Hub Retaining Nut

[dmw319]

I was driving the other day and my brakes got spongey. I was able to make it back to my house. Fluid level was fine. When I took off the passenger wheel and dust cover, this is what I saw. Is that the hub retaining washer? Any idea why it would come off like this?

I ordered a wheel bearing/seal kit from ECE but now wondering if I also need to buy some additional parts.

Help?

[OL SKOOL]

That looks like an old cotter pin . Might have been in the dust cap when taken apart.Put back together with a new one and forgot the old one laying in the dust cap.Would still take apart that bearing grease doesn't look good.

[OL SKOOL]

Or a bearing cage.

[irl104]

That sure does look like the bearing cage. Check your spindle.

[57taskforce]

That looks like a bearing cage to me.

[dmw319]

I think you guys are right, the bearing cage looks to just be shredded apart.

The new bearing kit comes in a week from today, so I will take it all apart then and post back here. Hopefully its just the bearings!

[chiefcfd]

Just wondering why you had to order the parts. I was able to buy new rotors, bearings and seals at the local NAPA.

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by chiefcfd

Just wondering why you had to order the parts. I was able to buy new rotors, bearings and seals at the local NAPA.

probably could have, just decided to get them from ECE where I got the bearings originally. I don't trust a lot of my local parts stores.

[Andy4639]

dmw319,
you bought the bearings from ECE to begin with, how long ago? The grease looks like it's dried out. Did you hand pack them are use a packing tool? I would be rechecking the other side as well just for piece of mind. How tight was the Castle nut?

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

dmw319,
you bought the bearings from ECE to begin with, how long ago? The grease looks like it's dried out. Did you hand pack them are use a packing tool? I would be rechecking the other side as well just for piece of mind. How tight was the Castle nut?

I bought the bearings from ECE a little over 3 years ago and hand packed them. I am going to replace both fronts just to be sure. I can't remember how tight I tightened the castle nut, whatever the spec said I'm sure. But due to the cotter pin, it hadn't moved since.

[dmw319]

Here is the pic of the damage the outer bearing caused. Assuming I need to buy a new spindle, and ECE (where i bought them originally) only sells them in pairs ($250).

I also need to buy 2 new races. Advice on where to buy these?

[Andy4639]

Yep looks like you need spindles as well. Even though only one is needed. I would be investing in a bearing packer. They are cheap tools at Harbor freight and work well.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...bearing+packer

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Yep looks like you need spindles as well. Even though only one is needed. I would be investing in a bearing packer. They are cheap tools at Harbor freight and work well.

Thanks, Ill check that out!

Any idea on where to buy new races? Can't find them listed on ECE's site. Honestly, I was kind of surprised they didn't come with the bearings I bought.

[Andy4639]

I have never bought bearings that didn't have them. They are usaully a set matched to each other.

[Shady Rascal]

Your outer bearing is an A3 and your inner bearing is an A5. Those numbers are universal from sea to shining sea. Any parts store can sell you a high quality Timken brand bearing which will include the race, for 5 to 7 dollars each. Screw ordering from ECE and paying shipping just to get sent bearings without races included. If you're gonna order the things, at least use Rockauto and save a lot of money.

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by Shady Rascal

Your outer bearing is an A3 and your inner bearing is an A5. Those numbers are universal from sea to shining sea. Any parts store can sell you a high quality Timken brand bearing which will include the race, for 5 to 7 dollars each. Screw ordering from ECE and paying shipping just to get sent bearings without races included. If you're gonna order the things, at least use Rockauto and save a lot of money.

thanks!

[ERASER5]

There is a notch at the back of each race to knock it out, you just have to find it among the greasy nastiness. The clean the rotor hub, then clean it again. Get all the grindy metal pieces out or you will be doing this again real soon.

Then install the new races (that came with the bearings).

Castle nut preload. After assembly, tighten the castle nut by hand. Spin the rotor, tighten, spin tighten until the rotor has resistance. Back off the nut until the cotter pin lines up with the hole. Remember, "tight" is too tight.

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

There is a notch at the back of each race to knock it out, you just have to find it among the greasy nastiness. The clean the rotor hub, then clean it again. Get all the grindy metal pieces out or you will be doing this again real soon.

Then install the new races (that came with the bearings).

Castle nut preload. After assembly, tighten the castle nut by hand. Spin the rotor, tighten, spin tighten until the rotor has resistance. Back off the nut until the cotter pin lines up with the hole. Remember, "tight" is too tight.

thanks!

[dmw319]

Update: got everything back in and assembled about a week ago. ECE sent me new races for free with the spindles I purchased for them this time around. Thanks for everyone's help!

[burnin oil]

This is late but I always had better experiences with hand packing the bearings. Every bearing packer I have been around always left dry spots somewhere. No experience with the one shown. Hand packing doesn't take long. Just shove the bearing all the way one direction and push grease in all the way around. Spin the bearing a few times and repeat the process. Finally ensure there is a coating on the face and inside. That sucker is ready for install. Takes all of a minute. For those who think its a dirty job and use the packer I have a question. How many times have you stuck that greased bearing into the hub without getting dirty? Granted you may stay a little cleaner but not that much. For people looking at this thread later on the tightening process listed above is correct but I do have a word of caution. Don't let it be loose enough that the tire can wobble, that is to loose. I prefer a tad tight, light drag, that keeps the wheel running true over loose and wobbly. Wobbly will destroy a bearing in about the same time as running to tight. Ultra loose was a drag racing trick along with running the breaks a few clicks under adjusted on drums to limit drag. Works good for ETs but not the best on the street.

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

This is late but I always had better experiences with hand packing the bearings. Every bearing packer I have been around always left dry spots somewhere. No experience with the one shown. Hand packing doesn't take long. Just shove the bearing all the way one direction and push grease in all the way around. Spin the bearing a few times and repeat the process. Finally ensure there is a coating on the face and inside. That sucker is ready for install. Takes all of a minute. For those who think its a dirty job and use the packer I have a question. How many times have you stuck that greased bearing into the hub without getting dirty? Granted you may stay a little cleaner but not that much. For people looking at this thread later on the tightening process listed above is correct but I do have a word of caution. Don't let it be loose enough that the tire can wobble, that is to loose. I prefer a tad tight, light drag, that keeps the wheel running true over loose and wobbly. Wobbly will destroy a bearing in about the same time as running to tight. Ultra loose was a drag racing trick along with running the breaks a few clicks under adjusted on drums to limit drag. Works good for ETs but not the best on the street.

good observations!

also, I packed mine by hand as well.