1974 C20 Soon to become a project...

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by midnight rambler

I like that wish I had the money

I hear that. It's taken three years to set the funds aside to work in the project.

The nice thing about Speedhut gauges is, you can save the design you make and buy one gauge at a time if you want to. It's sometimes easier to do that, than try and save the whole amount before buying.

[midnight rambler]

im thinking of that right after I get the exhaust done.. need to get the GPS speedo first, rewire everything lol 2g at least. your truck is looking real nice like where your going with it.

[y5mgisi]

That is going to be way too cool. I like how the small gauges have full sweep also instead of how some only have like a 30* sweep. I think this style would make for better accuracy. Especially like it for the fuel gauge!

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

My bad... Chip Woyner is in Branson Missouri, not Tennessee. This is what I will be doing to my C20 and my daughters '74 IH when the time comes.

Essentially, I will go from 4+ turns lock to lock, to 2.5 to 3 turns. Once the suspension is tightened up (ball joints, etc where needed), the improvement will be huge. The price beats a $1200 or more R&P setup for someone on a budget.

http://www.powersteering.com/

Chip's work is the bomb!

[Super_Dave]

Progress has been made on the Speedhut Gauge Install.

The Speedhut gauges are a tad smaller OD than the poor NVU gauges. Had I not modified the dash bezel for the NVU gauges, I might have been able to retain the OEM inner silver ring. I might try it on another bezel in the future.

Given the size difference in the OD of the gauges, I modified the dash bezel gauge openings by grinding away the inner lip I left for holding the inner trim ring I was going to use. I was not happy with how the ring edges fit inside the openings, as well. So, I decided to mount them from behind.

After the inner lip as ground away, we hand sanded the inner profile through three grits. Before final finishing of the dash bezel, we will sand one more time.

I filled the back of the Dash Bezel, surrounding the four system gauges, with 5 Minute Epoxy. After setting up for several hours, we sanded the epoxy, and the gauge housings, level with the dash bezel outer perimeter.

The we started laser cutting acrylic holders for the system gauges; making minor adjustments along the way. The goal was to provide enough flexibility to install gauge pairs and allow 360° holder movement to center the gauges in their respective holes.

We also had to make a half circle relief cut to clear the bezel mounting boss. The decision was made to do the relief cut on both the top and bottom gauge holder, making for a more universal fit and eliminate accidentally putting one holder in the wrong location. Once you start epoxying in the holders, you can just go back and redo it.

It took about an hour to test fit and re-cut until we had a fit that was acceptable. In the photos, we have the holders held in place temporarily with double stick tape. The edges are not perfectly lined up but will be in final assembly.

Once mocked up, you can see the gauges fit well and look great. The top of the gauge bezels are flush with the top of the dash bezel, which is the look we were after. We did get some minor sanding scratches on the dash bezel, which look worse that then are, and refinishing the dash bezel will take care of the marks.

We are ready for the final gauge holder processing. We will cut them from .125" Acrylic, and paint the backs with gloss black. The black will show through the clear front, making it look like black acrylic. Once the paint is dry on the back, we will cover the back of the gauge holders with vinyl to protect the paint from scratching off.

Then we will install the gauges and epoxy each holder to the back of the dash bezel. This is where filling the back of the dash comes into play. We needed something for the holders to lay against and the gauge housings were too thin to accommodate any holding technique, let alone provide any adjustment, so filling the voids with epoxy gave a much larger surface for the holders to lay against. We are toying around with laser cutting holes for small screws in the holders and screwing the holders to the epoxy filled back. It would give more options in the case we ever wanted to replace the holders due to damage, or color changes... etc.

Excuse the blurry photos... not sure what happened there. We did try using expandable foam around the two center gauge holes, but in the end, once the outer hard surface was removed, the foam was way too soft to be of any use. So, you can see the dams we are installing, to hold the epoxy around the ribs that are lower that the gauge housings. Once the epoxy hardens, we will repeat the same process from the system gauges and create and install an acrylic gauge holder for the Speedometer and Tachometer. From there, we will refinish the dash bezel and call it good to go.

[Super_Dave]

All the epoxy work is done on the back of the dash bezel. We laser cut the speedometer and tachometer gauge holder as one unit from .125" acrylic.

