Stainless trim question

[superdav]

My front stainless trim is in really good shape other than a few small rock dents
I made me a little dolly out of a 2 inch block of steel and punch out of some square key stock (dolly and punch, I guess thats what they're called) I started with the biggest dent and it worked great, smooth as a baby's butt.
It worked too well, the fixed spot is now shiny and smooth while the rest of the trim has a satin look because of the millions of micro specks from rocks.
I tried some of the blocks of polishing compound and buffed the hell out of it but it doesn't make much difference. Is hours of buffing my only option or does anyone have any tips to make this a little easier?

[MARTINSR]

If you posted some photos I could be of help. I don't know your mouldings at all. I can tell you that a da on orbital or on "grinder" mode with 3000 and 5000 grit paper is like a friggin magic wand on stainless. I just told someone this not an hour ago at work and he was blown away at how well it worked you could have thought I gave him the fountain of youth. It works so good you don't even need to polish it afterword!

But just like sanding paint, you may need to come up from something coarser to the 3000 if you have something that the 3000 won't remove.

Brian

[Foot Stomper]

I've been working on my stainless over the last few weeks and have learned a bunch. I've been able to get a mirror like finish after repairing dents and dings.
Some things I've learned to NOT do:
-do not let a metal object touch the stainless
-do not let a metal object impact the stainless
-do not let a metal object be within arms reach while working on stainless

There are a few exceptions, 1) a very small 5 oz body hammer is handy and 2) a metal rat tail and metal flat file are sometimes needed to file flat the high spots.

One way to start a piece is to learn how to get it polished, then attack the repairs. This way you can better understand the steps needed.

Take a rough piece of stainless and sand it with 220 grit, then 400, then 600, then 800, then 1000, then 1500, then 2000 grit wet sandpaper. After you are satisfied that the grit you are using has sanded out the previous grit sand scratches, cross sand the piece in several places and then sand those scratches out with the same grit. This way, you can be sure the scratches are out before moving to the next finer grit. By the time you get to 2000, it will be shiny.

Know that stainless EATS sandpaper so keep changing the sanding surface of it. Don't be a cheap ass with the paper, you will know immediately if you are by the way it sounds.

Stainless takes twice as long to sand each grit as you think it will take.

Once you've got to 2000, then run it through the buffing wheel... that's a whole other topic.

I've done all the sanding by hand on this (and many more) pieces.

[superdav]

I'll post a pic my next day off but it sounds like sanding is the best bet and then maybe the buffing wheel
I actually have a small mirror I made out of stainless years ago but I used what our machinists called an MX wheel that was like the hands of Jesus but I've searched for one and can't find anything, it must have a different name

[MARTINSR]

So Stomper, what you are saying is I shouldn't use a metal object to repair my stainless?




Good stuff there, that moulding looks brand new.

Brian

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

So Stomper, what you are saying is I shouldn't use a metal object to repair my stainless?




Good stuff there, that moulding looks brand new.

Brian

I should have put a small disclaimer in there Brian...
The last resort is a metal anything as I prefer to use wood or hard plastic as it tends not to put more dents and creases in the stainless...

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Foot Stomper

I should have put a small disclaimer in there Brian...
The last resort is a metal anything as I prefer to use wood or hard plastic as it tends not to put more dents and creases in the stainless...

The guy who taught me "metal finishing" 38 years ago had me using this tool.



I still have the exact one I used back then, same tool.

The trick he taught me was to have a pointed tool like this so you can zero in on the exact spot you want. Push out and leave the tip right where it is against the metal, view it from the other side while holding the tip or the awl right there, if you need to move it one way or the other a fraction of an inch you can do so because you never moved it, you slide it to the side and push out again, then check where it was, then move it accordingly.

It works for me, but it is JUST ONE WAY to do it of course. You aren't doing that and your work looks PERFECT. So it's just another way to do it.

Brian

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

The guy who taught me "metal finishing" 38 years ago had me using this tool.

I still have the exact one I used back then, same tool.

The trick he taught me was to have a pointed tool like this so you can zero in on the exact spot you want. Push out and leave the tip right where it is against the metal, view it from the other side while holding the tip or the awl right there, if you need to move it one way or the other a fraction of an inch you can do so because you never moved it, you slide it to the side and push out again, then check where it was, then move it accordingly.

It works for me, but it is JUST ONE WAY to do it of course. You aren't doing that and your work looks PERFECT. So it's just another way to do it.

Brian

There you go again Brian, opening my eyes to yet another new way of doing something! Thanks!