Dual Compressor Wiring

[protrash64]

Here's a pic of the project box location.

[N2TRUX]

I found a nice piece from Scosche today in an area Super Wal-Mart car audio section. It's odd that they had several of these in stock, but the part# doesn't readily come up on the Scosche site.

What the pic doesn't show is the clear cover that comes with it. It is low profile and lets the fuses stick through so they are clearly visible. The Scosche site list it for 24.95, but Wally had it for 9.99.

They diagram that comes with the "Fused Distribution Block" recommends the dual fuse block be mounted near the device, with a "High Amperage Wafer Fuse Holder" mounted near the battery.

[protrash64]

Thats the one I used N2TRUX. You can make out Scosche on the block. I should add another up front, too.

[N2TRUX]

After I posted I went back and looked at your again, and realized it was the same one. For point of reference, the distribution block is part # PDM48x2 and the large fuse holder is part# PWFHI

[kev2809]

thats perfect..one clean wire to the battery. looks like ill be picking one of those up.

[texastrendz]

why not run the compressors off of one 80 amp relay wired to a pressure switch from the tank? seems like less wiring to me.

[raycow]

One motor/compressor could be having a problem and not blow the shared higher amperage fuse. It is always safest to fuse motors separately.

Ray

[texastrendz]

why could you not fuse them individually

[raycow]

Individual fuses would be fine. For some reason, I envisioned a single fuse ahead of the relay. That was my mistake.

Ray

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by texastrendz

why not run the compressors off of one 80 amp relay wired to a pressure switch from the tank? seems like less wiring to me.

I thought about running a single PAC or Stinger relay. It would be cleaner, but would defeat the purpose of having a redundant system.

Originally Posted by raycow

Individual fuses would be fine. For some reason, I envisioned a single fuse ahead of the relay. That was my mistake.Ray

Looking it over once again, I feel thats the best way to run it.

From what I have found, a single heavy gauge wire should be fused near the battery, then ran to the distribution block. At the block it is split and fused individually then ran to separate relays. The relays are triggered by a single pressure switch.

I am curious if it would cause problems if you ran two pressure switches as well. Anyone have any experience with this?

[AVS_JASON]

http://www.avsontheweb.com/home.php?cat=323
http://www.avsontheweb.com/product.p...cat=323&page=1

protrash64- Wiring looks good hidden in the project box.
Also, 6awg is not overkill on those AZ comps. They draw a lot of amps and I would actually bump it up to 4awg if I were running them.

[N2TRUX]

Thanks for dropping in Jason. What do you recommend for the battery post? I am running side posts and didn't want the bulk connectors that Scoshse offers. I was thinking of something simple like the SoundQuest side post extension.

[67cheby]

setting here looking at all this wiring , i opened my desk drawer i have the exact same SCOSCHE fuse block in my top desk drawer..... i knew i saved that for a reason !!!

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

setting here looking at all this wiring , i opened my desk drawer i have the exact same SCOSCHE fuse block in my top desk drawer..... i knew i saved that for a reason !!!

They are the most reasonably priced way to junction wire short of a wire nut. Scosche also makes an unfused junction block to split and feed different items. I used one on the red loomed wires near the ms/cyl in the attached pic.

After thinking about this thread, I remembered that I did not fuse my power wire because I thought I mite add a second battery in the back of the 'burb and routed all the extra wire underneath to keep the extra length.

[AVS_JASON]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Thanks for dropping in Jason. What do you recommend for the battery post? I am running side posts and didn't want the bulk connectors that Scoshse offers. I was thinking of something simple like the SoundQuest side post extension.

A basic extension will work fine. Found one here at work a few months ago that my bro used on his caddy. And that one worked great.

[N2TRUX]

It's been rather hectic lately as I prepared for a local fun run to Galveston last Saturday. With that out of the way I was able to get back to my research. I stumbled across a couple things that really got my attention on the Ride Tech Forum. It was a quote by Britt answering a question about running dual compressors.

He stated "The (E3) LevelPro is designed to run two compressors (the secondary compressor turns on shortly after the primary to lower inrush current). So all you have to do is call the sales guys, purchase a harness, and plug it in."

That comment got me to thinking about the amount of amp draw it would take to run two pumps on start up. I felt all along it might be excessive, and this was a viable solution. Granted it helps that I already have the Ride Tech "Big Red" 4 way valves, so it made sense to dig deeper.


The Ride Tech site has a LOT of information to cover their extensive line of products, so it took some drilling to find what I needed. I ran across the "Suspension Tech" section and found an "instructions" page. On this page there is a long list of .pdf files that covered a plethora of detailed product info.

