Adjusting aftermarker wipers?

[vintovka]

Installed the aftermarket 12volt shown in pic. After fooling with the motor adjustment the best i can do is get the wipers to travel to the straight up positions and then park about 3" up from windshield bottom. I would like to get them to wipe at least another 20 degrees over and park like an inch off the bottom.

Question one is will they go over the extra 20 degrees or is straight up all she wrote?

Question two is how does the little screw and lock nut adjusted to lower the park position. Its the silver thing on the end of the motor.

Seached and watched all the videos and there no much out there. One of you must know.

[MiraclePieCo]

I installed a similar electric wiper in my '50 pickup. The way I adjusted it was by moving the motor on it's mounts. Due to leverage, a small amount of movement at the motor equals big changes at the arms. My adjustments were pretty random, so I can't give you a formula. I just changed it until it was satisfactory. Ha ha, I recall one point where the passenger wiper went way over the windshield post while the driver's wiper moved only about 6 inches!

[vintovka]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

Ha ha, I recall one point where the passenger wiper went way over the windshield post while the driver's wiper moved only about 6 inches!

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Thanks. Been there done that. Back is shot from laying under dash so will try again later. Anyone else have to remove bench seat to get anywhere near dash? Still curious how the park adjustment works.

[joedoh]

when I did my 49, the passenger arm was slightly too long and didnt let the wiper go all the way down or all the way up. this was my fix

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=637

make sure your linkage isnt binding or going over center on the transmissions (the spindle that the wiper attaches to). the instructions tell you to bend the linakges, but in my opinion that wastes the torque of the motor on bends, keeping it straight is the goal for me.

[NeoJuice]

I have the original bench seat in my truck and I needed to remove it to get better access up under the dash. I hear ya on the shot back, the left side of my neck muscle also got very tense and soar.

To say the very least my wiper motor install consisted of ripping the motor out two or three times.

1. After getting the motor I got up under the dash and removed the original vacuum motor.

2. Installed new wiper motor and mounted switch. Tested operation before putting on the brand new wiper arms and blades.

3. Put on the new wiper arms and blades. Went to test the motor and the wiper blades would not move. The set screws in the output shaft I guess you would call it for adjustment were loose. So I tried with the limited space to get up in there with a small allen key to tighten them up but it was a no go. So out the motor came again. Got the set screws tightened up and then re-installed the motor.

4. After getting the motor back installed and the arms back on the motor there was something that I failed or notice. When I installed the arms on the motor I did not pay attention to what arm went no what peg on the motor. So when I turned the motor on........instead of my wipers going up! they went down and bent my new wiper arms and blades into the cowl. I was so pissed!!!!

5. After getting back under the dash again I swapped the arms on the motor around and proceeded to test it again after carefully bending my new arms and blades back into shape this time they operated as normal.

6. After doing some testing I was having some issues with the passenger side under dash transmission arm banging up against the cab wall or peaking out its circular travel and flexing the rod and making a hell of a noise. So the solution to this was to enlarge the hole that was there from the factory. What I mean is there is the main transmission arm hole that connects to the motor then there is another smaller hole about 1/2" behind that hole. I just drilled that out to the correct size and used that hole instead. Now my transmission arm was not peaking out travel on the passenger side. So I decided to do this to the drivers side as well because I was having a simular issue. So I got the drill up to do the drivers side, drilled out the hole and got it on the motor. When I went to test it it got about 1/2 a revolution and the motor locked right up. I guess I didnt drill the drivers side hole straight enough and when it spun it locked up the motor. So after turning off the switch I tried to move the motor manually with my hand but it wouldnt budge. I removed the clips and tried to get the drivers side arm off but I couldnt. So out the motor came again lol.

7. After the drivers side arm issue I ended up using the second hole on the passenger side. Then on the drivers side I used the original hole and just put a slight bend in the arm to fix the issue I was having. I believe I also added some washers to tighten up the transmission arms to motor because they only include the thin white washers. I added I think two washers on each arm then added the locking spring. Then finally mounted the switch AGAIN!! lol.

Well now that I've gone off on a tangent about my install lets get back to your question LOL. On my motor when you turn off the switch at any point during travel the wipers go down to the park position. So i didn't know there was any adjustment there. My wipers go up to 90 degrees +/- as I thought they would.

I purchased my motor from kmstools up here in Canada and the box says counterpart automotive. When I talked with the parts guy I believe he might have said the motor was a re-branded Newport engineering motor. So I'm not sure if that will help you out of not. I've included a couple pictures. Dont forget to tighten your set screws

[vintovka]

Neojoice I read your post and feel your pain . Still feeling it. These aftermarket wipers seem to be a pure PITA. Got mine to an acceptable level and still will tackle that park adjustment when i recover. While laying upside down in pain fooling with this dam thing it dawned on me that i might have avoided the whole issue. Had to add a auxiliary vacuum pump as cam makes low brake vacuum. Was thinking i could have retained the old vacuum wipers and hooked them up to it via a reservoir. Duh!!

I also STRONGLY advise that you resolve wiper issues FIRST before loading the under dash with other stuff like heaters, gauges etc. ALSO get your vent 100% too and any other under dash issues. These wipers are darn near inacessable as it is.

