Steering arm removal

[mjensen]

So, I've been really struggling to get my stock steering arm off so that I could put the raised arm for the lift kit on. Well, after weeks of searching, I stumbled upon some advice posted by see ten about using a socket over the studs and hitting it with a BFH to get the cone washers to pop loose. It worked like a freaking champ! I've spent hours banging, soaking and heating that bad boy. The socket trick had the cones out in about 10 minutes. Destroyed the Mac socket, but it was well worth the sacrifice! Thanks see ten!

[Dale99]

Can you link to where you found this trick? I tried removing mine and quickly gave up.

[mjensen]

Here's the post. So I used a 1-1/8" impact deep socket and when placing on the arm, I made sure it wasn't touching the cone washer. I then took a big swing, retrieved the socket and repeated. The first one came out on the first swing, but the other two took 3 or 4 big swings each. One thing I noticed is that the washers were popped up a little higher (they didn't just fall out), and at that point I could work them out with some pliers. Once I had the cone washers sitting on the floor, I was able to use a smaller hammer and "gently" work the arm off the knuckle.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...54&postcount=9

[Dale99]

Thanks. Will move this up on my priority list.

[tim71]

I know this post is old but thought I would throw in my 2 cents worth of knowledge. I've spent a couple hours a day for the past 3 or 4 days trying to remove the raised steering arm off my K1500. I am lowering my truck back to stock height. I was trying to remove arm with axle under truck so this limits your options somewhat. I alternated between 1 and 1/16 socket over cone washers(hitting top of socket) and just plain beating on arm with a sledge hammer. Full size sledge with restricted short whacks. I can't say the socket method did any good, maybe it would if axle was not under truck and you could swing crazy hard. I think what broke mine free was a series of continuous hits from drag link hole in arm to about where the arm turns. I was real close to giving up when one of the hits of the pattern I was using went soft, the arm was free. All 3 cone washers went loose at same time. I used a punch and the cone washers backed out. A few revolutions with punch and then they screwed out by hand. During the process, I had been trying to turn the cone washers with a punch, but I could never get them to move. Maybe this effort helped the hammering process. I also soaked PB Blaster on to the studs each day. Not a fun task, just need a lot of patience.

[mongocanfly]

that's how I got mine off Tim...hitting that arm

[sweetk30]

best i ever got was pure luck otherwise i had better luck pulling the hub/rotor and backing plate and hammer the side of the arm with a 4lb mini hammer .

[Richard]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

best i ever got was pure luck otherwise i had better luck pulling the hub/rotor and backing plate and hammer the side of the arm with a 4lb mini hammer .

I have removed quite few stock and raised arms and this is what I found works best. A BFH on the arm right next to the studs. Had one axle with a block under the arm and the studs sheared off flush with the top of the knuckle, luckily right in my driveway (purchased truck this way, would not recommend). That was fun getting those pieces out! BTW my favorite penetrating oil is now WD40 rust release formula. I have had great success with it. Even exhaust bolts seem to come loose easily after spraying/soaking for several days in a row.

[mygmctruck1]

well I just had to remove mine on 68 K1500 . I tried the socket trick no luck , soaked the cone washers with every thing I had . Took some advice off the site and used a screw driver and drove the washer in a circle back and forth to loosen it up. took a bit but that's what worked for me.
That was one part of the equation , the arm was still stuck on the threads ( rust ! ) I had to drive a screw driver into the joint to start separating the arm from the knuckle , then move up to a wider wedge ,etc . got it off but in the process , ruined 2 of the thin metal shims. There are 6 total.

Not sure why 6 but there has to be a reason , each shim is thicker than paper but thinner than a file folder. Just how important are they ?

Anyone know about these things ?

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by mygmctruck1

well I just had to remove mine on 68 K1500 . I tried the socket trick no luck , soaked the cone washers with every thing I had . Took some advice off the site and used a screw driver and drove the washer in a circle back and forth to loosen it up. took a bit but that's what worked for me.
That was one part of the equation , the arm was still stuck on the threads ( rust ! ) I had to drive a screw driver into the joint to start separating the arm from the knuckle , then move up to a wider wedge ,etc . got it off but in the process , ruined 2 of the thin metal shims. There are 6 total.

Not sure why 6 but there has to be a reason , each shim is thicker than paper but thinner than a file folder. Just how important are they ?

Anyone know about these things ?

They are very important. That is how you preload the bearings. Check out the 4WD section of the factory manual. Not sure what it says for your year, but the manual for the 60-66 trucks shows two ways to set the preload, depending on if you have the knuckle apart or not, as I recall. Anyway, if you read that part it all makes sense.
Fortunately you can still get the shims at Torque King 4x4. Great people to know for those of us with an old truck addiction.
Good luck with the project,
Tom

[mygmctruck1]

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

They are very important. That is how you preload the bearings. Check out the 4WD section of the factory manual. Not sure what it says for your year, but the manual for the 60-66 trucks shows two ways to set the preload, depending on if you have the knuckle apart or not, as I recall. Anyway, if you read that part it all makes sense.
Fortunately you can still get the shims at Torque King 4x4. Great people to know for those of us with an old truck addiction.
Good luck with the project,
Tom

Thanks , who would have thought .