Convert to a newer front end on an AD?

[ryans69chevy]

Working on a '49 father-son project. Wondering about front ends - If we should keep the original front end or convert to a newer front end i.e. Mustang II front end. I see a lot of people converting to this front end. I wouldn't mind having a manual steering truck, so I think it would be pretty neat to keep it all the same, but just how readily are the parts if we need to replace them? Are they pretty easy to come by? Or is this one of the main reasons for changing it to a newer front end? Would it be a good idea to just keep it the same? Hopefully someone can chime in and maybe list some advantages and disadvantages of both? I'm not sure at this point if power brakes is a sure thing or not or if keeping this front end would even allow for this kind of set up? Even though were putting a 235 in it would be kinda nice to stop on a dime if need be.

Thanks!

[Root2812]

The original front ends are cool but they are stiff and ride rough. They also handle poorly so any sort of speed and you will be all over the road. Remember these trucks only did about 50mph top speed. The brakes also suck in comparison to anything newer and if you plan on actually driving it I would suggest a disk brake upgrade on the front. The mustang II is a common application and it is possible to put a manual or power stearing rack on it. If you are handy with a welder you can get the welders series mustang II fairly inexpecively.

I suggest you go to the spike tv website and watch an episode of the show "Trucks" where they introduce a project called "classix". They do a road test with the stock brakes and suspension. You can see exactly what you have. Then if you want you can watch the second episode of that project where they put on a mustang II.

[Root2812]

Oh and you asked about parts. With companies like LMC and Classic Parts you can practically build these trucks from scratch so finding parts is very easy.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Root2812

Oh and you asked about parts. With companies like LMC and Classic Parts you can practically build these trucks from scratch so finding parts is very easy.

[mr48chev]

I'd suggest ordering catalogs from LmC Brothers and some of the other suppliers even if you may never order a part although at some time we all have to order parts from the truck goodie vendors. The LMC catalog has nice blow up drawings of how the parts go in relation to each other that help with the brain going dead at assembly time once in a while plus their listings show what fits what year pretty easily. Brothers has great photos of the items they sell that are good to make sure you have what you need.

Suspension choice between stock I beam, dropped I beam or independent is determined by several things. How you want the truck to look be it traditional or hot lick latest tricky slicky, stock, near stock or something in between.

It also depends on how and how far you plan on driving the truck. If a really long road trip is a hundred miles or so one way the stock setup should be fine. In 1977 I towed a 16 ft Uhaul behind my 48 from Texas to Washington state with the stock I beam axle. I wouldn't attempt that again but in those days cross country trips with the stock suspension wasn't a big deal. The cross country trip might have been but the suspension used wasn't. The round trip down and back four years later with the Camaro subframe was a lot easier on me though. No trailer but being able to cruise at 70+ for hours on end with one hand lightly on the wheel instead of "driving" every mile made things a lot easier.
This time around though the truck is getting an aftermarket Mustang II style crossmember with tube A arms that I will upgrade the ball joints on to Moog ball joints. 11 inch disk brakes and power rack. The truck is going to set pretty low with a static drop and no air bags. It will also make an extended road trip to Texas in March of 2013 right after I retire to visit the inlaws and hit some rod runs and shows.

[ryans69chevy]

I'm lovin' the advice! I have the LMC catelogs, I guess that just gapped my mind. I'm decent with a welder. I really want a welder (miller 180) because I enjoy welding, but when the neighbor has a lincoln 140 that he is willing to let me borrow, it's kinda hard to go out and buy one lol.

I have some questions on the Mustang II front end...
Is it going to have the same ride height as the original front end?
Where is a good place to get one of these front ends?
Is it a lot of modifications to get it to fit?

I think we can both agree that we want to keep the same look (ride height included) and we want something that can cruise down the interstate at 70 maybe even close to 80 without like you guys said "driving every mile."

[Root2812]

You can set your ride height where ever you want. When you install the cross member and the upper arm you take ride height into account. Also the length of your springs, wether you use stock spindles or not, and the size of your tires will all effect ride height. Your stock wheels should be about 29 inches in diameter. Thats a pretty large size tires so if you run those that we help you keep that stance. You can get replacement bias ply tires in that size easy but for better driving you can get radials that are that are close to the same size for a bit more money.

As for your other questions. You can get the Mustang II kits from many places. Welders series sells the cheapest ones I have found, but you have to weld. Thats what I intend to buy. To install it you have to clean all the stock suspension off the frame and weld in the new cross member. Really check out those tv show epidodes I mentioned. Yeah they are only 16 minute episodes but it gives you a little insight into what you are about to do.

[72Mountaineer]

[QUOTE=Root2812;5010362]You can set your ride height where ever you want. When you install the cross member and the upper arm you take ride height into account.

How do you set your ride height by where you install the crossmember? Doesn't the crossmember install up against the frame no matter what height the frame is from the ground? I thought ride height was determined by spindles, tires, etc.

[Root2812]

Ok I wasnt clear. I was saying you take ride height into account when you trim the cross member to fit before welding it in. It's not much of anything at all. There are a ton on measurements that need made and that's one of them.
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[mknittle]

plagiarized from somebody on this site

http://www.truckandcarshop.com/4759.html

http://www.classicparts.com/default.asp

http://www.brotherstrucks.com/

http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/

http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/

http://bowtiebits.com/

http://rodworks.org/