Twin Stick Shifter question

[Bigdav160]

I installed JBC shifters on my NP205 and I am not entirely happy with them.

No pictures but I had to bend the he77 out them to fit the factory floor hole. They still don't clear properly.

My idea was to machine down two factory shifter handles to fit. Has anyone done it before? i want to avoid pitfalls if I can.

[obijuan]

Just bend the shifters you have like a stock shifter to fit the floor. Is that an option? I assume these aren't in a 73-87? That's probably why.

I'd try to avoid messing with oem shifters.

[snj8198]

I've never seen a set of twin sticks fit the factory hole well on neither the 67-72's nor square bodies. I'm not sure how much factory location consideration is put into their design. Both JBC and ORD are nice kits but they all needed trimming on the trans cover and the boot and base plate are shifted over the hole as center as possible while still grabbing enough metal for fasteners.

Did you install the shift rail kit as well?

Post up some pics.

[72again4x4]

BigDav,
Just wondering, did you get the direct mount or cable setup? I have the cable setup and love it. Can get better pics tomorrow of what mine looks like. Only thing is the cable is heavy duty and shifts hard. I plan on getting longer 48 inch cables to make it shift a little easier. Had to move the shifter location closer to driver side but that was a choice not mandatory. Hope any of this helps.
Roger

[Orange Crate]

I used two stock shift levers, but had to heat and bend both to fit them in the original location. Those levers are TOUGH to bend even when heated cherry red. I like the look of two stock levers together, I made one a little shorter than the other too, just so it is easier to grab, plus the original knobs pass by each other a little better. I'll get a few picks today and post them if you are interested.

[snj8198]

I'll get a few picks today and post them if you are interested.

Stop teasing and post pics!

72again4x4: I'm not recognizing which JBC shifter bracket you used. Is that the buggy style flush mounted? I take it you installed the modified shift rails? Do you have any pics of underneath the trans cover and clearance? Measuring from the center of the t-case output yoke, how close is the nearest shifter cable? I'm using an HAD driveline parking brake and wonder if it will interfere with the JBC shift cables.

[72again4x4]

Sorry... here's the first couple from underneath. You can see how tight the bend is. Doesn't affect shifting but still a little tight.

Second pic, the rectangular box is the base of the buggy style cable shifter. I cut the hole to move it towards the driver side and just use the same steel to fill the factory hole. I then modified the top of the box and welded it to the bottom of the high hump. Sorry no pics of the mods to the box or how it was welded.

[72again4x4]

1st pic is another view, close up of the shifter box and the 2nd pic is drivers view of the setup.
I hope any of this is helping guys. Have a great rest of your weekend.

[snj8198]

looks great, thanks a ton!

[72again4x4]

snj8198,
I have the drive shaft off and you can see where my parking brake cable is hanging through the yolk. Depends on how your brake setup is but I have about 5" of room above the shaft to the floor. The bend in the cables is flexible and rides about 3" above the shaft as well.

[72again4x4]

Very welcome.

[snj8198]

The bend in the cables is flexible and rides about 3" above the shaft as well.

Looks like even if a guy went with longer cables to lighten the shifting feel, the cables could be held up with a hanger as well to keep em out of harms way.

[Orange Crate]

Here are pics of my twin original sticks. I cut two original bolts and welded them together. I use the stock bolt location on the trans to TC adapter, still working on the linkage, but will most likely go with rod ends and turnbuckles. Sorry can't figure out how to turn the pics on my Macbook. You get the idea anyway....

[72again4x4]

Nice set up Orange Crate.
Roger

[notchbackgta]

Originally Posted by 72again4x4

Sorry... here's the first couple from underneath. You can see how tight the bend is. Doesn't affect shifting but still a little tight.

Second pic, the rectangular box is the base of the buggy style cable shifter. I cut the hole to move it towards the driver side and just use the same steel to fill the factory hole. I then modified the top of the box and welded it to the bottom of the high hump. Sorry no pics of the mods to the box or how it was welded.

I want the buggy shifter setup like that. I have been wondering how it will all work together especially knowing that I am planning on using an NV4500 with the 205 on the back. I want to put the sticks on the PS of the hump, but that will just make the problem worse with them being tight, would you agree?

[snj8198]

Originally Posted by notchbackgta

I want the buggy shifter setup like that. I have been wondering how it will all work together especially knowing that I am planning on using an NV4500 with the 205 on the back. I want to put the sticks on the PS of the hump, but that will just make the problem worse with them being tight, would you agree?

Well figure it out quick and take lots of pics so i can copy you

nice work on the sticks Orange Crate!

