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Old 01-28-2017, 08:21 PM   #201
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Re: 63-87 rack and pinion

Has anyone installed one of these on a squarebody? I know the title shows 63-87 but I called No limit and they said its not for squarebody trucks. I just want to make sure. i was very interested in this unit.
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Old 02-04-2017, 10:57 AM   #202
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Re: 63-87 rack and pinion

what I've seen with the 73 up trucks was that it would not clear the with the 73 up press in bushing lower control arms, but would work with aftermarket or 72 down screw in bushings. I think there was a few pics showing the clearance issue and I also think I read that it would clear the press in bushing after doing the castor mod to the lower control arm shafts
1967 C10 lwb two tone, 305 & rat fink style floor shifted 700r4, 20" steelies
2004 2500HD utility bed aka Brutus
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Old 02-06-2017, 11:06 AM   #203
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Re: 63-87 rack and pinion

I put one of NL kits in an '82. It would not clear with the stock arms with the stock bushings. I switched to the Porterbuilt lower forward arms and had no issues with it after that. Worked out really well and made a huge difference in how the truck drove and handled.

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Old 02-06-2017, 09:03 PM   #204
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Re: 63-87 rack and pinion

Thanks guys for the response. I have some porterbuilt arms already so I will moving forward with this kit.
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Old 05-15-2017, 06:20 AM   #205
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Re: 63-87 rack and pinion

I am running a 5.3 from a 2001 suburban in my 66 C10. I am at a 3.5/5 drop as well as using the control arms from a 64 C10 (so I shouldn't have clearance issues, from what i have read). From my understanding on this thread, the power steering lines i would use are the ones from the 01 suburban and then I would be golden? also since a bunch of you have done this already, what steering shaft and joints did you use. Part numbers would be awesome to just click and buy. Thanks in advance!

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Old 05-15-2017, 08:49 AM   #206
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Re: 63-87 rack and pinion

everything you have wil work together. And, yes, the OE lines from the '01 Suburban will fit nicely.
When it comes to the steering connection, the question of "What column do you have?" comes in. The stock column can work, but it is pretty long, and forces the max steering angle in the top U-Joint. Here are three ways.

BEST: Call IDIDIT and order a "Short" column for your truck. Tilt, with-or-without a shifter on the column. This will fit in you OE mounts. Use a Borgeson or Flaming River U-Joint that is 3/4" x 36 spline on one side and 3/4" DD on the other. You will need about 16" of 3/4" DD shaft.

Better. Shorten the OE column so that the column outer tube passes through the floor by 1", and the inner steering shaft sticks out 1 1/2" from the tube. This is a LOT of work. see the option above.

Good. Use your OE column, but shorten the steering shaft. Cut the steering shaft appx 1" out from the tube. The OE shaft is 3/4" diameter. Very carefully use a grinder/sander/file to cut two flat spots on the shaft so that you can use a 3/4" DD type U-Joint. Use a 3/4"DD x 3/4"DD U-Joint and 16" of 3/4" DD shaft.

Works. (sort-of). Use the OE column as is. You will need a 3/4" x 36 spline to 3/4" DD u-Joint and 13" of 3/4" DD shaft. This will max out the U-Joint angle, and you may feel a tight spot every 1/2 turn. We don't really recommend this. U-Joint failure may occur with the U-Joint maxed out. - see options above.

Stay away from cheaper columns and U-joints. I know it's more $$ to spend, but this is not the place to cut corners. We have seen many failures with low quality columns and U-Joints.
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