Installing New LWB Bed Wood.

[custom10nut]

Looking for advice to avoid any Pitfalls.
I’m about to dismantle my Original bed wood to install my new stuff.
I have all the parts necessary to complete the task (wood, bolt set, and mounting pad kit)
I’m asking about mounting points.
Does the framing of the bed sit on mount points on the Truck Frame?
Can I remove all the old wood and metal strips with the bed sides in place?
I need to lift the bed off to repaint the bad of my cab and front of the bed, so I’m figuring that if I remove the wood, it will be a lot lighter and easier to handle.
(I know I need to unplug the wiring harness before I lift the bedsides off.)
Then install the new wood once I put the bedsides back in place.
Am I way out in Left field with my plan?
Is there anything I’m missing?
Thanks in advance

[Already Gone]

Following

[custom10nut]

I’m hoping everyone is just busy.

[CC69Rat]

I live in the same general area you do, and I know about what the original trucks look like around this area. I would bet, the small bolts that hold your original bed wood in are rusted to the point it is going to be nearly impossible to take it apart with the bed on. I could be wrong, but just my opinion. It's going to be tough to get all the bed strip bolts out to be able to get the original wood out. (Unless it's rotted and just gone (?) If the bedwood is still semi intact I think I would pull the whole bed all at once. I have broken down an original 70 long bed wood floor and it wasn't easy. Most of the strip bolts I had to cut off to get them out.

I would pull the bed and stand it on end (front header panel down) take all the bedwood apart then go from there.

But there are Cross sills that run perpendicular to your bed wood that hold the bed to the frame rails. Probably the same deal.. they may be hard to get out if the bed has never been off. I have found overtightening them to the point they snap off is the fastest and easiest way to get them out.

If you have a chance, stop by AutoZone and grab you a can of "Deep Creep". It is made by Seafoam. It's in a white spray can and will be over by the PB Blaster and stuff. This product is 10x better than PB Blaster. It's about $12 a can but worth every dime. Hit all those bolts and let them soak for a day or two, then hit them again. An Impact should get most of them out but I'd just break the stubborn ones.

Hope this helps.
Later.

[custom10nut]

CC69,
Thank you for all the info.
I didn’t figure any of the bolts will come loose and know I’m going to have to cut them all off.
The original wood is there, but in pretty bad shape, and most of it is pretty soft.
I figure between my Saws-all, Oscillating Saw, and a Cut-off wheel it SHOULD come out pretty quick.

[fun in dirt]

Things to remember:
*Don't under estimate how heavy these LWB beds are. A single bedside panel alone is not easy to tote around.
* The bedside sit on top of the wood & header panel under wood; so your have 3/4" empty gap there if ALL wood removed.

[67C10Step]

Not sure if this will help much but I put my bed together and laid the wood and hold down strips in it at least twice before I attempted the actual install. Even after all that, when I got the bed ready to set on the frame I cut a bunch of small blocks the same thickness as the bed wood and set it all up as seen below. Then I started the wood install as you can see in the second photo.

[YellowK5]

I just finished the bed wood on my 71 C20 long bed. The bed can stay on the truck. you can remove all the wood and strips and it will stay in place. You just need to put a block of wood on each side in front (same thickness ad bed wood) so the bed front panel doesnt have to sit on the frame rails. The only place that the bed frame sits directly on the frame of the truck is at the rear.