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Old 04-17-2002, 03:50 PM   #1
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
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Post WARNING

I discovered something kinda alarming today...
I had already decided to replace the master cylinder, so i pulled it off and drained it, only to find 1/8 inch of sludge on the bottom.
If you are getting a truck that sat for a while, inspect it. H*ll, fo out and look at what you have now...could be dangerouse.

------------------
'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite.
If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com
Andy, in Columbus Ohio


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Old 04-17-2002, 10:02 PM   #2
racedvl
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Cool

Hey Andy, I'm sure that I don't need to tell you....... Check ALL!! your brake lines and hoses!!

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Old 04-17-2002, 11:54 PM   #3
nroden
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We ended up replacing all of our lines and everything. We were working on somthing else and then they wouldnt come ondone. So we had to cut them. They were in good shape.. just stuck in.
Also replaced all the other brake parts. Let me tell ya.. I got GOOD brakes now.

------------------
Nick Rodenberg
Wellington, MO
http://nickrod.port5.com
You can click on "My 72 Chevy Truck"
I have a 72 Cheyenne 10 with a V8 350 and a TH-350 auto-tranny.
Ochre/White/Ochre
Runs well... working on body.
Plan to get painted weekend before memorial day weekend.
Planned to be done March 7 when I turned 16. Didn't happen. Chose to do better job and be behind schedule instead of 1/2 doing it and it looking like junk.

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white/ochre/white/ochre, ochre/saddle interior
Retired and in the dry... still runs. I now drive Red '01 Ford Focus... better MPG!!!
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Old 04-17-2002, 11:57 PM   #4
CoryM
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Usually that sludge is rubber from your brake seals/hoses. Scary huh? When ever i do brakes I suck out the brake fluid and scrape the sludge off the bottom. Just don't suck too much out or you will have to bleed em.
CoryM

------------------
1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada
http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070


"Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high."
Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army

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1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada
http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070


"Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high."
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Old 04-18-2002, 02:23 AM   #5
Sinister
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i got this cool device at kragen...
it's basically just a little bottle with a magnet and a nipple connector at the top...
you run your tubing from the bleeder valve to the nipple and stick the bottle to the frame
above the level of the brake drum/caliper...
pump the brakes until there's fluid in the bottle...
i can bleed my brakes in 5 or 10 minutes and don't need my girlfriend to stomp on the pedal...


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beat it to fit,
paint it to match...
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Old 04-18-2002, 08:59 AM   #6
71GMC_3/4T
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... and when you bleed the brakes, put a 2x4 or something under the pedal. This keeps the pedal from traveling farther than it has for a long time. If it goes through the rust and crap in the bore it may cut the cup seal, causing it to leak. The leak usually happens inside the cab, which is not a good place.
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Old 04-18-2002, 10:47 AM   #7
RainDog
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I never had any luck with the brake bleeder kit I bought, the plastic tubing kept stretching out and not sealing around the bleeder valve. The easiest way to bleed brakes I've found is just to pump up the pedal three or four times, open the bleeder valve for a second, close it, repeat a dozen times and you're good to go. Don't need two people to do it either. You can also just gravity bleed them if you're really lazy
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Old 04-18-2002, 11:43 AM   #8
don t. - 72gmc
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Complete brake job on all 4 is my next task. Prior owner had replaced lines/pads/shoes. Did nothing to calipers/wh. cyl./master cyl.
Noticed yesterday my master seems to be leaking from under the cap. I aint touched the brake pedal in 5 days. Kinda figured something needs to be done when only the fr. pass. brake locks up.

I also figure, since im there, I'll check the rear end seal/bearings, might just replace 'em for piece of mind.

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It aint gonna be a trailer queen, its gotta work, just like me.
3/4 ton,350 w/HEI, 79 q-jet, th400.
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Old 04-18-2002, 02:20 PM   #9
Fast68Chevy
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71GMC has a good point there!@


also no point in pumping brakes, it wont accomplish anything, just as effective to bleed on every pedal stroke, i just use my finger to cover open bleeder screw to get started usually, or sometimes rmeove screw and cover hole with finger while pumping pedal, works fast and gets air out real quickly!

------------------
Randy- Lincoln, IL
r68c30@hotmail.com
-71 C-10 350/CH465/3.07
-84 Z28 Camaro 5.0L 700R4, 3.73
-84 Firebird SE 2.8L T-5
-82 Firebird 350 4bolt (TBL)/TH350
buy/sell/hoard/trade most any GM vehicle parts of any kind
-parting out: '81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
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Old 04-18-2002, 04:22 PM   #10
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
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I use engine vacume. Run a hose from engine to a pickle jar, seal it on the lid (a nipple of sort) then run another hose (a clear one) to the drum/caliper, and start the truck up.
I made this thing about 6 years ago, and it was awsome.
It busted when I was moving here, and I ain't done any brakes since then.

------------------
'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite.
If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com
Andy, in Columbus Ohio


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Old 04-18-2002, 08:18 PM   #11
racedvl
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Now that's a good idea!! I would like to see pictures of the engine vacuum device!!

------------------


http://hometown.aol.com/racedvl/racedvl69index.html

Woodstock,IL.northwest of Chicago

It's not what you buy, it's what you build!!

I did not climb to the top of the food chain, to become a vegetarian.

For some pics of my truck.


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Old 04-18-2002, 08:22 PM   #12
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
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like i said though...i broke it in the move and was too p!ssed to think about keeping the lid.

------------------
'69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man
I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite.
If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com
Andy, in Columbus Ohio




[This message has been edited by longhornmail (edited April 18, 2002).]
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Old 04-18-2002, 10:41 PM   #13
CoryM
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If you want to keep things clean take a plastic hose (see through) from those blleder kits and stick it over the bleeder. Run other end into a jar. Keeps things clean. Good for painted wheelwells. Also a lot of radiators have room on the draincocks to stick a hose on/in. Again, keeps things clean.
CoryM

------------------
1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada
http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070


"Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high."
Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army

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1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada
http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070


"Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high."
Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army
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