugger6933]

Epoxy will be fine but if it sits after the window is closed[the "window" is the time you can apply another primer over the epoxy with either no sanding =just a day or so scuff with scotchbrite= up to a week or sanding with say 180 or 220 grit and recoating with one coat of epoxy= after a week].
I normally spray my epoxy to provide corrosion protection then when
I get back to it sand it with 180 then spray another coat or two of epoxy then the 2 to 3 coats of high build. You do need both to make for a good paint as the epoxy has protection but no fill and high build has great fill but no protection. If that makes sense.
so using the epoxy high build duo there is no need for the etching primer. I used a lot of it back in the late 80's and early 90's but I like the epoxy far better than the etch prime.
And lastly I'm not sure of a spray can epoxy, look at Auto Body Toolmart and see if they have it but you would be better off just getting something like the Omni MP172 I think it is. I use black for epoxy and grey for high build so it just helps to know if you have sanded out of high build and back down to epoxy. Jim

[BR3W CITY]

Fwiw I've used a few of the rattle-can "epoxy" primers, but I don't really have much faith in them. Epoxies need to be activated to trigger the chemical reaction, and those rattle cans are regular one-chemical sprays. Maybe they have some kind of oxidizing/uv reaction or something, but nothing when compared to the actual chemical curing/hardening of "real" epoxy based paints. You can feel the heat coming off epoxy reactions if its enough chemical in a small enough area.

[Foot Stomper]

There is one "rattle can" epoxy that is every bit as good as buying in gallons with an activator.
http://usa.spraymax.com/index.php?id=841

This is a true 2K epoxy that is activated when you break the seal.

Also, plasti dip will become a permanent coating applied to any primer.

[Cameron_K10]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

There is one "rattle can" epoxy that is every bit as good as buying in gallons with an activator.
http://usa.spraymax.com/index.php?id=841

This is a true 2K epoxy that is activated when you break the seal.

Also, plasti dip will become a permanent coating applied to any primer.

Is there a similar brand I can pick up at a local auto store instead of buying online?

[Foot Stomper]

No similar brands that I'm aware of. Very unique product. Is available at any reputable body shop supply store. It is distributed by US Chemicals and Plastics and every single body shop supply store knows how to buy from them. No, US Chem will not sell direct to consumers.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

Also, plasti dip will become a permanent coating applied to any primer.

Can you clarify what you mean? I've done dip over primer in a few different instances and nothing ever became permanent. Dip will react to any chemical coating that uses a Xylene-base thinner/carrier.

[Foot Stomper]

For clarification, plasti dip is reported to be a "peelable" coating and solvent bathing any coating to remove it is not recommended by any coatings manufacturer to my knowledge.
If Plasti Dip recommends a solvent bath I'm unaware of that.

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by Cameron_K10

Is there a similar brand I can pick up at a local auto store instead of buying online?

Eastwood makes a 2k can product. You push a plunger on the bottom and mix the can. You have to use it within a day or two.

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Eastwood makes a 2k can product. You push a plunger on the bottom and mix the can. You have to use it within a day or two.

That sure sounds like the same stuff. The pot life on the epoxy is about 5 days but the clear and urethane primer is about 24 to 48 hours.

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

That sure sounds like the same stuff. The pot life on the epoxy is about 5 days but the clear and urethane primer is about 24 to 48 hours.

I assume someone else makes it. I don't think Eastwood makes their own paint. Here is some of their 2k ceramic engine paint on my brothers LS.

[Jason Banks]

I have used the SPI Epoxy in Preval Sprayers from Home Depot. They are a little glass jar with a spray can propellant that screws on top. They work great. DIY Spray can Primer.

I have also used that Eastwood Ceramic Engine Paint in the Preval sprayers.

The sprayers are only $5 each and you can get another can of propellant for $4. I just kept refilling the glass jar and changing the propellant.

[MARTINSR]

Here is a review I did on the 2k epoxy aerosol can back oh my God, almost 10 years ago! Wow, anyway, here you go. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/solv...an-143345.html

Here is a whole paint job with aerosol that I did.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/comp...ew-158502.html


Brian