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Old 01-22-2019, 02:08 PM   #1
bigmoe
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Exhaust routing. Long panhard and tailpipes?

My v8 engine and trans are sitting in my bare frame now. Planning out the exhaust. I have a curved up double hump trans crossmember and I put 4” pass threw pipes in my trailing arm crossmember. Plan is to run my pipes along the inside of the frame through the trailing arm crossmember. What have others done that have gone this route? Looks like it will have to curl inward and the dual chamber mufflers will have to sit between the arms and the driveshaft? Turned on their sides? Also I put a POL long panhard bar on the square body rear I put in my 65 frame. Looks to me like over the axle tailpipes are not an option now? 3" drop spindles and Wrangler springs in back for 4-5" rear drop.

Last edited by bigmoe; 01-23-2019 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:48 PM   #2
The Rocknrod
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Re: Exhaust routing. Long panhard and tailpipes?

Year? Model? Pics?
Assuming you have coils in the rear you can go over the trailing arms up by the trailing arm cross-member then go over the rear end. You can route the exhaust in front of the panhard bar on the drivers side and behind the panhard bar on the passenger side. With a rear tank (again assuming your set up) this will work.

Last edited by The Rocknrod; 01-22-2019 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 01-23-2019, 07:42 PM   #3
bigmoe
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Re: Exhaust routing. Long panhard and tailpipes?

Here you go. 65 GMC swb Fleetside.
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:02 AM   #4
kdad
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Re: Exhaust routing. Long panhard and tailpipes?

A look at my version of how to make room for the exhaust to route through the crossmember and over the axle.



I am not in any way shape or form saying do what I did as many here will say " THATS NOT RIGHT" "YOUR GONNA GO STRAIGHT TO HELL FOR CUTTING THAT CROSSMEMBER" "THAT PANHARD BAR MOUNT IS GONNA FALL OUT AND KILL SOMEONE"

But just in case your an outlaw like me and don't care (or think that brace is not needed after its been reinforced) Then here is another idea to get that exhaust up as high as possible and not drag on the ground. BTW I trimmed the middle crossmember on the back side removing just the lip for additional clearance. As the exhaust goes over the axle and needs to be tucked up as close to the bed as possible to clear the C-Notch. That small removal of the lip will make the exhaust tubing clear much easier. Planning on putting a piece of 18 gauge sheet metal mounted on spacers to the bottom of the wood bed so we don't burn the wood.







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