Installing L31 to 700R4 questions

[msg]

Im about to install a new L31 to a 700r4 in my 66 C10 and I before I go at it I was wondering a few things.

Is it ok to use the same bolts that attached the flexplate to the 350 I had, or replace? If replace is there a place to get them that I can be sure its of the same specs as the originals? Ill post a pic of the bolts I have.

Whats the best way to get the torque specs in this case for all the connections Ill need since its not going to be in my 63 and 66 manuals?

Is the counterweight supposed to face the engine or torque converter?

Are washers supposed to be used in connecting the flexplate to the torque converter? Ill post a pic of how it looked when i disconnected it from the 350 years go.

Also any tips you all might have would be appreciated.

[msg]

pic of the flexplate bolts to the engine block I have

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pic of the spacers I mentioned to the torque converter

[Captainfab]

The torque converter bolts directly to the flexplate, no washers in between. I don't know if the 2pc rear main flexplate bolts will work on a1pc rear main crank

[msg]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The torque converter bolts directly to the flexplate, no washers in between. I don't know if the 2pc rear main flexplate bolts will work on a1pc rear main crank

I wonder why the shop that did the 700r4 conversion for me years ago would have used all those washers? Looks like the bolt heads may have not been able to sit in the recessed area on the torque converter. Ill have to check with them.

I had an issue today when I opened up the flexplate that I had ordered from summit and it ended up not lining up right with the starter I have. I checked with Summits tech line and they said I would need a 153 toothed flexplate vs the 163 I had bought by mistake. They recommended this one instead.

https://www.summitracing.com/oh/part...make/chevrolet

[The Rocknrod]

Yep, staggered starters use the 163 tooth larger flywheel. You have a 1 piece rear main seal on your engine?

[msg]

I believe so, at least thats what it reads in the description

here is what I bought

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12681432

In over my head as usual

[Bigdav160]

The flexplate weight faces the engine.

Make sure to use the proper torque converter bolts. If they are too long and dimple the cover the lockup clutch will be ruined.

I wonder if that's why they used those silly spacers - wrong bolts

[msg]

Thanks, I took some pics of the bolt and plate installed. I installed as a test the old flexplate to see if it mounts flush with the bolts without the spacers and it does. Assuming these are the right sized bolts, is it best to replace the bolts at this point or is it fine to reuse? I may have drove 300 to 400 miles after they did the swap before I lost it and decided to do a complete restoration and pulled the truck apart.

[msg]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I don't know if the 2pc rear main flexplate bolts will work on a1pc rear main crank

The bolts from the 350 i pulled do thread into the new engine. Would you reuse these or buy new? Not sure they are original.

[PGSigns]

I would order new ARP bolts for both.
Jimmy

[msg]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

I would order new ARP bolts for both.
Jimmy

ARP bolts, never knew about them. Had to look it up.

[msg]

Ive ordered the arp bolts and was bolting things up and there is about a 1/2 inch gap between the torque converter and the flexplate. The torque converter was fully seated meaning pushed in all the way and then I loosley mounted the bell housing to the engine to see what the gap may be. Is it normal to have that much of a gap? Would pulling it out to meet the flexpate without adding washers be the right thing to do?

I took a paint stick and broke it to be able to slide in to take a measurement. I marked the gap with a black sharpie and measured it.

[msg]

From what Im reading on some other sites there should be 1/8 to 1/4 inch play between the torque converter and the flexplate when the TC is fully seated. More than that and the pump tabs arent engaged. So maybe thats why the shop before used the washers. If this is accurate information there needs to to be 2 or 3 washers added to get me to the 1/4 gap thats the limit.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...er-gap.124846/

[Bigdav160]

It looks fine to me. Use a large screwdriver or small prybar and push it up to the flexplate.