Over the past few days, we tried, unsuccessfully, to put a satin black finish coat on the dash. Where we had issues, was the convoluted, beveled curve of the gauge holes, which wrap back on top of them selves in two place. Getting good coverage on the hole perimeters, always left too much material on the outer face of the bezel, making the texture all but disappear.

After three failed attempts, and stripping the bezel three times, I decided to dip the bezel with either Black Carbon Fiber Hydrographics. The bezel will be delivered in the morning and ready to install by July 6th.

In preparation for the dipping, we installed the gauges into the acrylic holders, center the clusters into their respective holes and tacked them down with hot glue all around the edges of the holders. The Carbon Fiber graphics will wrap around the entire front surface, including the faces of the acrylic holders that will be exposed around the gauges. Should have a seamless look from end to end and top to bottom.

Once the dipping is done, we may add a layer of fiberglass cloth or some type of additional reinforcement.

[chrapladm]

Sounds like an awesome idea. Look forward to seeing the finish.

[midnight rambler]

Lots of work there, looking good.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by midnight rambler

Lots of work there, looking good.

Thanks.

I just finished removing the raised text on the face of the dash bezel, since it would only show as a bump on the hydrographics. If he can get ready to dip soon enough after I arrive, I will shot some photos.

[daddyjeep]

Very nice detail work here. I really like the gauge design that you went with.

Are you painting a base coat for the hydrographic or can your guy apply it directly to what you have? I only ask because it does not look like you have sanded the acrylic and I am worried you could have adhesion issues.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

Very nice detail work here. I really like the gauge design that you went with.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

Are you painting a base coat for the hydrographic or can your guy apply it directly to what you have? I only ask because it does not look like you have sanded the acrylic and I am worried you could have adhesion issues.

I dropped off the bezel about an hour ago. Yes, we decided to go with a black base coat primer. Heath seems to know what he's doing, so I feel confident in getting the end results I am looking for.

I was torn about going with a Red base coat and Black Carbon Fiber, but since we have not made a decision on the final truck color (either black with red graphics or red with black graphics) getting the red shade to work would be a challenge, unless I had the final red color decided on... which I do not.

The only remaining decision that I am not 100% firm on, is the clear coat. I initially said to go with a satin/matte clear, rather than gloss. I definitely didn't want a flat clear. However, I am still thinking on going gloss... the gauge bezels are gloss black. What I don't want to do is have the clear coat make the bezel look fake... wanting a more realistic finish. I suppose I could go with the satin/matte and if it doesn't look good, have Heath spray some gloss.

[Super_Dave]

Well, it's been a month and a half. In that time, there has been a death in the family, serious injuries, serious illnesses, a failed transmission int he '04 Regal replacement vehicle while the truck was off the road... and a host of other issues most people experience over 5-10 years.

The Black on Black Carbon Fiber was not coming out like I wanted. After three attempts, the decision was made to go with Red. I can still go either Black or Red on the truck, so it wasn't a total game changer. It turned out amazing; better than I thought it might. The Bezel has so many compound surfaces, dipping it is not for the faint of heart.

The guys work is really nice and the price is killer... let's just say I didn't pay over $100 for the entire job. I really needed this to be as nice as it is... It was a great lift to the spirits and encouragement to keep going forward.

I have to re-anchor the two center holders for the Speedo and Tach, once I find a better method/product. The gauges are in and everything is ready for the final wiring harness install... hopefully getting started next week... but the way things have been going, who really knows. At least I can sit back and admire the Dash Bezel.

[funkatation]

that looks sweet!

[daddyjeep]

Sorry to hear about all the troubles, but that dash looks real nice.

[midnight rambler]

I like it. When life gets in the way I go to the garage. Hope all the bad things are out of the way.

[Super_Dave]

Thanks guys.

It's looking like I might be finally pulling wires this week. That will be huge. Hoping to get the rear gas tank converted at the same time, since the saddle tank is full of junk and messing up the carb.

[midnight rambler]

I like where it's going.

[Super_Dave]

Well, a lot has been accomplished in the last month, after sitting in the shops lot waiting for a bay to free up to get to the wiring harness.

I have a lot of update info to post, and hope to have the truck back by Wednesday, when I can take some photos and do a proper update. The update will have some bad news and some good news, but everything seems to eventually work out in the long run.

