Sleeve between carb & air cleaner - and positive crank ventilation?

[turpentyne]

I need to double check a couple things. We've made the mistake of picking a terrible shop to rebuild an engine in our 1971 C-10 with a 350 engine.

Was there a spacer sleeve that went between the carburetor and the air cleaner. The anchor bolt seemed awfully high when we went to look at things.

Also, There were a few hoses coming off of things that didn't seem right. This truck only had positive crank case ventilation, correct? They had some vacuum line fitting in the left valve cover. We don't think it was supposed to be there.

We should've done this job ourselves, but we didn't have the means at the time.

Anybody know where I can get some engine bay diagrams? I need to go down to the shop armed with something more than my dad's memory, and a good specific shop manual would take days to get. I don't trust our Chilton's manual to be specific enough

[HO455]

Welcome aboard! Sorry to hear of your issues. This thread and the links (build treads too) in it should help you with most of your questions. Try the search box above for more stuff and quicker responses. And yes there should have been a spacer under the air cleaner with a hose hooked to it.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651808

[geezer#99]

And burn us off some pics of your engine bay.
Someone or everyone will tell you what you got.

[dmjlambert]

Welcome to the forum. Here is a thread with some information about the spacer and PCV
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=706115

[turpentyne]

Ah, thank you! Exactly what we needed. We went down to the shop and cleared things up.

Lucky for us, we still had that part sitting in the cab. We were able to pull it out and show them what they'd missed.

Unlucky for us, they put the carb on, then got a whole different center rod threaded in there - a much longer one possibly. It's got a big Edelbrock air cleaner on there. I'm betting we might need the original rod to go back on, for the original air cleaner. That Edelbrock was just something they did on their own. It looked like it might be a "1208" pro flo, or something like it. I never asked them to do it.

On a side note, how much difference will that air cleaner make in the mixture? Maybe lean things out and we'd be forced to compensate or look at jets? I'd really rather just have factory.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll see a bit of me around in a while. We're about to get into a little bit of a rolling restoration once they do this part right. I think I'm going to invest in a cherry picker so we don't have to rely on others.

[turpentyne]

oh, and yeah... Next time I check in on them, I'll get some pics to share. Didn't think of it at the time...

might not have mattered yet, anyway. They have to pull the engine and get another block. They tried to fool me into thinking they'd replaced the 2-bolt main we had with a 4-bolt, like I asked... but they just put the same engine back in.

[dmjlambert]

If they still have the original parts such as original carburetor, intake manifold, electrical switches that were on the carburetor such as solenoids or transmission kickdown, or anything else they took off while working on it, I recommend ask them for it and stash it for now. They most likely aren't going to do anything with it. There were things that went missing on my truck during repairs and it was a little bit troublesome to buy some of the stuff again. A lot of stuff you can buy new, but some of the items you have to buy used, and doing that here on the forum with a premium membership made it easier for me. I don't think the air cleaner will make a difference that matters, other than looks. If they have the original air cleaner and you get it back from them and don't end up using it, they go for $35 to $75 in used condition. I prefer the stock air cleaner, and stock PCV setup, too.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by turpentyne

oh, and yeah... Next time I check in on them, I'll get some pics to share. Didn't think of it at the time...

might not have mattered yet, anyway. They have to pull the engine and get another block. They tried to fool me into thinking they'd replaced the 2-bolt main we had with a 4-bolt, like I asked... but they just put the same engine back in.

2 bolt or 4 bolt!
4 bolt won’t make any difference for what you need.
In fact your 2 bolt likely will be a better seasoned block.
Now if you were cranking your motor to 8 grand then you’d need a 4 bolt. Maybe!
A lot of very high hp motors only had 2 bolt mains. The old style hemi’s And the mid 60’s 426 Hemi only had 2 bolt.

Don’t get hung up on the numbers gone!
You’ll spend a lot of wasted money if you do!

[turpentyne]

Hehe... yeah, I know the difference isn't huge. But I've got two factors that sort of require it. One, is this is a project with my dad, and he's always wanted to get a 4-bolt back in.

The second is... well.... they lied to me. Very bad for business. It leads one to wonder what else is wrong - and we've encountered several things.

[geezer#99]

Don’t worry, be happy!
At least he didn’t want want the infamous nascar only 5 bolt main!

[geezer#99]

So I’m curious!
How did you know they didn’t use a 4 bolt block you asked for?

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

So I’m curious!
How did you know they didn’t use a 4 bolt block you asked for?

im curious also

[turpentyne]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

So I’m curious!
How did you know they didn’t use a 4 bolt block you asked for?

They walked straight into the lie, when i asked what engine they put in. They answered the 4-bolt. Then they said , the engine that was in it. He sisnt know anything. Either the foreman lied or he decided to be honest when I suggested we drop the oil pan and see
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[kwmech]

Actually a seasoned original block is preferred. The early 350 castings have a higher nickle/tin content, making the blocks harder and less prone to cylinder wear/taper. 2 bolt 4 bolt doesn't really matter. I've seen early blocks line bored with ARP studs spun up to 7k without problems on a dirt track