cab rust repair - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Stroker · 03-28-2003, 08:23 PM

Wondering what is the best way to go about repairing the cab. Here's a few pics of the kickpanel, lower pillar and floorpan. The rockers and corners are rusted but still reasonably solid cab mounts look to be in good shape. Would it be best to work from the inside out starting with the floor pans and kick panels first.Then move to the pillar rockers and cab corners. Thanks....Stroker

Stroker · 03-28-2003, 08:27 PM

inside view

Stroker · 03-28-2003, 08:33 PM

from the bottom

Stroker · 03-28-2003, 08:36 PM

Let's try that again. Sorry

Hooter · 03-29-2003, 01:32 AM

If I were You i'd get the cab all sandblasted, then replace whatever metal is easily replacables, seal the rest of the metal up with Por 15 and epoxy the small stuff, and undercoat the heck out of it to prevent it from going any further.

Bagged72 · 03-29-2003, 03:20 AM

In mine, I just cut everything out from the rocker in and started fresh. It looks like yours is much more solid though. It was easiest for me to put the new kickpanels and lower door jambs in then move to the rockers then to the floor. Just take your time and make sure to brace the cab to avoid flexing.

Blue Beard · 03-29-2003, 10:28 AM

Before you start cutting anything out..........tack weld braces in to keep things aligned when your done......

Seen several posts where things didn't align right after doing thins like the rockers............Seen this done on some of the trucking shows too...........

dubie · 03-29-2003, 12:07 PM

Man, that looks pretty nice compared to mine :d My cab supports aren't even attatched to the inner rockers, come to think of it I have no inner rockers

I would say sandblast it all, and do some under coating. It looks nice and solid to me

Dreaminator · 03-29-2003, 03:53 PM

Mine was much worse. have you got any rust though under the gas tank? Just remember to keep the cab straight when you start cutting. I was amazed how my cab torqued after six weeks of blasting, cutting, patching, and coating.

Stroker · 03-29-2003, 07:09 PM

Dreaminator under the tank looks good, the cab corners just have a few holes about 1/8 diameter rusted thru . Most of the rust damage apears to have come from the inside rather than from under the cab. The rockers are rusted toward the front and the entire pinch weld where the door seal goes is gone. Must have had some water or dirt trapped there for a long time. Thanks for all the advise, I had been wondering if bracing would be a good idea. Thanks again....Stroker

teeitup · 03-29-2003, 10:48 PM

Looks like you've been busy Kelly! Hope it was all OK! Randy

68_Step · 03-29-2003, 11:15 PM

Where would good points to tack weld in the braces?

**1971Stepside** · 03-31-2003, 11:24 AM

I am currently doing these same repairs to my cab and what you will find is that the lower pillar, kick panel, floor, and floor support all tie in together behind the pillar. These have to go back in in the correct order. I started by sandblasting the entire cab and putting it back in primer. I removed the rockers, bad parts in the floor, floor supports and bad part of the kick panel. I only did one side at a time so I always had another side to measure from and verify my work. Anyway, once all that was removed I cut the lower pillar off and welded the new piece in. The the kick panel, then the floor. Hope this helps.

03-28-2003, 08:23 PM	#1
Stroker Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Moore, Ok Posts: 1,149	cab rust repair Wondering what is the best way to go about repairing the cab. Here's a few pics of the kickpanel, lower pillar and floorpan. The rockers and corners are rusted but still reasonably solid cab mounts look to be in good shape. Would it be best to work from the inside out starting with the floor pans and kick panels first.Then move to the pillar rockers and cab corners. Thanks....Stroker Attached Images __________________ 72 SWB parts and pieces Oklahoma

03-28-2003, 08:27 PM	#2
Stroker Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Moore, Ok Posts: 1,149	inside view Attached Images __________________ 72 SWB parts and pieces Oklahoma

03-28-2003, 08:33 PM	#3
Stroker Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Moore, Ok Posts: 1,149	from the bottom __________________ 72 SWB parts and pieces Oklahoma

03-28-2003, 08:36 PM	#4
Stroker Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Moore, Ok Posts: 1,149	Let's try that again. Sorry Attached Images __________________ 72 SWB parts and pieces Oklahoma

