Cutting thick steel with a sawzall

[rpmerf]

Cutting control arm bolts on my Suburban. A couple cuts down and a handful more to go. Wondering what is the best technique to use here. I was using the standard cheap bimetal blade. Sucked at getting started, but once it was started it got through the rest pretty quickly. Seemed like it needed an edge to work off of, and didn't like the round edge of the sleeve.

I just bought an $11 carbide blade for thick steel, and I don't want to destroy this blade like I did the cheepos. I am thinking I should be acting like I am drilling. Go slow, don't generate heat. Should I be using cutting oil? Any other tips for cutting through bolts and sleeves?

I was able to use a 4" cutoff wheel to get one of the cuts started. That helped a lot. Most of the other cuts, I don't have enough room to get a cut off wheel in there without risking cutting the control arm or frame.

I tried googling this, but google was more interested in selling blades than providing information beyond reciprocating saws 101.

[Dead Parrot]

I am pretty good at messing up blades but the closer you can keep the foot(not sure of proper term) of the saw to the thing being cut, the better. I would get a few of the cheap blades in case there are some times you need to have the saw in an awkward position. Better to bend/break a cheap blade then the good one.

If you are not, wear gloves for the times the blade jams and pushes the saw instead. There often seems to be a sharp something just behind your hand when that happens.

It will often tell you if it likes the speed and pressure you are using. Vary both until you find a magic combo that gives the most cut metal with the least cussing.

[Greg58]

A little lube will help reduce friction and heat.

Greg

[mongocanfly]

slower speed and some lube helps...but now I always use quality blades...never had any luck with the cheepos...but starting with a worn blade and dropping a new blade in the same groove doesn't do much but rip the set off the new teeth ... one reason it may have started cutting slow would be because the bolts may be hardened ..once you got thru that layer the going got easier

[rpmerf]

Thank you all for your help. I'm looking forward to trying out this new blade once the weather clears up.

[truckster]

Changing the angle as you approach the center of the cut also helps. It gives the blade a shorter cut.

[burnin oil]

As said cutting oil. I have cut 3/4 plate with a Sawzall. Go slow and use oil. The blades will last until you bend or break it usually.

[joedoh]

for what its worth I did this same thing, stuck lower arm bolt, had to cut it. two regular blades didnt touch it. picked up a carbide blade and was done in 10 seconds. oil might help but wasnt bad without

[Indian113]

I don't even waste my money on blades for my sawzall! Always seem to have the best luck using Milwaukee Blades. In the long run your just being Penny Wise and Dollar Foolish buy the cheap ones first.

[joedoh]

i think he meant cheap as in the not-carbide, at least that is what I meant. I use milwaukee blades. the carbide blade is only good for really chewing through something thick and or tempered. otherwise its a bit unwieldy when doing precise work on inner fenders or throws hot chips on you with its aggressive cut.

[Indian113]

Good Point Joe! I apologize if I took it the wrong way. When I think of CHEAP Blades I often think Harbor Freight not Milwaukee.

[LS short box]

Also thicker the metal you are cutting you can use coarse tooth blades. Fine tooth blades are for thinner metal like sheet metal.

[projectking]

Didn’t read the responses but Milwaukee Diablo’s are bad ass

[rpmerf]

Bit of an update. Got a Diablo Steel Daemon blade. Cost about $12. Cuts way better. Like those $2 bimetal medium steel blades had toruble even make a dent, this blade has a decent cut going in 10 seconds. Going slow, only because I'm trying to keep the blade cool and not wear it down too fast. I'm on my third cut now, and I'm starting to loose teeth. Using oil and trying to go slow, but this isn't exactly the easiest area to cut in. Hoping I can finish the job with this blade.

[rpmerf]

Originally Posted by Indian113

I don't even waste my money on blades for my sawzall! Always seem to have the best luck using Milwaukee Blades. In the long run your just being Penny Wise and Dollar Foolish buy the cheap ones first.

I think my cheap blades are Milwaukee. Most of the stuff I cut, it doesn't matter too much. The blades I have work fine. These bolts are probaly the hardest thing I've had to cut through. Normally, I would be reaching for my cut off wheel, but that doesn't work in this space.

I have a battery Royobi reciprocating saw, and a real Milwaukee Sawzall. When I grab the Sawzall, it's serious.