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Old 07-07-2002, 06:33 PM   #1
8mag
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14 bolt disc brake conversion

i have a 14bolt ff rear end i put under my 72 and ordered a set of bracketts to convert my drums to rear discs. wondering if anyone else has done the same and any problems suggestions. thanks.
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1972 3/4 4x4,14bolt locker rear, dana44 lock right front, sm465, sb 400, blazer tank,dual batterys,3"lift,32-9.00-16 super swampers
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1972 1 ton dually 4x4,454 4 spd,,235-85-16, flat bed front and rear winches, rear gas tank and under bed gun safe.tilt wheel
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Old 07-08-2002, 12:05 AM   #2
Mudder
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Its not big deal!

I think shag (68SWB4X4) here on the board has some info on that swap. I dont have it anymore or I would be glad to send it to you.
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Old 07-10-2002, 12:20 AM   #3
68SWB4x4
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www.coloradok5.com has a write up in the tech articles or product reviews im pretty sure...... i cant remember the other site im pretty sure has a write up....... i have some info mudder67 emailed me which i will try toi find tonight and post
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Old 07-12-2002, 07:07 AM   #4
8mag
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i ordered brackets from a guy in south dakota and have the rest of the parts allready, looks fairly simple.
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1972 3/4 4x4,14bolt locker rear, dana44 lock right front, sm465, sb 400, blazer tank,dual batterys,3"lift,32-9.00-16 super swampers
daily driver
other trucks
1972 1 ton dually 4x4,454 4 spd,,235-85-16, flat bed front and rear winches, rear gas tank and under bed gun safe.tilt wheel
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Old 07-15-2002, 09:08 PM   #5
Vince M
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If you wouldn't mind ..can you post any pics or a parts list as your going along. I've got a 14 bolt also and have thought about the conversion.
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68 Chevy CST SWB w/LS1, carb & 700r4. Golden Anniversary clone with a few improvements.
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Old 07-18-2002, 11:24 PM   #6
Mudduck72
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Its is very easy to swap

I just did my 72 blazer sorry no pics. here is the skinny on what i used 73-87 chevy 3/4ton calipers and rotors and afco weld on brakets any circle track mag has got them about $14 and front brake lines frome a 73-87 the only thing is you will lose your emergency brake inless you use a line lock which is what i did.I cut my pads lose.took the drums apart pulled the hub away from the carrier and drove the lug bolts out i slipped the disk on but the lugs back in the hole and put it back on the axle.do the other side.now your ready to put the axle under the truck i left the pads lose and let them lay on the axle and jack it up to meet the spring so you can pitch the rear drive shaft for the best angle. find that and take them next i assembled the brake caliper to the braket. then i put the pads on and used some heavy zip ties to space the set up on top of the rotors this worked very niced as far as telling you where to put your brake as far as towards the back are towards the front i put my in the back but the new chevys have them in the front i dont know which is best but mine work great.the rest is very easy.weld it up and go.You my need a proposioning valve i didnt use one.I see no need for a backing plate also.
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Old 07-20-2002, 02:22 PM   #7
8mag
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i used 75 chevy 3/4ton 4x4 front calipers,rotors and brake lines.the brackets bolt to the rear end housing in the original holes and position the caliper with the brake bleeder straight up. i used an adjustable proportioning valve from wildwood in the rear brake line only and nothing in the front,straight to master cylinder. the truck will really stop now. the places i normally drive i find myself stopping 50 feet before the stop sign all the time. doesnt take much pedal to really start slowing down. total cost was about 400.00 everything new.
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1972 3/4 4x4,14bolt locker rear, dana44 lock right front, sm465, sb 400, blazer tank,dual batterys,3"lift,32-9.00-16 super swampers
daily driver
other trucks
1972 1 ton dually 4x4,454 4 spd,,235-85-16, flat bed front and rear winches, rear gas tank and under bed gun safe.tilt wheel
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