My headache for today

[HRD]

As stated in another thread, Trying to get it going I'm doing a complete brake overhaul on a 51 GMC with a 58/62 Chevy 235 motor installed.
Picture 1 is the new master installed.
Picture 2 is the brake petal rod mount from under the truck.
Picture 3 is the brake petal rod mount point looking down.
Picture 4 is the old rod mount collar taken off and the new rod to connect at that point.
My problem is the new rod collar hits that motor mount. The new rod is about a 1/2 inch to long but I can shorten that to give me some adjustment room as for as the length goes.
In picture 2 you can see the end of a 1/4 inch flat bar cut and placed under the mount. Why that's there I'm unsure. Yes, it's on both sides and drilled and mounted with the bolts that fasten the mount to the cross member. Even if I was able to lift the motor enough to get those out, I still don't think I'd have the clearance room I need for the rod collar.
I'm thinking if I took my angle grinder and cut out enough on the top of that mount that I can give myself the clearance I need for it to fit and not bind/catch anywhere.
That is hard rubber around the metal in that mount and I'm wandering if that might be to much heat being generated?
I'm looking for ideals and thoughts on what to do.

[sleepindawg]

I don't know if I can be of any help or not. Is that a stock bell housing mount? I have only delt with Chevy mounts. If you look at one of your pictures you can see what looks like a quarter inch plate under that mount. Would that give you the room you need if you took that out?

When I did a similar brake mount setup in my chevy I had a '54 style frame cross member and later style bell housing so the mounting was different and caused very minor interference between the clutch rod and cross member.

[HRD]

After reading you sleepindawg.
I went back down for further inspection of how they mounted the motor and transmission in.

The 1st picture shows the new motor mount plate that they used to mount the front of the 235 chevy motor since the 228 gmc motor would have been about 2 inches longer. It appears to be about 3/8 inches thick. I don't think it quit a 1/2 inch thick anyway.

Picture 2 does show what looks like 1/4 inch plate below the mount that appears to be a stock bell housing mount. (Thanks sleepindawg) 1 on both sides was used.

Picture 3 looks as best as I can tell to be nothing more then a couple of nuts slipped between the trans mount and the trans crossover brace.

All I can figure is the installer was trying to keep these mounting point about level or straight line.

NOW, should there be any reason why I shouldn't remove the flat bar under the bellhousing mounts and these nuts under the trans tail mount and bolt them back down to where they belong. I would think the front mount would flex somewhat if need be.

I also feel that doing this would give me the clearance for the new brake master connection rod at the bell housing mount.

[mr48chev]

That comes in under the heading of Dang if I do and dang if I don't.

I'm wondering if it would cause any issues if you massaged the corner of the motor mount enough to get the clearance you need.

Taking the flat bar out shouldn't throw things out of alignment that much though.

[HRD]

This was sure enough a headache. A big pain in the rear to go with it. I do most of my work at night. Single and it's cooler.
What I thought was a couple of nuts stuck in the transmission mount were not nuts at all. Two 11/16th's inch spcers between the upper of lower plates of the mount that are suppose to be there. A new mount and repair kit for a used mount.
Removed the bolts for the trans mount and the two in the bell housing mounts. Jacked the motor up and slid out the flat bar metal. Got the mount from under the transmission to redo/replace. Picture #1
Since I had the mount I'd just order the repair kit and wait. NOPE. Not my way. Cost more to ship me the two pieces of rubber then they cost.
Took the mount apart and cleaned all the parts. Picture #2
Measured the thickness of those spacers. 11/16th's That's how thick I had to get rubber to fill the mount. Thought about cutting an old tire and make it. Since what I cleaned out seemed to be all rubber and some sticky goo, decided to wait and go to the local parts store and see what they had I might could use. Found some 3M squeezes that if I made 4 layers with it would do the trick and squeeze down pretty tight. Stopped by the hardware and picked up a couple bolts and nuts to bolt it all back together.
Putting it all back together and got the wrong size bolts. Another wait and trip back to the hardware store.
Now got it together. Yep, I think that'll work. Picture #3
Remount the transmission mount back to the trans and start lowering back into place. Jacks out from under it. Now I got about 1/4 inch gap at the bellhousing mounts where I removed the flat bar. Picture #4
Now What????? @#^$#@ and more @$%&^#@
Jacked back up and removed the transmission mount. Lowered it back down with no mount on the trans an my bellhousing mounts set right where they should with no gaps. Brake pedal will now clear the mount also.
Redo the transmission mount. Took out those spacers and two of the rubber pads. Placed the third pad on the underside of the mounting plates and bolted it all back together. Picture #5
Once again, jack it back up and reinstall the transmission mount. Lower it back into place. Hoop and hollow and shout out loud. It all mates and matches. I THOUGHT Now I can't get one of the bellhousing bolts to line up with the cross member hole. A little more @#$%^&. Try pushing, pulling, prying and I can't get it to line up. A little more @#$%^&. Here goes the jack again, Up, Down and over and over, FINALLY, I GOT YOU.
WHEW, I know that trans mount ain't right but I think I can live with it. NO, I'm going to until it tells me I can't.
BY THE WAY. I now have a complete new brake system installed and bleed out as of last night. Tonight I'm gonna be doing minor tuning.