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Old 12-09-2017, 04:40 AM   #101
Spf79
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Could you post a few more pictures of your front sway bar ? Do you know who manufactured it?
Also, how close is the rear sway bar from the diff cover? I'm asking because I would like to add one to my Blazer, but I only have around 5 inches between my diff cover and custom fuel tank. I'm also curious as to what that bracket is I circled in the picture. Thanks !!
Here are some more pics of the front sway bar.

Let me know if this is helpful or not.
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Old 12-09-2017, 10:38 AM   #102
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Thanks for the pictures !! I like the idea of the mounting links at the spring perches. Would be less binding with this design. Probably a necessity with your lift kit. I see what you mean about the front cross member. I'll have to fab up some custom brackets.
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Old 12-09-2017, 01:13 PM   #103
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Thanks for the pictures !! I like the idea of the mounting links at the spring perches. Would be less binding with this design. Probably a necessity with your lift kit. I see what you mean about the front cross member. I'll have to fab up some custom brackets.
No problem! I'm excited to see what you come up with for brackets.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:02 PM   #104
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Front shocks in place, and the stabalizer mocked up. Not putting it on until it goes in for alignment.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:09 PM   #105
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

This thing is gonna be sweet! Keep up the good work!
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:26 PM   #106
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

What is the part number on the steering stabilizer you are using?
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:30 PM   #107
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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This thing is gonna be sweet! Keep up the good work!
Thank you sir!
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:33 PM   #108
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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What is the part number on the steering stabilizer you are using?
Here you go sir!
Amazon had the best price when I purchased.
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Old 12-09-2017, 05:25 PM   #109
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Awesome start: subscribing.
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Old 12-09-2017, 05:27 PM   #110
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Awesome start: subscribing.
Thank you buddy, glad to have you!
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Old 12-09-2017, 05:43 PM   #111
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

When I picked up my project it was a bit of a basket case. Looks like I picked up two wiper motors... but they are a little different. Anyone know why?

I am starting to go through all of my mess and figuring out what will be thrown away and what will be refurbished.
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Old 12-09-2017, 05:48 PM   #112
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Another question. Anyone replace these rivets?
And does anyone have a good recommendation for a pop rivet gun?
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:01 PM   #113
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Fwiw I believe the wiper motor on the left is identical to the OEM example I recently replaced (not in hand at the moment to compare). The harness plug has two slots for attachment - that on right shows three blades. Do you have the unique little conical screws that secure the motor to the firewall?
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:36 PM   #114
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Fwiw I believe the wiper motor on the left is identical to the OEM example I recently replaced (not in hand at the moment to compare). The harness plug has two slots for attachment - that on right shows three blades. Do you have the unique little conical screws that secure the motor to the firewall?
Thank you. Oh yes - I made sure to put those screws off to the side when I disassembled.
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Old 12-10-2017, 03:44 PM   #115
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Front shocks in place, and the stabalizer mocked up. Not putting it on until it goes in for alignment.
There's not much that can be adjusted. I just do my own because the caster and camber is built into the front axle. Only the toe needs to be adjusted and this is easily done with a tape measure. I'm running around 3/16" toe with 33" tires.
FWIW, I did make tapered shims as I've mentioned on a few posts to give me a bit more caster. Stock is around 3 degrees, but I increased this to around 6 1/2 degrees. This made the truck much more stable, and the steering centers itself much better after doing a turn.
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Old 12-10-2017, 04:42 PM   #116
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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There's not much that can be adjusted. I just do my own because the caster and camber is built into the front axle. Only the toe needs to be adjusted and this is easily done with a tape measure. I'm running around 3/16" toe with 33" tires.
FWIW, I did make tapered shims as I've mentioned on a few posts to give me a bit more caster. Stock is around 3 degrees, but I increased this to around 6 1/2 degrees. This made the truck much more stable, and the steering centers itself much better after doing a turn.
Is that toe in or toe out? I did the shims in a CJ5, still can't get that comfortable to drive over 45/50 mph. I think I should have done a 2" rather than a 4" on the jeep. I ran a 4" lift in a 74 blazer with 33's and it drove well. Did you drive your and then adjust shims? Or shim it straight out the gate?

Pic of the old white knuckle CJ below.
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:06 PM   #117
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Is that toe in or toe out? I did the shims in a CJ5, still can't get that comfortable to drive over 45/50 mph. I think I should have done a 2" rather than a 4" on the jeep. I ran a 4" lift in a 74 blazer with 33's and it drove well. Did you drive your and then adjust shims? Or shim it straight out the gate?

