Different wiring harness

[halfstep]

VetteVet and anyone else - I would like your opinions on the Coach Controls wiring harness.
I will will be rewiring my 72 and am looking at different options. It seems hard to go wrong with an AAW kit, but I'd like to consider other options. If there is another "mousetrap" without glaring draw backs I'm game. One thing I like about this is that the fuse panel is not pre-wired. FWIW I have factory guages, no A/C but may add in the future along with power windows.

http://coachcontrols.com/index.php?m...products_id=85

[Andy4639]

That looks like a nice kit. I like the fact it has all your relays built into it and in one spot. I saved the link for future use maybe in the ramp truck. The price looks good to.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by halfstep

VetteVet and anyone else - I would like your opinions on the Coach Controls wiring harness.
I will will be rewiring my 72 and am looking at different options. It seems hard to go wrong with an AAW kit, but I'd like to consider other options. If there is another "mousetrap" without glaring draw backs I'm game. One thing I like about this is that the fuse panel is not pre-wired. FWIW I have factory guages, no A/C but may add in the future along with power windows.

http://coachcontrols.com/index.php?m...products_id=85

halfstep
Thanks for posting this.
This place is about 3 hours away from where I live.
I plan to go next week and get what I need for my build.

[VetteVet]

I'm not familiar with this kit but I do agree with Andy, it looks impressive. I totally like this part from their website.

The heart of our kit is the Power Center, distributing power through fuses and relays to 23 circuits. This means more power to your system for easier starting, brighter headlights, and better working power windows.

There's nothing wrong with an unwired fuse panel but a caution would be to make sure that all the fuses you wire to will support the amperage draw of the circuit you are fusing.
I think you know that anyway. VV

[Getter-Done]

VetteVet
I totally agree with the Amp draw
(Note: Less is More)
in the individual circuits.

halfstep
I talked with Ed Rodden on the phone Friday.
I have made copies of pages on the website.
I have highlighted most of my Questions.
I plan to visit Thursday.
I will post after my visit.
Do you have any Questions I could ask him?

[halfstep]

Thanks for all your responses - nice to get feedback from other more informed than myself.
One questions I have for Coach Controls would be: Is the wiring all direct connect to the panel and up to us to grommet a firewall pass through or is there some sort of bulkhead connector? Aside from that I'm sure you will report back with more information after meeting them !?
More general thoughts/questions I had aside from anyone having direct experience were:
1. relays on board vs closer to end subject?
2. they say you don't need a heavy duty light or ignition switch. For us I guess that just means our existing switches won't be subject to constant current? and what about that push button start?
3. Is the wiring of lights, running lights, turn signals, side lamps all essentially the same as with many of the available harnesses where you have to re-use, or replace and connect all the bulb and socket connections?
Thanks again for any responses

[Getter-Done]

halfstep
I have your questions written down.
I have copied the wiring diagram from
the FAQ for our trucks.
Going to a copy place to try to get it enlarged today.
This will help me lay out all my questions for Ed.
The Fuse/Relay block mounts anywhere you choose.
So anywhere the wires exit it will be up to the installer
to add a grommet(I'm pretty sure).
This is my first question for sure.
I will write your questions down and post back.
About your last question.
Another member shared this website on another thread.
which would be valuable in this thread of yours.
www.repairconnector.com .
Thanks again for posting this.
I think this is the perfect choice for my build.
I will be replacing the toe-panel.
So I can weld up the square place for original fuse block
and get a round grommet for the exit to engine harness.

[Getter-Done]

halfstep
I went to Coach Controls today.
Ed Rodden (President of company) Has Great knowledge of
Wiring, Relays and hands on what it takes to make
them work.
I purchased a Coupe-23B long wiring kit.
I had a Good conversation with him to verify that this
is what I need for my build.
I asked your Questions and will try to 3rd person translate
them the best I can.
This one:
Is the wiring all direct connect to the panel and up to us to grommet a firewall pass through or is there some sort of bulkhead connector?
Yes
Next:
1. relays on board vs closer to end subject?
Probably better to call and ask him on the phone
Any-way here is my translation.
This board can be mounted anywhere in the vehicle.
In his Mounting and Grounding instructions.
It has Two 100 amp MIDI fuse holders and fuses are included with this kit. One of the 100 amp fuses
protects the wires connecting the battery and alternator, the other protects the Power Center. TWO
SEPARATE 10 AWG WIRES SUPPLY BATTERY POWER TO THE POWER CENTER.
So in my opinion In our Trucks this system best location is
where the original fuse block was.

2. they say you don't need a heavy duty light or ignition switch. For us I guess that just means our existing switches won't be subject to constant current? and what about that push button start?
They would be correct the relays take the most of the load off
the switch. Push button can used in this system As Long as there is
a Neutral Safety switch in the system. Auto trans is simple.
With manuel trans you would have to (Blah BlaH Blah)

3. Is the wiring of lights, running lights, turn signals, side lamps all essentially the same as with many of the available harnesses where you have to re-use, or replace and connect all the bulb and socket connections?
My kit includes the connections and More than enough wire.
Plus it includes Laminated wiring diagram.

