The Worst! (Won't Start)

[geezer#99]

Check your distributor isn't loose.
Then check your timing.
A slightly loose (hard to move but will move with some effort) distributor will rotate cw with the rotor motion and retard the timing.

[Foxtrot]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Check your distributor isn't loose.
Then check your timing.
A slightly loose (hard to move but will move with some effort) distributor will rotate cw with the rotor motion and retard the timing.

I checked the distributor, but couldn't get any movement out of it. Wasn't applying too much force though.

However...

Originally Posted by nonstop

Are you getting fuel to the carb? I know there is a new pump and filter, but there. Hold be some sort of restriction in the line. If it starts when primed, then it sounds like fuel might not be making it up there.

What kind of engine and carb are you working on?

No fuel to the carb! This is actually kind of a relief. Removed the fuel line at the carb and no fuel was coming out of the line even after all the priming. To be certain, I laid on the ignition for ten solid seconds twice--no fuel squirts. Seriously, I feel really relieved right now even without having the truck repaired because this is a REALLY strong indication that the problem is still fuel-flow and that's a heck of a lot easier to fix (for me) than anything else except electrical issues.

Tomorrow I'll start working backward from there, but this basically limits it to just a few things:
- The new pump I purchased is faulty
- Fuel selector has a problem
- There is otherwise a blockage in the fuel lines
- Or I put the push rod in backwards? According to the (crappy) Hayne's manual (which I use as a quick reference in lieu of checking the full service manual I have in .pdf), when removing the push rod, I should be careful to install the push rod the right way. 1) the rod fell out when I removed the plug that keeps it in place so I have no idea which way it was in originally and 2) I'm pretty certain it's identical at both ends (no wheel or anything, just a straight, cylindrical rod).
- Or could I have used too much grease to keep the rod in place and this is fouling up the pump's ability to function?

The engine is a 454 MK4 (1979) with a Q-jet carb (Rochester M4M...E...?), all stock. Truck is a '79 C20 Camper Special--it has dual (independent) tanks.

[Foxtrot]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Check your distributor isn't loose.
Then check your timing.
A slightly loose (hard to move but will move with some effort) distributor will rotate cw with the rotor motion and retard the timing.

...And I really do need to take a look at my timing. You actually replied to my first post in this forum months ago about the matter.

Thank you for being actively helpful!

[Dead Parrot]

For fuel flow, check the rubber lines from the tank sender unit to the metal frame line(s) or selector valve(if dual tank). Also from selector valve to metal frame. If they are original(out of sight, out of mind), they are likely rotted to the point of letting air in and breaking the fuel pump's suction.

Your symptoms match my 75's when the valve to frame line hose started crumbling away a couple years ago.

When you prime the carb, you don't need very much gas. Think tablespoon instead of cups. If you are using cups of gas, could very well be creating a flooded condition.

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

For fuel flow, check the rubber lines from the tank sender unit to the metal frame line(s) or selector valve(if dual tank). Also from selector valve to metal frame. If they are original(out of sight, out of mind), they are likely rotted to the point of letting air in and breaking the fuel pump's suction.

Your symptoms match my 75's when the valve to frame line hose started crumbling away a couple years ago.

When you prime the carb, you don't need very much gas. Think tablespoon instead of cups. If you are using cups of gas, could very well be creating a flooded condition.

x2 and I don't think there is a right or wrong way the rod goes into the engine to drive the pump, never heard of that...and too much grease wouldn't cause the pump not to work,it drives off the cam

[Jstock85]

i had similar issues a few months back. I was getting fuel to the carb, filter was soaked with fuel when i swapped it thinking that was the problem. next i checked the lines for clogs thinking fuel shortage of some sort. air and spark were both good... Turned out to be the needle in the small brass bowl or whatever was sticking and not allowing fuel into the carb. taking the top of the carb off to get to it was a complete pain in the @$$!! i cleaned it up and put some 3-1 oil in it and dumped some marvel oil in the gas tank and its ran good ever since.
Hope this helps!

[Foxtrot]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

For fuel flow, check the rubber lines from the tank sender unit to the metal frame line(s) or selector valve(if dual tank). Also from selector valve to metal frame. If they are original(out of sight, out of mind), they are likely rotted to the point of letting air in and breaking the fuel pump's suction.

Your symptoms match my 75's when the valve to frame line hose started crumbling away a couple years ago.

When you prime the carb, you don't need very much gas. Think tablespoon instead of cups. If you are using cups of gas, could very well be creating a flooded condition.

I meant I used a total of cups, but very little at a time.