Major Loss of low end power after Pertronix install

[69-72]

I swapped out my points for a pertonix module on my 69 with a 350 and now I have a major loss of low end power, to the point of hoping I can get enough speed to cross a street with out getting hit.

I did have a major backfire while setting the timing, some gas collected overnight and the next day when I stared it I actually blew out my muffler, it has since been replaced.

It feels as though there is a fuel starvation or some restriction in the exhaust, it takes a bit of time to get up to speed but I eventually can. As well after it gets hot it starts to idle rough.

Any ideas?

[geezer#99]

What's your timing set at and where do you live?

[nonstop]

I have tried a few pertronix in a few different vehicles. In each, I ended up going back to original parts, or upgrading to factory electronic ignition. There are a lot of people who have had luck with pertronix products, but I'm not one of them. I was not happy with either the quality or how they ran.

[69-72]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

What's your timing set at and where do you live?

Canada and 8 degrees

[69-72]

Originally Posted by nonstop

I have tried a few pertronix in a few different vehicles. In each, I ended up going back to original parts, or upgrading to factory electronic ignition. There are a lot of people who have had luck with pertronix products, but I'm not one of them. I was not happy with either the quality or how they ran.

Yah I'm not thrilled with them either although the truck does start significantly better since I converted


I used one of their drop in stock look distributors on my Blazer a couple weeks ago. I had a miss show on my timing light and my tach was jumping. It took 4 calls to them and several hours trying to figure out was wrong. They had no idea. The solution in the end I figured out was I had to run a separate power wire to each to the coil and the distributor despite the fact that they both tested adequately for power.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by 69-72

Canada and 8 degrees

Canada, eh!!
As do I. Near sea level where I run at least 14 initial.
At what elevation are you?

[69-72]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Canada, eh!!
As do I. Near sea level where I run at least 14 initial.
At what elevation are you?

I'm smack dab in the middle of the country at 812 ft

[69-72]

I got it running good with the timing at the 12 o'clock position on the balancer. Problem is my tab is at 2 o'clock so I don't know what the timing is. Did I put the distributor back in the wrong position? I just check with my finger and found TDC lined up with the timing mark correctly.

[geezer#99]

You need to find true tdc on #1 using a piston stop.
Then time it correctly.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

[Tom]

Yeah sounds like the timing is very advanced. Starts way easy then no power....detonation/pre-ignition? I'd go over timing again and get that light onto the timing tab.

[orbot]

i got a pertronix coil on my engine and it sucks.

[69-72]

I just went over it again. Timing at 8 degrees and it's un drive able. 20ish degrees which is way off the mark and it's perfect.

If I put the distributor back in off one tooth would that cause this? All I did to this engine was pull the distributor to put the pertronix in. It ran fine before all of this.

[Captainfab]

Installing the distributor one tooth off from where it was will not change the timing requirement of your engine. My guess is that either the Pertronix unit is not installed correctly or it is defective. I had a bad experience with Pertronix years ago and will never purchase any of their products again.

[geezer#99]

So lets figure this out!
At first you were at 8 degrees, then you weren't sure and now you're at 8 again, sorta.
You'll never know what it is or why it's like it is now until you find true tdc like in the link I gave you.
And you can be off 3 or 10 teeth and as long as the rotor is pointed at #1 plug wire on the cap it'll still run like it does now.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

So lets figure this out!
At first you were at 8 degrees, then you weren't sure and now you're at 8 again, sorta.
You'll never know what it is or why it's like it is now until you find true tdc like in the link I gave you.
And you can be off 3 or 10 teeth and as long as the rotor is pointed at #1 plug wire on the cap it'll still run like it does now.

A big agree.....it dont matter where you drop that dist in, as long as you start #1 wire, where the rotor is pointed (#1 TDC ,comp stroke), with enough move ment on the dist , to adjust. I would set the initial 12-14 up....put 8-10 on the vac can, & go manifold vac to the can. your idle timing, with the can hooked should be 20-22 degrees@ idle speed. You can adjust from there....but that should be a ball park. Longhorn

[chevy_mike]

It is also very possible that the outer ring on the harmonic balancer has spun and now the timing marks do not show true TDC. I have seen this on two trucks and I just swapped out the one on my panel. I could never get the timing marks to line up using plug #1 but if I moved it to plug #3 they would. That's when I knew it had spun, as the truck ran perfect.

You need to determine true TDC first. Work the problem from there.

[nonstop]

Just double checking, but you bypassed the resistor wire when you hooked it up, right? Doubt it would cause your timing issues, but just one more thing to check. Did you ever have trouble with timing it before the install?

[69-72]

I contacted Pertonix yesterday and just heard back. This is their response.

"This means you have weak spark. By running the extra timing you are giving the spark event more time to happen. It's a band aid but should not be left this way"

They gave me some trouble shooting things to check and report back. I'm thinking the return to points will be in my future.

[geezer#99]

It's only a bandaid if you live at sea level.
Did you tell them where you live?
If you did they'd maybe know you need to advance the timing the higher in elevation you go. Air gets thinner, runs a bit richer and needs to start the flame earlier.
Why points?
Put an hei in it.
But you'll still need to figure out why your balancer/timing tab is wacky.

[Ironangel]

Verify that timing mark first!

[69-72]

I have verified TDC a few days ago. It sure would be nice to have a small cap HEI system that was readily available.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by 69-72

I have verified TDC a few days ago. .

What did you use for a piston stop?

Here's a small cap style hei.
http://performancedistributors.com/p...nition-system/

[Dead Parrot]

You mentioned the backfire and that the problem feels like similar to exhaust restriction. Maybe part of the muffler guts blew into the exhaust pipe and stuck, creating a restriction. Or if you still have one, the heat riser valve is now stuck shut from the backfire.

Everyone is suggesting ignition since that was what you changed, but do a tank to carb check of your fuel system. Something might have chosen NOW to fail. And you mentioned the feel of fuel starvation. Did you get a new tank of gas to go test your new ignition? If so, might have been bad gas.

What kind of carb? IIRC, some Holleys are sensitive to large backfires.

[69-72]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

What did you use for a piston stop?

Here's a small cap style hei.
http://performancedistributors.com/p...nition-system/

Cool. I'm going for the stock look do a big hei isn't going to work. I used the wire method to find tdc

[geezer#99]

Wire method is usually 10 to 20 degrees off!
As is the pencil or screwdriver method.

Piston stop is the only way.
Takes more time but is bang on accurate.