76 C-10 2wd short bed LS swap questions

[b16crx]

Hey Guys! I have been searching on the form/ internet and I have more questions than when i started...lol
I have searched a lot but since photo bucket did their thing many pictures are missing which makes some parts harder to understand. Plus it seems like there are a bunch of different ways to accomplish this.

So here is the deal, i recently totaled my 01 Corvette daily driver (no I wasn't going fast, just a real bad day) So In 2011 I bought this 76 C-10 for $200. In the time I owned it i swapped the 350 trans for a 700r4 and kept the original drive shaft. I plan on making this my new Daily, so i bought a 06 5.3 from a 1500 Chevy Pickup with a 4165e. I got all accessories, wiring, ECU, and drive by wire pedal.

So the goal is to do this swap as fast as possible since it is a daily driver. I'm trying to get all the parts i need before I start ripping it apart.

Here is where all the questions come in.

1. Motor mounts- If i understand correctly I can use the adapter plates from Holley (or other companies) that set the engine/ trans in the stock location. this should allow me to use the stock drive shaft, but does not allow for the AC to be run in the lower location.
If i use Dirty Dingo sliders, the engine can be moved forward allowing for lower AC location, but not use the stock drive shaft.
Is all that correct?

2. If I don't want to cut the cross member or customize mounts (I don't have a welder or welding skills) then I need to relocate the AC up top to the passenger side. Holley makes an adapter bracket but I was told I need to by the bracket and a spacer together I was looking at $250 for that setup. Is there any other alternatives?

3. wiring- i know I can modify the harness myself, but I may decide to have it "reworked" for time savings. If I do this it looks like they clean it up quite a bit and add relays for electric fans and what not. looks like the $300 to $350 range is what I should expect for this. the problem is companies like Speartech are not offering reworking at the moment and some of the older posts I have read have dead links, any recommendations for someone reliable?

Also I was thinking about removing all wiring from the truck and replacing with American auto wire or similar kit. do any of these companies sell a harness all ready setup for the LS swap? or would I still have to tie the truck into the harness that came with the new engine?
I also plan on Dakota Digital gauges to make everything easy in this part.

4. Fuel- I have dual tanks now which I kind of wanted to keep, but it sounds like it is a safer/ cheaper to use a 87 tank /straps/ sending unit should bolt between the frame rails and run new fuel lines, use a 99 Corvette fuel filter and 91 corvette fuel pump. the question is where does the fuel filler neck go? does it just connect to one of the existing fuel fillers? or does it have to be relocated?

Here is what it looked like when i bought it.



And here it is with new wheels and tires.

[mongocanfly]

can't see the pics.....try this..http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...sting+pictures

[mongocanfly]

1.I used ebay adapter mounts that locate engine same as smallblock...still had to shorten my driveshaft...but I went from 4spd to 5spd

2.relocating ac up high is the best option..I've seen some huge frame cuts to get it down low..I still haven't mounted mine but its going up high

3.there are guys on ebay that do harnesses....I used psi harness on mine

4.not sure about the tank...Im running my stock tank with a external walbro 255 and vett filter/reg

[emfh76]

I am also looking for info on the fuel tank options as i am researching the same swap. After alot of reading i have noticed very few keep the duel tanks.

[PhilistineAu]

I'm not sure about the 76, but at least on the later square bodies you can drop in a 1987 fuel tank that has the internal baffle. Others have swapped in a blazer tank that will go between the rear rails where the spare wheel normally sits.

Your fuel setup is going to depend on your engine. For returnless, the external pump feeding the regulator, with a return line from the regulator to the tank should work. Then your feed line runs at 58 psi up to the fuel rail. I purchased an 87 fuel sender without a pump, and plan to connect an in tank pump (purchased from Quantum Fuel). Not sure yet about running from the sender to the regulator and then to the rail, but a lot of people just use braided line.

Russel -6AN fittings are what everyone seems to use to connect the lines to the sender, regulator etc.

[emfh76]

Is the 87 tank the same size as the stock tank in a duel tank set up?

[jrpontiac]

In my 82gmc sb 2wd I used the 82 factory side mount tank with an 87 sending unit and fuel pump. Fired it up for the first time tonight. Pump was an ac Delco ep381 I got on eBay new for $33. Really quiet. Mounted right up to the 87 sending unit

My regulator was on the fuel rail so a ran a return line back to the tank. All really easy once I figured it out.

[LeesTruk]

There are some subtle differences in the range of years. First off, your fuel fill has a twisty cap on the bed side, whereas later year trucks had a fuel door that opened to reveal the fuel fill neck. Also, the fuel tanks ('81? through '87) have a 1 3/4" vs. the earlier 1 1/4" opening for the fill hose. What I found when putting the later tank into my '80 C10, was that the rubber fill hose from the fill neck to the tank stepped down in size, meaning it left the fill tube at 1 3/4" and ended up at 1 1/4" at the tank. All you need do is get a Gates fuel hose( #24716) and cut to fit

[LeesTruk]

As far as fuel lines go, don't be afraid of using nylon tubing and fittings from Dorman Products. It is far less expensive than the braided lines/AN fittings. The most expensive item would be the tool for inserting the couplings into the nylon hose (not necessarily a needed item but well worth it!). We used this stuff at our shop for fuel line repairs, especially on rotted lines in trucks (CT believes in marinating vehicles every winter in salt brine). You'll have no problems, as long as your installation doesn't require sharp turns in the line. If you do, Dorman also makes a 90* coupling for making those sharp bends

[PhilistineAu]

Those connectors look great. Really nice work! What brand are those?

[LeesTruk]

All my fuel lines/connectors are from Dorman Products and can be easily purchased either on-line or from most "real" automotive parts stores. If you go to Dormanproducts.com, and use "Fuel line repair" as a guide word, you can see what they offer