need primer advice

[1968aj]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

Well since it is broken down spray the front half first then spray the bed. Then go back and do another coat starting and ending in the same places. Also start spraying from the bottom and work your way to the top, not the other way around. the natural position is to start at the top and work down and around make yourself do the opposite.
The reason to spray the truck then do it again the way i described is to help in the drying[flash] time. If you go to a fender spray it then spray it again and again to get the 3 coats[if 2 doesn't cover well]your stacking wet primer on top of wet primer trapping solvents[witch leads to failed paint from solvent pop],and it also leads to runs in the primer that is more work for you.
Spray the truck in an order like I said before ad stick to that direction that way it will help you in knowing where you are with the primer and paint as well. Jim

ok I get it. going to respray this week. THANKS again for answering my dumb questions. will post my progress

[hugger6933]

If you have read any of my other post you know I say there are no dumb questions. If you don't know how else to learn besides ask. Everyone started from zero so I feel that any question has merit. So posters don't shy away ask away and I'll see what I can do for you.

[1968aj]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

If you have read any of my other post you know I say there are no dumb questions. If you don't know how else to learn besides ask. Everyone started from zero so I feel that any question has merit. So posters don't shy away ask away and I'll see what I can do for you.

I have read all your posts on this thread and several others at least 6 times . I will read them again before I go get the primer. I have looked at local part stores for OMNI. cant seem to find it yet.

[CC69Rat]

Great thread - Jim is awesome and very helpful.

I just want to mention the recoat window between Epoxy and the high build primer stages. Try to get your high build primer sprayed within 7 days of your final Epoxy coat.

120 sand, knock down the original paint as much as possible

Epoxy primer, 2x good medium coats. This will form the seal Jim mentioned earlier and protect your bare metal. It creates sort of a barrier that if water penetration happens when it's in primer it can only soak up to that point and not all the way to the bare metal

The next stage is your high build primer and filler (if you chose to do so) or hammer / dolly and body work. I usually shoot a good light to medium coat, let it flash for about 5-10 min depending on the temperatures of course then two more good medium coats. I use Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy and their high build. Again, try not to let more than 7 days pass between these stages. Epoxy / High Build. If you do the Epoxy will dry super hard and the high build just can't bond to it as good. (Chemical bond )

At this stage it gets fun.. sand, sand, and more sanding..

If you break through back to bare metal - YES .. more Epoxy primer is needed.

Once you have it in high build primer, 180 sand and get it flat. Recoat if needed.. 220 sand to get it slick.

If you recoat ( I do) block it again with 400. If you're doing single stage paint I'd just go to 400 ..500 max. I block with 600 for metallic paints.

With single stage ..you can put several good coats on it.. let it cure really good then cut and buff. I like single stage. You can make it look like glass.

The biggest thing is just taking your time. Don't get in a big hurry.

Hope this helps

[drfloyd]

Man what a good thread. I'm getting ready to dip into this myself as I just got my frame stripped and trying to figure out suspension. As soon a s I do that I will start with my frame so if I screw up at least it's not a big deal. You guys have done a great job making something that's really complicated for most of us, simple. Well, sort of simple, simpler anyway. Jim, thanks for the unselfish advice and more so, all of the typing.

[1968aj]

I sprayed the truck with black epoxy. should I use black high fill or does it matter?

[russgoodman]

I like to use a different color so if you sand through the high build you can tell. I usually use black epoxy and gray high build.

[CC69Rat]

I do the same ^^ I have been using White Epoxy and grey high build but same concept. It just makes it easier to see when you need to stop sanding before blowing through the Epoxy.

I do White / Grey because most of the guide coat is black. If you have black epoxy it makes it a little more difficult to see where you've been (just in my limited experience )

Post up some pics brother man !

[1968aj]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

I do the same ^^ I have been using White Epoxy and grey high build but same concept. It just makes it easier to see when you need to stop sanding before blowing through the Epoxy.

I do White / Grey because most of the guide coat is black. If you have black epoxy it makes it a little more difficult to see where you've been (just in my limited experience )

Post up some pics brother man !

I will get some more pics once I spray the high build. going looking for some tomorrow. part stores I have been to don't have and don't know what OMNI is.

[CC69Rat]

What brand Epoxy are you using ?

Do you guys have ORileys Auto Parts there ?

[hugger6933]

Omni is PPG's cheaper little brother. I use MP282 [grey] high build that way you can tell when the coverage is good[on the first coat anyway] then when you sand the guide coat [what i use is black] it is just a contrast thing. I normally use black epoxy, but I did find some grey in the paint booth the other day. Dad had picked some grey up by mistake but I'm out of black so I'll use it.
Don't y'all think there is a market for a shop where you can bring your truck to and also learn to work on it at the same time yet have some body with tons of body time in to teach say sanding, grinding, welding, priming, painting and the like? I guess it I could be defined as a teaching shop, y'all know I like to help explain things I guess I should have been a teacher but hated school. Jim