Pic of the old white knuckle CJ below.
There's no shims on a solid front axle like our Blazers, and the Jeep is the same. The 3/16" toe in is adjusted by rotating the steering link that connects your tie-rod ends. I drive my Blazer at the speed of traffic and there's no problem cruising at 75 MPH.
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:21 PM   #118
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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There's no shims on a solid front axle like our Blazers, and the Jeep is the same. The 3/16" toe in is adjusted by rotating the steering link that connects your tie-rod ends. I drive my Blazer at the speed of traffic and there's no problem cruising at 75 MPH.
I'm following you on the toe, I just didn't understand if I should go in or out . The CJ I had given up on and took to a 4wd shop in my area that shall remain unamed. They shimmed the axle so that it rotated the front of the Dana up and the rear yoke down. Similar to the shims on the rear axle, these are bolted into the spring pack. Also they put a track bar in the front. It goes down the road a lot better than it did, but squirrelly above 45 or so. I thought about a rear sway bar, but never got around to it since it is mainly used as a cruiser around town. I'm glad to hear you are cruising at 75 no problem. The Jeep issues are why I am making sure to get the sway bars installed and pay a little extra attention to the suspension.
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:26 PM   #119
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Thank you. Oh yes - I made sure to put those screws off to the side when I disassembled.
With spares too. Nice.
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:57 PM   #120
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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I'm following you on the toe, I just didn't understand if I should go in or out . The CJ I had given up on and took to a 4wd shop in my area that shall remain unamed. They shimmed the axle so that it rotated the front of the Dana up and the rear yoke down. Similar to the shims on the rear axle, these are bolted into the spring pack. Also they put a track bar in the front. It goes down the road a lot better than it did, but squirrelly above 45 or so. I thought about a rear sway bar, but never got around to it since it is mainly used as a cruiser around town. I'm glad to hear you are cruising at 75 no problem. The Jeep issues are why I am making sure to get the sway bars installed and pay a little extra attention to the suspension.
It's really difficult to explain how everything should line up, but I'll give it a try.

In a perfect world, the angle of the pinion u-joints (front or back) should be at the same angle as your transfer case u-joints. This guarantees that your u-joint angles are the same which is critical for vibration and longevity. I always make sure this rule applies to the rear axle because this is what powers the truck down the road 99% of the time.
The front axle is a bit more difficult, because if you set the pinion angle to the output angle of the transfer case (ideal) it may not give you the proper caster. IMO, I would rather sacrifice a bit of vibration and u joint life for a much better handling and driving truck. How often do we use 4WD anyways, and it's usually low speed? It would be great if we could adjust the caster/camber relative to the pinion angle, but unfortunately this is set at the factory and not adjustable unless you're willing to cut and relocate the front knuckles.
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:31 AM   #121
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Another question. Anyone replace these rivets?
And does anyone have a good recommendation for a pop rivet gun?
Why replace? Just curious - tight examples not hard to find. I had a set replated for use on my current build and they turned out great.
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:21 AM   #122
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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With spares too. Nice.
Yup, kind of a basket case purchase. Doubles of random items.
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:31 AM   #123
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hemi43 View Post
It's really difficult to explain how everything should line up, but I'll give it a try.

In a perfect world, the angle of the pinion u-joints (front or back) should be at the same angle as your transfer case u-joints. This guarantees that your u-joint angles are the same which is critical for vibration and longevity. I always make sure this rule applies to the rear axle because this is what powers the truck down the road 99% of the time.
The front axle is a bit more difficult, because if you set the pinion angle to the output angle of the transfer case (ideal) it may not give you the proper caster. IMO, I would rather sacrifice a bit of vibration and u joint life for a much better handling and driving truck. How often do we use 4WD anyways, and it's usually low speed? It would be great if we could adjust the caster/camber relative to the pinion angle, but unfortunately this is set at the factory and not adjustable unless you're willing to cut and relocate the front knuckles.
Yes sir, I'm with you. I have the rear end shimmed so that it is pointing at what I hope is the correct angle. Wont know until the drive train is in. We will see on the front. Like you noted above, I will hardly ever have it in 4wd so it should not matter as much as the rearend. Regardless, this rig better be smooth down the road or I'm gonna lose my mind. My Jeep experience just spooked me a little.
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:11 AM   #124
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

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Why replace? Just curious - tight examples not hard to find. I had a set replated for use on my current build and they turned out great.
I was planning on having mine plated as well. Can I have them plated without being taken apart? Your thoughts?

I need a pop rivet gun for some heater control & box restoration. The rivets on my heater control assembly are broken, so I figured that I would just buy the resto kit for the controls and do it this winter. I already have the interior box torn down, sending to the powder coater soon.
I'm also planning to pick up an exterior box at the next Portland swap meet. The previous owner at some point cut the original in half with a sawzall. Lol... (sad face)

Plus I need to replace the kick panel vent rubber. Yay!
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:14 AM   #125
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Re: 1972 Build thread.

The tail gate hinges can be replated as assembled no sweat. I had mine clear zinc plated and these will be (are) painted to match the body like GM did. I had a NOS set powder coated orange and I used these on my k20.

My pop rivet gun is a cheapie from Home Depot.
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