[NeoJuice]

Vintovka,

I hope that this motor works for a long time lol i dont want to rip it out again.

At this time I don't have any clearance issues with my vent arm, gauges, wiring or anything else so I'm good.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by joedoh

when I did my 49, the passenger arm was slightly too long and didnt let the wiper go all the way down or all the way up. this was my fix

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=637

make sure your linkage isnt binding or going over center on the transmissions (the spindle that the wiper attaches to). the instructions tell you to bend the linakges, but in my opinion that wastes the torque of the motor on bends, keeping it straight is the goal for me.

That's a good post. Thanks for sharing.

[vintovka]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Vintovka,

I hope that this motor works for a long time lol i dont want to rip it out again.

At this time I don't have any clearance issues with my vent arm, gauges, wiring or anything else so I'm good.

Lucky.

[MiraclePieCo]

Reading this thread is enough to make me plug off the cowl wiper holes and buy a lifetime supply of Rain-X.

[vintovka]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

Reading this thread is enough to make me plug off the cowl wiper holes and buy a lifetime supply of Rain-X.

Heard about it about a month ago and used some on all my car/truck windows. It saved my butt when the wipers took a dump during a downpour on the winding ocean cliff road to Port Orford. About 400' straight down to rocks/beach. Stuff is amazing and actually works. Question is how long will it last?

[1952ssr]

Anyone with one of these motors wired it up to the steering column controls and eliminated the knob. I want to do this with my 53 but i need a schematic for the wires in order to hook up to the factory ones. TIA

[vintovka]

This may help. Has a wiring diagram to connect aftermarket wipers to GM stalk in a studebaker but should be similar. I haven't had the chance to try it. I did get the multi port connector for the special stalk spade. Stalk wiring is too small for old fingers to deal with. I would leave the dash knob connected and just tap into the wires. If you give it a try please post your results.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...67#post8340167

[1952ssr]

Thanks, boy that's alot of relays. I'll mull this over.

[vintovka]

I agree. AMazon has relays for under 2 bucks each and come wires. They snap together for easier mounting. When done I'll probably have no less than 20 relays for all the electrics. New cars are loaded with miniature relays and other current control devices, we're just not aware of them. I remember just having one was something special.

Still trying to figure out how stalk wiring works on mine (87 GM Van) with cruise. Only pushing the CC button on the end of the stalk closes a circuit.

[mikebte]

Good write up, I myself have considered drilling out the arm and moving it up to the next size hole. I may give this a go now that you have taken the guess work out.

[jweb]

I had the Newport Engineering set up for several years and I could never get it to work right. The wipers didn't travel far and the self park never worked. Also the C clips that hold the linkage to the motor would pop off.

Since I had my truck apart for paint last year I replaced it with the RainGear wiper setup, it isn't cheap but wiper travel is better and the self park works. Their system replaces all of the stock parts. I ordered mine from Matt's Claassic Bowties, a vendor on here and they had the best price.

Now my only issue is the wiper blades, they just smear the water around.

https://raingearwipers.com/product/1...et-gmc-trucks/

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by mikebte

Good write up, I myself have considered drilling out the arm and moving it up to the next size hole. I may give this a go now that you have taken the guess work out.

I did this because the passenger side travelling arm was peaking and flexing the arm. The 1/2" or so did the trick on the passenger side. Also the hole does not need to be drilled out that big either and also helps to prevent slop in the arm as it moves. Remember to drill the hole out straight.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jweb

I had the Newport Engineering set up for several years and I could never get it to work right. The wipers didn't travel far and the self park never worked. Also the C clips that hold the linkage to the motor would pop off.

Since I had my truck apart for paint last year I replaced it with the RainGear wiper setup, it isn't cheap but wiper travel is better and the self park works. Their system replaces all of the stock parts. I ordered mine from Matt's Claassic Bowties, a vendor on here and they had the best price.

Now my only issue is the wiper blades, they just smear the water around.

https://raingearwipers.com/product/1...et-gmc-trucks/

My wiper motor had the same clip as the original OEM vacuum motor with the spring between the clips (in picture above). I seen that the newport has individual clips for each arm which could come off. I could definitely see that happening if the clips were not tight enough or there was slack in the transmission arm holes.

Like i mentioned in my post above I added a couple washers to tighten up the transmission arm to the motor because without them they were kind of flopping around.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

My wiper motor had the same clip as the original OEM vacuum motor with the spring between the clips (in picture above). I seen that the newport has individual clips for each arm which could come off. I could definitely see that happening if the clips were not tight enough or there was slack in the transmission arm holes.

Like i mentioned in my post above I added a couple washers to tighten up the transmission arm to the motor because without them they were kind of flopping around.

I added nylon washers to my Newport setup for the same reason. I thought if they weren't flopping around maybe they wouldn't pop off so easily. They still came off.

[vintovka]

I added metal washerson top of the nylon ones to make up the slop. Currently Using an original spring type retainer off the old vacuum motor and seems to stay on and not flop around. Again, with my new auxiliary vacuum pump (for brakes) i wonder if i would have used an electric unit at all. The originals were designed to work with auxiliary pumps (on top of the fuel pumps). Since few originals remain I am under the impression the mechanical pumps did not last.