stance and wheel size

[FAKKY]

Axle swaps at front and back......

Trying to work out

1) stance. I put the axle under the springs like stock as I don't want to C notch the frame ... However starting to worry to much of a rake .... How can you tell before weight added and tires added ?

2) wheel and tire size. Mainly due to how rear wheels will fit with total size and offset given how they tuck under fenders. Was really just going to measure width of clearance from middle of wheel to inner fender and same again to outer fender. Then that will give mqx clearance/width .....

Then difference in two will be offset.

Not sure how else to be more accurate ..... As going to need some room to get wheels and tires in ........

Trying to not spend $500 on tires and wheels to find out they won't fit. No idea in front till sheet metal goes back on.

[joedoh]

looks like a good 6 inches between the centerlines of the hubs front to rear, even if the rear settles 4 inches and the front only two, thats still 4 inches difference. people often find their destiny on the path they take to avoid it (kung fu panda!), maybe a c notch/axle flip is in your future.

to find out how much each will settle is easy, put a jack under the pumpkin and jack it up till the truck just comes off the stands. same with the front, jack under the lower arm till it just comes up off the stand. viola, amount of "squish" is accounted for. add a slight amount for the front suspension. my guess is the front wont squish much but will settle over time, so maybe add an inch just to be safe.

how you said you would measure, that is how you find wheel widths, how you said, but dont forget that a 7 inch wide wheel is actually 8 inches wide lip to lip, there is a 1/2" bead on each side of the wheel. I dont know what diameter you are going for but tires with a lot of sidewall can actually bulge out over the edge of the rim, so use your tire spec as total width. for example a 235/75/15 will be 235mm wide at its widest point, NOT the tread width (which can be and usually is narrower) so use the 235 as the maximum width, which is 9.6 inches wide, even on a 7 inch wide wheel!

if you want to see the size of the tires visually, there are some good tire calculators on google and they will not only show you the width but also give you an overall diameter. you can take that overall diameter divide by 2 and measure down from the center of the hub that amount (jack under axle or control arm like mentioned above) and you can see your actual ride height with the chosen tire size.

good luck!

[mongocanfly]

You could also ,if you can find one ,get yourself a spare tire as close to the height tire your wanting to run.put it on the truck with the trucks weight compressing the suspension.and with a little measuring it will give you an idea of clearance inside and out..and how low you can go

[mongocanfly]

And theres always this way.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=530806

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

looks like a good 6 inches between the centerlines of the hubs front to rear, even if the rear settles 4 inches and the front only two, thats still 4 inches difference. people often find their destiny on the path they take to avoid it (kung fu panda!), maybe a c notch/axle flip is in your future.

to find out how much each will settle is easy, put a jack under the pumpkin and jack it up till the truck just comes off the stands. same with the front, jack under the lower arm till it just comes up off the stand. viola, amount of "squish" is accounted for. add a slight amount for the front suspension. my guess is the front wont squish much but will settle over time, so maybe add an inch just to be safe.

how you said you would measure, that is how you find wheel widths, how you said, but dont forget that a 7 inch wide wheel is actually 8 inches wide lip to lip, there is a 1/2" bead on each side of the wheel. I dont know what diameter you are going for but tires with a lot of sidewall can actually bulge out over the edge of the rim, so use your tire spec as total width. for example a 235/75/15 will be 235mm wide at its widest point, NOT the tread width (which can be and usually is narrower) so use the 235 as the maximum width, which is 9.6 inches wide, even on a 7 inch wide wheel!

if you want to see the size of the tires visually, there are some good tire calculators on google and they will not only show you the width but also give you an overall diameter. you can take that overall diameter divide by 2 and measure down from the center of the hub that amount (jack under axle or control arm like mentioned above) and you can see your actual ride height with the chosen tire size.

good luck!

Thanks joedoh
That make sense - so I jacked it up and it definately looked better (stance). The leaf springs almost fully straighten and as such dont give a lot of clearance before bottoming out - but that is how it was when I got it. Id rather not deal with the cnotch at this stage .....get it running ..... and then determine the approach .... eg airbags, new leafs whatever and whatever else is required for clearance. Id live with a rake - I like the look - just not a super aggresive one.

I measure the wheel well and there is just over 12" of clearance side to side at top of well.
The backside is probably 5.5" of clearance meaning the frontside is almost 7".

However at lower inside corner of wheel arch (LIP) its closer to 5" from WMS to lower fender lip. As long as the axle is center or I dont go way big dont think this will be an issue.

So in my estimation ..... means I should be able to fit a 9" wheel (around 235) ..... and probably go with 16" rims.

Just a slight offset to push on side where I have an extra inch (frontside).

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

And theres always this way.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=530806

Thanks mongocanfly - nice videos.

[FAKKY]