Shaved Handles using Bear Claws

[Gippetto]

I am planning to shave the door handles of my 47 GMC and have upgraded to bear claws to replace the worn out stock latches. I already bought the claws. The plan includes solenoid actuators.

Here's the thing: Been reading articles etc on the conversion and see that some people have reversed the assembly of the bear claws and mount the bolt
in the door and the bear claw latch in the cab jamb. They say there are clearance issues with the window track. I see benefits doing this for the emergency cable but other than than that lots of fabrication.
I have the door stripped down to the bone but I haven't seen the bear claws yet but have their dimensions which seem slight. I am away for the next month so cannot mock up the assembly. I am worrying about this not knowing which way I should go so I decided to look to the forum gurus for advice. Any thoughts.

[Speedbumpauto]

I did mine on a 55.2 and if I wasn't so hung up on having handles, I'd do the reverse option. The easy safety cable thing might seem small but, believe me, after thinking and rejecting a number of ideas to do it on the standard set-up, I'd change in a heartbeat.

[alaska gasser]

I mounted my bolt on the door frame and claw in the door. I will have a safety cable that is going to follow the path of the wires into the door. A link to my build thread is at the bottom. Just remember, I'm not using the stock window channels etc. and haven't figured clearance issues.

[mr48chev]

One of my buddies mounted his latches on the door post and put the bolts on the doors I don't think there is any more fabricating involved than putting them in the doors. I used the same latches he did an mounted mine in the doors. .

You could runs a safety cable or a rod down through the bottom of the cab behind the door post that stuck out just far enough to grab it with fingers or a pair of plyers or even a key that you slipped he hole over the rod to open it if need be. That is what I plan on doing on mine.

[_Ogre]

if safety cables are your main concern, don't let them steer the project direction
truk has shaved handles with stock latches
i used bicycle brake cable and sheathing for my safety cables
they wrap thru the doors, into door loom, around kick panel speakers and end up under the hood
my trunk, tonneau cover and gas door use the same cable and sheathing
all still work smoothly after 6 years and 25,000 miles

[chev3600]

The bear claws are a tight fit behind the window channel. Some people have had to grind it down just a little to fit. Probably not much difference fab wise to mount the latch on the cab side, maybe easier to run the wires for the solenoids and if you're running manual Windows then there's no wires needed in the jamb.
I also used a release cable routed through the door jamb and hinges etc. You can use a garage door emergency release and its lockable. http://www.allaboutdoors.com/images/...ts/22214-3.jpg

[Gippetto]

Thanks to all for their help. I am leaning towards mounting the post on the door making the safety cable easier plus the fact that it's not really any more fabrication.

[Daze57]

chev3600

where did you get that garage door realease?
very cool idea

[chev3600]

Bought it off amazon, but some of the Home Depot and hardware stores carry them. Just search "garage door emergency cable. I did use piece of a sheath like the bicycle cable. Mine is mounted inside the front fender area in between the kick panel and cowl, facing forward.

[Oldchevypickup]

I've done two in AD trucks with the latch in the door post. Simple top do and like everyone says safety release is simple. I have also done a '46 with latches in door. Clearance was tight but worked fine as well.

[Edwardfishman]

Bear claws are really tight fit behind the window channel. Some people have had to grind it down just a little to fit. Probably not much difference to mount the latch on the cab side.
May be you could use a release cable routed through the door jamb and hinges etc. You can use a garage door emergency release that is lockable.
https://www.dkhardware.com/

[Edwardfishman]

Bear claws are a tight fit behind the window channel. Some people have had to grind it down just a little to fit. Probably this does not make much of a difference fab wise to mount the latch on the cab side.
May be you can use a release cable routed through the door jamb and hinges etc. You can use a garage door emergency release, the best part is its lockable.
https://www.dkhardware.com/
__________________

[mr48chev]

On the ones having the latch in the door post it should be pretty easy to rig a manual release lever that sits on the door post next to the seat. Or run long enough cables to loop it down to the floor and up to the dash and just pull them like a hood release. You still need some manual way to open the doors from the outside though.

[dsraven]

you could run some bike cable to a fake lockable gas door with the release mechanism inside. the shorter the run and least amount of bends the better.
if you wanted to fab your own, check the bike stores for bulk cable kits. they are small guage and tough and come with one end already attached with cut your own length outer sheath in a roll. or cruise the wrecker looking for a long hood cable and handle. some places make cables to whatever length and can press on the fittings. try an aircraft supply place, they may know where to go if they don't do it themselves.you could use a simple bike brake handle as the lever.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by dsraven

the shorter the run and least amount of bends the better.

the length and number of bends really doesn't matter
truk has 5 shaved latches and 5 safety cables (2 doors, trunk, tonneou cover and gas door)
all done with bike brake cables

the cover is sold in bulk, for the longest cables you can use tandem brake cable
as long as the sheathing is captive on the ends, the cable can loop, bend and meander thru the body
both door cables run thru the doors, thru the door loom, over the kick speakers and terminate at the firewall
approx 7 ft each with many twists and turns
the gas door is longer but follows a more direct route with fewer bends