03-29-2003, 01:32 AM	#5
Hooter My other Love Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Castlegar B.C. Canada Posts: 4,078	If I were You i'd get the cab all sandblasted, then replace whatever metal is easily replacables, seal the rest of the metal up with Por 15 and epoxy the small stuff, and undercoat the heck out of it to prevent it from going any further. __________________ MEMBER DISCS UP FRONT CLUB 69 custom camper/cst 10 70 monte carlo 383 stroker with a 700r4 77 fully loaded silverado (back in the backyard for a little while longer) 1980 BMW 320i (back in the garage finally) 1981 f@*d f150 4x4 (Robert red ford) tried to kill me 1972 Honda ct 90 trailbike Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Eh!) Hooter_5@hotmail.com AC/DC RULES!!! First generation Monte Carlo club pictures of my life

03-29-2003, 03:20 AM	#6
Bagged72 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Saint Paul Minnesota Posts: 53	In mine, I just cut everything out from the rocker in and started fresh. It looks like yours is much more solid though. It was easiest for me to put the new kickpanels and lower door jambs in then move to the rockers then to the floor. Just take your time and make sure to brace the cab to avoid flexing. __________________ 72 Chevy Longbed. Being bagged and shaved. To be Completed by Carcraft 03

03-29-2003, 10:28 AM	#7
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,834	Before you start cutting anything out..........tack weld braces in to keep things aligned when your done...... Seen several posts where things didn't align right after doing thins like the rockers............Seen this done on some of the trucking shows too........... __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

03-29-2003, 12:07 PM	#8
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,855	Man, that looks pretty nice compared to mine :d My cab supports aren't even attatched to the inner rockers, come to think of it I have no inner rockers I would say sandblast it all, and do some under coating. It looks nice and solid to me __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

03-29-2003, 03:53 PM	#9
Dreaminator Dreaminator Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma Posts: 156	Mine was much worse. have you got any rust though under the gas tank? Just remember to keep the cab straight when you start cutting. I was amazed how my cab torqued after six weeks of blasting, cutting, patching, and coating. __________________ The Dreaminator Daily Driver 1971 Cheyenne 10 Lwb Tilt/Tac 402 .030 TH400.

03-29-2003, 07:09 PM	#10
Stroker Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Moore, Ok Posts: 1,149	Dreaminator under the tank looks good, the cab corners just have a few holes about 1/8 diameter rusted thru . Most of the rust damage apears to have come from the inside rather than from under the cab. The rockers are rusted toward the front and the entire pinch weld where the door seal goes is gone. Must have had some water or dirt trapped there for a long time. Thanks for all the advise, I had been wondering if bracing would be a good idea. Thanks again....Stroker __________________ 72 SWB parts and pieces Oklahoma

03-29-2003, 10:48 PM	#11
teeitup Just like to part out trucks!! Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Meriden, Ks-North of Topeka 10 miles Posts: 27,396	Looks like you've been busy Kelly! Hope it was all OK! Randy __________________ 67 Chev swb stepside 4x4 283 4 speed SOLD 72 blazer 4x4 4 speed Cheyenne 72 GMC swb 4x4 fleet 4 speed, original paint 1958 Cameo (one of 1405 built, it was my dads) 2020 chevy Apex 4x4 crew cab 1969 Z28 with the 302 1980 chevy swb 4x4 1964 chevell Malibu SS 1976 K20, sold new originally out of my dads chevy dealership Members that I've met, over 200 probably closer to 300 in the 12 years I've been on this site, everyone I met "It was a pleasure"

03-29-2003, 11:15 PM	#12
68_Step Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Marshfield, MO Posts: 355	Where would good points to tack weld in the braces?

03-31-2003, 11:24 AM	#13
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,928	cab... I am currently doing these same repairs to my cab and what you will find is that the lower pillar, kick panel, floor, and floor support all tie in together behind the pillar. These have to go back in in the correct order. I started by sandblasting the entire cab and putting it back in primer. I removed the rockers, bad parts in the floor, floor supports and bad part of the kick panel. I only did one side at a time so I always had another side to measure from and verify my work. Anyway, once all that was removed I cut the lower pillar off and welded the new piece in. The the kick panel, then the floor. Hope this helps. Attached Images __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."



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