Suffice to say, I hope to be left with only body/paint/upholstery.

[midnight rambler]

Looking foward to seeing the pictures

[Super_Dave]

Well... where to start.

After languishing in the shops gated yard for nearly 4 months waiting for an open bay to do the AAW wiring harness, I finally insisted on tracking down the wire(s) that almost burned the truck down at the transmission shop. It was traced to a stereo wire that was wired hot 100% of the time... even with the ignition off. Dumb ass stereo shop down the road... guess anyone can call themselves a stereo shop with a pare of dykes and black tape.

So, I drove the truck sans a stereo for a couple of weeks and got the transmission dialed in for shift points and kick down. The 700r4 runs like a dream. Then I noticed a large puddle of trans mission fluid on the driveway. The fluid level didn't even register on the dip stick!

Made a phone call and was told to come to the shop in three days and they would look it over. After a bunch of pissing back and forth and the trans shop claiming "someone arced the trans cooler line across the starter and burned a hole in the line" even before they looked for the leak... (hummm, how did they know that happened?), I got them to repair the line and took it back home.

A week later, I was informed that a long term bay was open and to bring the truck down to the shop. I arrived with the truck full of parts that had been accumulated of the past year plus.
... new dash pad, tail light assemblies, gauge cluster and custom dash bezel, rear bumper with license plate holder, front bumper, AAW harness, passenger inner fender, core support, replacement hood, cab mounts, radiator core support mounts, headlights, trim rings, side lights, etc....

The shop owner was going hunting and gave me run of the shop for a week...

[Super_Dave]

Day one started with a scheduled visit to the steam cleaning shop to get the engine bay steamed before tearing things apart. I didn't want a greasy mess all over everything.

I wandered back to the steam cleaning area, and what to my wondering eyes did I see, but Jose' doing the pressure washer dance! Not what I ordered! I stopped Jose' and asked why they weren't steam cleaning. Long story short, they booked me for steam cleaning... even thought they no longer steam clean!

Well, as luck would have it, Jose' had used some caustic sh.....t on the suspension... that the pressure washer splashed onto my billet serpentine system, aluminum valve covers and chrome air cleaner and ceramic coated Heddman Hedders... and etched the hell out of everything!

I got Jose' to clean up the air filter and most of the valve covers... the Heddmans were another story. I told Jose' to stop cleaning and leave my truck alone. I figure I will have another job to do polishing everything when it comes apart for the body and paint.

The second half of day one saw the removal and replacement of the cab mounts, removal of all the front inner sheetmetal, core support, front bumper, dash bezel and dash components...

[Super_Dave]

Day two was supposed to be an install day. However...

I unpacked the core support that LMC had delivered. One quick glance told me I was screwed again. The core support was supposed to be year specific for the 73-74... but the integrated braces for the grill supports were straight as an arrow from the bottom of the core support to the top... not slanted at the top half to allow mounting of the grill! Also missing, were the holes for the grill supports adjacent to the headlight buckets... and several other needed holes.

I went online and it seems LMC, Summit, etc all use the same image for the "73-74" core supports but the support is never going to work if you want to mount your grill.

So... I laid the old core support, with the cancer in the lower left from 40+ years of battery leaking, next to the LMC piece of imported crap, and after much head scratching, deduced that the only way to keep the project on track and maximize the use of the free shop, was to to use the LMC Crap Core Support as $150 patch panel.

I called my welding buddy and 'splained my predicament. He said he would look it over if I could get over to his shop post haste. We laid out the core supports, and after looking over a number of alternatives, determined that the profiles of the bends at the base of the LMC Crap Core was close enough, that we could cut a 4" x 16" corner off the bottom left and splice it where the cancer would be cut away on the OEM core. However....

Erick insisted that both ares on both cores be sandblasted and completely rust free... Hell yes, why not?! So, back to the "free shop" with both core supports in tow. The shop truck was loaded up with core supports, inner fenders, hood latches, core support valance, new battery tray, front bumper (back side was showing rust)... heater core box, etc... and made ready for for a sandblasting trip.

[Super_Dave]

Day three saw me making an hour long trip to the sandblaster. Got there at lunch time. Walked in and chatted with Manuel, who said "$100/hour."