[1968aj]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

Omni is PPG's cheaper little brother. I use MP282 [grey] high build that way you can tell when the coverage is good[on the first coat anyway] then when you sand the guide coat [what i use is black] it is just a contrast thing. I normally use black epoxy, but I did find some grey in the paint booth the other day. Dad had picked some grey up by mistake but I'm out of black so I'll use it.
Don't y'all think there is a market for a shop where you can bring your truck to and also learn to work on it at the same time yet have some body with tons of body time in to teach say sanding, grinding, welding, priming, painting and the like? I guess it I could be defined as a teaching shop, y'all know I like to help explain things I guess I should have been a teacher but hated school. Jim

our local junior college does this.its cheaper to pay for the class and use their equipment. they could sure use you here. my son signed up for the class but had n vehicle to work on. the teacher they had did not teach him anything. the class consisted of guys working on their own vehicles while the instructorworked on his own side jobs. I was going to take the course myself but iam learning more here than I would have in his class

[1968aj]

no progress to report. I have back problems and have been laid up for a week. I have been looking for a color for final paint. anybody have any experience with these flat or satin rat rod style of paint? would these type of paint be easier for a beginner? if so should you put a clear coat over them? any help is appreciated.

[hugger6933]

The flat is less likely to show flaws in the body work. BUT and that BUT is big if you make a mistake in the clear and HAVE to sand it out when you buff it is gonna change the sheen or gloss level. If you have your heart set on a semi or even flat colors you can buy different levels of gloss in the clear, or you could by a single stage flat or semi gloss type paint. I probably would go with a medium gloss in a single stage.
I recently bought a product [from PPG] called flex n flat, it is a variable sheen clear coat than you can change the gloss level by adding different levels of regular clear to it. I bought it to do some inner fenders and radiator support.

[CC69Rat]

I'd suggest a single stage paint in a lighter non metallic color.. White would be easiest. It's probably the least likely to show flaws in my opinion. You could do an off white or even light yellow.. etc. The darker you go the more likely you'd see any mistakes.

If you put enough paint on it, you can cut and buff it back to where it looks like glass. All it takes is time and a whole lot of patience.

If you do metallic and try to color sand it's easy to break through the clear and sand into the metallic base (not good)


I'd definitely do a single stage on your first all over job. Just my opinion.

[hugger6933]

I always advise the first timer to spray BC/CC. Because, the base spray just as the primer does[or pretty much]by the time you get the base done you have had several coats of practice. The clear coat can be had in a "quick clear" that dries so quick it saves you from dirt. The single stage takes longer however and will allow more dust to stick to it if that is gonna be a problem

[1968aj]

got too much time on my hands . maybe im overthinking this. is there such a thing as putting too many coats of paint?

[CC69Rat]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

I always advise the first timer to spray BC/CC. Because, the base spray just as the primer does[or pretty much]by the time you get the base done you have had several coats of practice. The clear coat can be had in a "quick clear" that dries so quick it saves you from dirt. The single stage takes longer however and will allow more dust to stick to it if that is gonna be a problem

Jim knows far more about this than I do.. just speaking from my limited experience and what I've learned over the past couple years. He owns a body shop.. so he's the guy you want to listen to.

I have a ton of respect for him for just sharing his knowledge. He thought me a lot of what I know too !..

Good luck on your truck. I'd like to see pictures once you shoot it !

[tlmoore2501]

I am using Clausen Z-chrome.Thought about epoxy but backed out.Look it up and check it out if your just getting started.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by tlmoore2501

I am using Clausen Z-chrome.Thought about epoxy but backed out.Look it up and check it out if your just getting started.

Loos like they are geared to body shops, as they are selling case quantities online. Do you know if resellers are handling this for single unit sales?

[hugger6933]

Yes you are over thinking it and yes you can put on too much paint. There are things like build thicknesses that come into play along with way too much paint making the subtrate brittle and more susceptible to paint chipping. Now at what point is too much I don't know I never put too much paint on a ride that I know.
Next question is why after it is more than good and covered [we are talking about 3 to 4 coats at the most]why would you want to keep going other than the fact your having too much fun painting. If that is indeed the case come join me I have tons of cars and trucks to paint. Not only that but I can cure the painting is fun idea as well.
As far as CCrat 69 goes thanks for the props from my interaction with him he is a great guy and I think I have seen some awesome pics of his sweet ride.
Of course I haven't helped many on here that I thought weren't great people

[hugger6933]

meaning to say I like everyone this is a great site and I'm glad to help out. Jim

[1968aj]

should I try to get complete coverage with each coat of paintor should each coat be just a light coverage? does this even make sense?

[hugger6933]

In your own words you are overthinking and the longer you take to get this done the more you gonna second guess yourself. Nice even coats and it will be fine, don't take too long to make a pass with the gun, find a rhythm and stick to it. And,
Never be afraid to bend something cause you can straighten it out.
Never be afraid to cut something cause you can just weld it back in.
Never be afraid of paint defects cause you can take them out.
Remember most of the time we do this as a hobby [well most do]and it should be fun, worry doesn't lend itself towards fun. Jim

[BigDan3131]

I use the first coat as a tack coat and no full coverage on the first coat is not needed and it can lead to issues if you force yourself to apply it that way. That's why the instructions on the can say 3-4 coats to cover.


I agree about no single stage for a beginner because you have to know where to start from and where your wet edge is and so forth.


For those who want a really fast out of dust clear it can be ordered by Oreilly's and its part number TRS 7761-MTR and its $103.99 a gallon. Its made by Transtar and its out of dust in 10 minutes and dry in 2 hours.

Here: https://www.tat-co.com/TranstarAutob...1.pdf?ext=.pdf