One piece windows

[tcoop68]

Got a question have any of you installed this one piece kit from brothers I’m installing mine and on the back rail it’s up against my door latch and you can’t push the outside door button it’s rubbing against it to hard instructions say to cut that piece down to 19” so I did after taking original nut bracket off it just lays in the original window channel loose it originally had a bolt at the top which screwed into the piece they said to remove any ideas why thanks in advance

[SchmidtM]

I have mine ordered, its on a 45-60 day lead time

[loudchevy]

I was looking at these kits as well. My vents are trashed and it will hundreds to get them clean and stock. I've watched a few YT videos on the install and it looked pretty straight forward but i've read mixed reviews on this forum about the kits.

I also found this 1pc kit from One Piece Products. It's a little more $$
https://www.onepieceproducts.com/196...-glass-kit/p45

Looing forward to seeing the other responses.

[tcoop68]

I found out my problem got them installed good luck to everyone that buys them.

[loudchevy]

Originally Posted by tcoop68

I found out my problem got them installed good luck to everyone that buys them.

Are you happy with how it turned out? Would you recommend others do the swap?

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

Are you happy with how it turned out? Would you recommend others do the swap?

I’m in the middle of installing my one piece window kit from Brothers Truck.

No, I would not recommend these to anyone.

The original front window guide, was the triangle window. It was riveted to the vent window in several places, and bolted to the inside of the door panel with two bolts..it also used three screws that attached the vent window to the door frame. Read, mounted solid! Lasted for 50+ years.
The new window guide...is the small triangle piece they send you...it uses the bottom screw that goes through the door frame, and bolts to the small piece, pulling it into the corner of the window. (That’s one screw) Now I have two more tapered holes on the front side of the door frame with nothing in there...
The entire front channel guide is pushed into this triangle at the top, and only uses a 1/4” screw at the very bottom of the channel to hold it to the front of the door. It’s a sheet metal screw...doesn’t even have a nut on the back to hold it tight. (This is the second screw that holds the front channel in place)

The rear channel was bolted on the door jam side, which held the top portion...the bottom was again, bolted to the inside of the door with two bolts.
After you cut that channel down, and attach two pieces of metal to the portion that was bolted to the inside of the door, you now only use one bolt to hold the entire rear channel in place. There is nothing on the door jam side to hold the channel up top...except the door seal itself...so, you have another empty hole in the door.

I should mention, there were no instructions in the box that the window kit came in...so I have had to watch their video no less than a dozen times, so I could see if they missed a step, and maybe catch a glimpse of another bolt holding things together that isn’t mentioned in the video...but, no luck.

Anyone else have better luck?

Oh, I got the drivers side done, and it is a complete PITA to open and close the window. Yes, I measured everything...yes the glass lines up with the bottom of the sash, or whatever they call it...

Poor quality, and a gap that you can see right through to the outside from that little triangle piece....it’s either gotta be siliconed or welded somehow...but the pieces they send are aluminum...not steel.

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

I’m in the middle of installing my one piece window kit from Brothers Truck.

No, I would not recommend these to anyone.

The original front window guide, was the triangle window. It was riveted to the vent window in several places, and bolted to the inside of the door panel with two bolts..it also used three screws that attached the vent window to the door frame. Read, mounted solid! Lasted for 50+ years.
The new window guide...is the small triangle piece they send you...it uses the bottom screw that goes through the door frame, and bolts to the small piece, pulling it into the corner of the window. (That’s one screw) Now I have two more tapered holes on the front side of the door frame with nothing in there...
The entire front channel guide is pushed into this triangle at the top, and only uses a 1/4” screw at the very bottom of the channel to hold it to the front of the door. It’s a sheet metal screw...doesn’t even have a nut on the back to hold it tight. (This is the second screw that holds the front channel in place)

The rear channel was bolted on the door jam side, which held the top portion...the bottom was again, bolted to the inside of the door with two bolts.
After you cut that channel down, and attach two pieces of metal to the portion that was bolted to the inside of the door, you now only use one bolt to hold the entire rear channel in place. There is nothing on the door jam side to hold the channel up top...except the door seal itself...so, you have another empty hole in the door.

I should mention, there were no instructions in the box that the window kit came in...so I have had to watch their video no less than a dozen times, so I could see if they missed a step, and maybe catch a glimpse of another bolt holding things together that isn’t mentioned in the video...but, no luck.

Anyone else have better luck?

Oh, I got the drivers side done, and it is a complete PITA to open and close the window. Yes, I measured everything...yes the glass lines up with the bottom of the sash, or whatever they call it...

Poor quality, and a gap that you can see right through to the outside from that little triangle piece....it’s either gotta be siliconed or welded somehow...but the pieces they send are aluminum...not steel.

thanks for sharing that info.... I almost put an order in 6 Mos or so they looked flimsy on the video so I bit the bullet and ordered new repop wing windows instead ....

[71 super]

So I have had the opposite review of this product. Not sure why no instructions with yours but mine came with multiple page instructions. The kit is easier to install with doors off. I used nu relic 15* switches and electric life regulators and the are as smooth as can be with no wind noise. The hardest parts are drilling the lower front locator hole for front run channel and the trimming of the hinge check arms for clearance. This is not a quick and easy job, expect a weekend and some adjustments to be required. The long lead is due to issue with the sourcing of front triangle piece. Again everyone’s experiences are different but this is a good kit . Get and read directions and watch both videos from brothers about installation. The other option is one piece products and theirs is definitely more involved and will not work with trique latches, the brothers kit will.

[loudchevy]

Thanks for the updates on the installs. The mixed results is what I've seen from all my lougle searches as well.

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

Thanks for the updates on the installs. The mixed results is what I've seen from all my lougle searches as well.

I’m gonna try installing new window regulator to see if it helps at all.
I ended up having to pull the window regulator out, then take out the screw on the bottom of the front channel, and then insert the window, and slide it up and down several times to see where it would move the easiest.
Had to redrill the bottom hole for the screw.
I also added a riv-nut to the top of the back channel.
Yes, it lays against the door latch, with a gap...so I drilled a hole in the channel, and installed the riv-nut from inside the channel, towards the door latch. (Bottom portion of riv-nut pointing towards the door latch)
Inserted the stock screw, and tightened up.
Way more sturdy, and less flopping around of the glass.

[71 super]

I am not going to lie, the glass is a pain to get in, but once in and the front channel is bolted in tracks very smooth and no binding. Initially I had a binding issue, but that was in the sash adjustment. After taking the sash out and adjusting the glass in the sash all was good. I will also say it is not easier on the second window, it averaged 1.5 hours with regulators and adjustments to install each side, regular glass and vent windows are a few minutes job. As I stated before, it is much easier with doors removed as you can get to the lower bottom bolt and the trique latches actually made the upper rear bolt easier to do. I tacked a 1/4-20 nut to backside of the upper track similar to what the factory did to ease installation of the upper track on around the latch. I can go into more detail but it really is a feel your way through it type of install. Still say it is worth it but you will definitely have a time investment.

[Extended Power]

71 super can you explain your window sash adjustment, or provide a link to watch so I can try this?
As mentioned before, I didn't get instructions with mine, but if they are the same as the pictures on Vanatta Fabrications site, I have looked at those too.
Thank you for any help.

[71 super]

When I first installed glass in runs and doors, I put them in without the setting tape and adjusted by sliding ( no regulator) up and down in run channel. After I found the location, I marked with sharpie and then used the mark to locate in sash and set with the setting tape

[71 super]

Pics

[71 super]

Pics 2