Under "e3 Compressor Guide" was the answer to my questions-

"If using two compressors, an
additional harness will attach
to the main power harness
(part #WIR8162). Attach the
blue wire from this harness to
the black wire on the second compressor and the second compressor red wire
to +12V.
• If you are running two compressors you will need an additional harness.
• Thomas Compressors (black) will require a 20 amp fuse (each).
• Viair Compressor (silver) will require a 30 amp fuse (each).
NOTE: The e3 system switched ground on the compressors,
the compressors are provided power at all times.

Hmm? So the e3 system will eliminate the need for relays at the compressor, AND it turns them on individually to reduce amp draw at start up. I think I have found what I am looking for.

[laid_out_70]

looks great/expensive

[XtremeBowtie]

I've always wanted to convert my RidePro E1 over to E3. If you go that route, would you be kind enough to take some pics?

And, here's another diagram I found over on S-10 Forum:

[blime81]

Wow N2TRUX, you really got me thinking on this one.

I really like the idea of the compressors kicking on a bit apart to minimize the draw.

I'm not about to buy the set up you mentioned (very nice but not in my budget) but it got me thinking about what else someone could do to setup their compressors like that.

Does anyone know how you could setup 1 compressor to have a delay off the relay?

I've been searching and perhaps my terms are wrong or something but surely someone has thought of this. I'm assuming that I would need some sort of a timer board?

Thanks in advance.

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by XtremeBowtie

I've always wanted to convert my RidePro E1 over to E3. If you go that route, would you be kind enough to take some pics?

And, here's another diagram I found over on S-10 Forum:


Attachment 610501

those little distr. blocks threw me off at first. on the one all the way to the right, where is that power wire going off to the right?

[XtremeBowtie]

Originally Posted by kev2809

those little distr. blocks threw me off at first. on the one all the way to the right, where is that power wire going off to the right?

I was wondering that too. The only thing I can figure is the wire was meant to go to the guy's stereo power.

[dropd80s]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I thought about running a single PAC or Stinger relay. It would be cleaner, but would defeat the purpose of having a redundant system. Looking it over once again, I feel thats the best way to run it.

From what I have found, a single heavy gauge wire should be fused near the battery, then ran to the distribution block. At the block it is split and fused individually then ran to separate relays. The relays are triggered by a single pressure switch.

I am curious if it would cause problems if you ran two pressure switches as well. Anyone have any experience with this?

Ken I would suggest to run the set up close to what you have described here with a few exceptions. I highly suggest running the PAC Hi Amp relay. The smaller bosch style relays work well, but the contacts seem to lose some of their continuity after time running a close to max amperage through them and need to be changed periodically. Also if the pressure switch is wired correctly through the low amp side of the relay you will hardly ever have trouble with it. The way I always run the power for my compressors is on large fuse or circuit breaker at the battery with larger gauge wire to the PAC relay then continue the large wire to the fuse block where each compressor is fused separately and two smaller gauge wires from there to the compressors. To me this will give you the cleanest setup with the most dependability. I run a manual switch in line with the pressure switch to turn those noisy things off if I need to.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by laid_out_70

looks great/expensive

It's not the cheapest route by any means, but I have multiple reasons for going this way.

Originally Posted by XtremeBowtie

I've always wanted to convert my RidePro E1 over to E3. If you go that route, would you be kind enough to take some pics?

Pics? What you thought I might not post pics. Thanks for the diagram...

Originally Posted by blime81

Wow N2TRUX, you really got me thinking on this one. I really like the idea of the compressors kicking on a bit apart to minimize the draw..

I like that this thread has encouraged you to consider alternative options. Lets see what you can dream up.

Originally Posted by dropd80s

Ken ... I highly suggest running the PAC Hi Amp relay.....

I am still looking at what relays to run. I agree that the 40 amp relays are right on the edge of their capability. More research to do...

[N2TRUX]

Yesterday I took a trip to Best Buy to purchase a 42" monitor for work. While I was there I went by the "Car Audio" section to see what they had. They stock rather limited product from three different manufacturers line. After a bit of comparing price, quality, etc I realized that Rockford Fosgate still holds up well to it's competitors.

Many years ago I competed in car stereo competition and was sponsored by Rockford Fosgate. In a show of loyalty to my roots, I loaded up on the latest RF supplies. Let me point out that their price was cheaper than the other brands available, so that had an impact on my decision too.

The first item on the list was a side post battery adapter. I needed a clean way to gain a good power source, and looking at all my options this worked best for my application. For reference, I am posting the RF price compared to the "other" well known brands.


Rockford Fosgate #RFDGM $2.81 compare to $7.99 for other brands

[N2TRUX]

I know I will need a length of 4AWG to provide power to the main fuse block, 100 amp relay, and fuse distribution block. I picked this kit to fill those needs.


Rockford Fosgate #RFCK-4 $18.78 compare to $29.99 for other brands