[Orange Crate]

I'm also installing an NV4500/205 combo but I'm in the parts gathering stage right now. I did weld up a twin stick shifter mount....I suppose you want pictures of that too! I used two old leaf spring bushings and a 1/8" plate from Tractor Supply (double thickness). Total cost $12.15.....satisfaction? Priceless......Would that be called a Tri-Stick after that?

[notchbackgta]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

I'm also installing an NV4500/205 combo but I'm in the parts gathering stage right now. I did weld up a twin stick shifter mount....I suppose you want pictures of that too! I used two old leaf spring bushings and a 1/8" plate from Tractor Supply (double thickness). Total cost $12.15.....satisfaction? Priceless......Would that be called a Tri-Stick after that?

I'd like to see pictures

[Orange Crate]

I'm highjacking Bigdav's thread, but we are still taking shifters right? I tried to use supplies readily available so the steel plate is double thickness. It was a little too narrow to make it between the two bolts/spacers so I layered the plates and tried to fill in the gap with the welding. I was using a little Hobart 120 so the welding sucks. I have since bought a new 200 amp MIG and plan to redo the welds. The nut I welded in is a crimp style lock nut. If I keep the 205 in the stock location by moving the engine forward these shifters should end up in the stock location (in theory).

[72again4x4]

Originally Posted by notchbackgta

I want the buggy shifter setup like that. I have been wondering how it will all work together especially knowing that I am planning on using an NV4500 with the 205 on the back. I want to put the sticks on the PS of the hump, but that will just make the problem worse with them being tight, would you agree?

NotchBackgta, they have different length cables 36"-120". That should allow you to mount where and how you want with no kinks in the cable. It's the diameter of the bend that affects the shifting. Their website does a really good job of explaining mounting options.

[Bigdav160]

My first issue with the JBC shifters is they mount straight up so they are well behind the OE hole in the floor. I bent mine to a 45 immediately above the rectangular bracket and then 45 again to bring them through the hole.

I still had to remove a little material from the back portion of the floor hole. Then, when the bench seat was moved forward it would sometimes bump the shifter into neutral.

Recently I cured the seat interference with buckets and a console. I'm terrible with a camera so don't hold the grainy pictures against me. It's functional now but the shifters are so much shorter after being bent. I'm terrible with a camera so don't hold the grainy pictures against me.

[notchbackgta]

Originally Posted by 72again4x4

NotchBackgta, they have different length cables 36"-120". That should allow you to mount where and how you want with no kinks in the cable. It's the diameter of the bend that affects the shifting. Their website does a really good job of explaining mounting options.

Part of my problem is order of operation with parts. I need/want the shifter because I need to clearance the TC bracket on the back of the trans for the shift rod and the JB bracket that mounts on the rod, but I don't need all that until I get my engine, which won't be for a while. It all looks like it will be right on top of each other. I suppose I can just wait and see where the TC is going to actually live and make a decision from there, since Bigdav160 says bending the levers works, I'd actually rather have that than cables. I could actually just re-engineer the levers to make it work for me too

I also like DIY approach.

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

I'm highjacking Bigdav's thread, but we are still taking shifters right? I tried to use supplies readily available so the steel plate is double thickness. It was a little too narrow to make it between the two bolts/spacers so I layered the plates and tried to fill in the gap with the welding. I was using a little Hobart 120 so the welding sucks. I have since bought a new 200 amp MIG and plan to redo the welds. The nut I welded in is a crimp style lock nut. If I keep the 205 in the stock location by moving the engine forward these shifters should end up in the stock location (in theory).

I think this is a great approach, cheap and you made it instead of buying it. One suggestion, if you put a small bracket on the TC side of the adapter and lengthened the long flat piece to that, you could probably get away with small tabs at the transmission side and shorter bolts.

[Orange Crate]

Notchback- Thanks for the suggestion. I did think about that approach but I want to be able to remove the TC without disassembling the shifter. I agree it might be better to have shorter bolts, but when I got this all put together it is very stout (the bend in the flat top plate and welded gusset in the corner add a lot of strength). I could improve it by installing grade 8 hardware but it really is stiff the way it sits. Yes, build it don't buy it is my motto. Cheers! And good luck with yours. Sometimes you have to mock things up and stare at them for a while, and it will come to you.


I think this is a great approach, cheap and you made it instead of buying it. One suggestion, if you put a small bracket on the TC side of the adapter and lengthened the long flat piece to that, you could probably get away with small tabs at the transmission side and shorter bolts.[/QUOTE]