I can take pics of any or all of the box of Goods I got today.
Again I am not trying to take over your thread.
I am just glad you started it.
I will make sure to take pics and include step by step in my build thread.
It will be awhile before I get to that step though.
So I wouldn't mind sharing pictures of the stuff I purchased today.
Hope this helps you with your project.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

halfstep
I went to Coach Controls today.
Ed Rodden (President of company) Has Great knowledge of
Wiring, Relays and hands on what it takes to make
them work.
I purchased a Coupe-23B long wiring kit.
I had a Good conversation with him to verify that this
is what I need for my build.
I asked your Questions and will try to 3rd person translate
them the best I can.
This one:
Is the wiring all direct connect to the panel and up to us to grommet a firewall pass through or is there some sort of bulkhead connector?
Yes
Next:
1. relays on board vs closer to end subject?
Probably better to call and ask him on the phone
Any-way here is my translation.
This board can be mounted anywhere in the vehicle.
In his Mounting and Grounding instructions.
It has Two 100 amp MIDI fuse holders and fuses are included with this kit. One of the 100 amp fuses
protects the wires connecting the battery and alternator, the other protects the Power Center. TWO
SEPARATE 10 AWG WIRES SUPPLY BATTERY POWER TO THE POWER CENTER.
So in my opinion In our Trucks this system best location is
where the original fuse block was.

2. they say you don't need a heavy duty light or ignition switch. For us I guess that just means our existing switches won't be subject to constant current? and what about that push button start?
They would be correct the relays take the most of the load off
the switch. Push button can used in this system As Long as there is
a Neutral Safety switch in the system. Auto trans is simple.
With manuel trans you would have to (Blah BlaH Blah)

3. Is the wiring of lights, running lights, turn signals, side lamps all essentially the same as with many of the available harnesses where you have to re-use, or replace and connect all the bulb and socket connections?
My kit includes the connections and More than enough wire.
Plus it includes Laminated wiring diagram.

I can take pics of any or all of the box of Goods I got today.
Again I am not trying to take over your thread.
I am just glad you started it.
I will make sure to take pics and include step by step in my build thread.
It will be awhile before I get to that step though.
So I wouldn't mind sharing pictures of the stuff I purchased today.
Hope this helps you with your project.

Good info and yes pictures of the product would be nice. What size relays are they using and are they aftermarket ones are GM ones. GM relays want work with aftermarket harneses.

[Getter-Done]

The relays will be in the first pictures.
They are CB1-P-12V ACB13101 80624M 2500.
There are 4 of those that are 40 amp for the bigger circuits.
There are smaller ones for the smaller circuits pictured below.
They are soldered in for longevity.
They have Life-Time warranty.
The Electronic flasher is removable and the fuses are regular blade fuses.
It has two 100 amp MIDI fuse that protect the power center.

[Getter-Done]

Here is pictures of the whole kit.
1st pic is the big gage wires.
2nd is all the wires.
3rd is the whole kit.

[Andy4639]

Very nice! I may go this route on the ramp truck for all the accessaries being added.

I'm wondering about the relays though! You say they soldered them in? How do you replace them?

[Getter-Done]

Andy 4639
I will try to answer as best as I can.
The Power Center has a Lifetime Warranty
(unless the installer fry's it by incorrect installation)
I talked with Ed about the relays. It was my first Question.
Loose connections is eliminated with soldering.
He said he has not had any problems with Relay's .
Here is his contact info.
Tel: 423-790-7905
email: info@coachcontrols.com
The circuit board can be removed.
I will show 2 pictures below.
You can re-solder the relay's yourself if you wanted too.
The circuit board looks better than some of the stuff
I have seen on newer vehicles.
I considered taking wiring from a donor vehicle.
For the money verses time I'm choosing this route.



2nd picture shows hexagon stands.
(there is one on each corner)
These could be removed if you ever needed to.

[Andy4639]

That is what I was thinking to get a late model fuse block out of a GM truck and use in my ramp truck for all the relays and such. This seems to be a better choice as you stated by the time you take it out and reuse it. Thanks for the pictures and the info.

[halfstep]

Getter-Done,
Thanks for the good follow up, write up and photo's - keep it coming.
I like what I see and glad to get another product/vendor/approach into the mix.
I've been pretty occupied recently but will likely have more questions later.
Thanks again.

[Getter-Done]

Your Welcome
I hope to do a Step by Step in my Build Thread.
I already have some pics posted in my build.
That's going to be awhile till that step thou.
I am currently working on the cab.
I wanted my wiring in hand so it looks
good and is mounted where it is easy to get to.