I hauled the parts across the yard to an open ended building that use to be a dairy barn... now filled with huge sand dunes! I hesitantly unloaded the parts while Jose' (different Jose' than the "metal etcher") put on his hood, cranked up the diesel generator and snaked this huge hose across the dunes... I am thinking, "there goes my sheetmetal...").

I sit in the shop truck as everything disappears in huge cloud of fine, sand powder and dust. 45 minutes later, everything is blasted. I creep over and inspect and I'll be damned, it's perfect!

I go back to the office and prepare to hand over a $100 bill, when Manuel says it will be $75 for 45 minutes! Imagine that... someone who doesn't round up by 15 minutes and charges just for what you use!

Wile waiting for the invoice, I noticed they had a sign for "body work and Paint." Seems Manuel also repairs and paints all the semi trucks and farm equipment in the area. I ask him how long he's been doing body and paint and he says "over 20 years." I ask if he has any photos of his work and he pulls out his phone and shows me this sweet Square Body he just finished a frame off job on.

He replaced the rockers and other rot, full body and silver gray paint, stretched the front frame 4" to make room for a big Duramax Diesel, did the engine install, detailed the frame, raised the truck 6"... so, I guess he knows his stuff. I told Manuel I will come back with my truck after it's on the road again, and we can talk turkey on the body and paint.

We loaded up all the parts, and headed back to my buddies welding shop, some two hours away. I off loaded both core supports and agreed to be there the next AM to help with the patch job.

Then it was off to the Powder Coater with the remaining sand blasted refuges and a 60% gloss satin black powder coat. I let them know that a large core support would be there by mid day the next day, and we headed back to the "free shop" and called it a day.

Later that night, I got a call from my Erick that the core support was patched and ready to pick up in the AM.

[Super_Dave]

Day four I retrieved the patched core support. Erick did an amazing job! Then off to the powder coater to add it to the pallet of parts.

I got back to the "free shop" and eagerly tore into installing the dash pad and Red Carbon Fiber dash bezel and gauge cluster... however....

... try as I may, I could not get the dash bezel to fit!!! I took the OEM dash bezel I had removed, and tried it... and it slipped right in place. So... back to the fancy Red Carbon Fiber bezel... NO JOY! It's been a rough week so far and I am way behind schedule, and sore and tired. I take a break and come back to the bezel and immediately see the issue(s). The Wiper Lever is hitting the back of the bezel! Upon closer examination, I see that the Wiper opening on the Red Carbon Fiber dash is about a half inch lower than the lever in the dash... and not only that, the opening is also not the same width... and if that wasn't enough, the Headlight Switch opening was flush and the size of a Kennedy Half Dollar while the OEM was a raised dome with a small hole.

I am screwed royally this time... All the work on the '74 Ebay Dash Panel, and it wasn't even a '74. I own that error. While the truck was locked up in the compound for almost four months, I got a jump on the bezel and assumed the seller was truthful about the year of the truck the bezel came out of... so I never bothered to double check before doing all the customizing. My only recourse, was to alter the cherry OEM I had removed... "Ouch!"

I had some work that was piling up, so I had to call it quits on the truck. I grabbed my OEM Dash Bezel and headed back to my own shop, with my tail between my legs, my truck stripped from end to end, and parts all over the floor of the "free shop." Before leaving, I organized the parts on the floor, and prepared for Tony's arrival from his hunting trip, to reclaim his shop.

[Super_Dave]

Over the weekend, I did the best I could to modify the OEM bezel to accept the Speedhut gauges. It wasn't my first choice and I definitely did not have the time to do the full meal deal custom job on the bezel. In the end, I was able to flatten the back of the gauge housings to accept the retaining rings for the gauges. I also trimmed the sloped housing just enough for the gauges to slid in original openings and rested against the reaise silver trim ring.

The smaller gauges were easy, as they were round. The Speedo and Tack were another story, as the openings are ovoid and not round... so once you get enough opening for the round gauges to slid in, there is a little slop in the holes... round gauges in a slightly oval opening. I remedied that in the custom bezel, by cutting the entire housing out and replacing it with a laser cut acrylic ovoid ring with around hole for the gauges. It wasn't going to happen this go round.

Dash bezel 1, SuperDave 0.