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Old 06-17-2023, 12:37 PM   #1
cgster
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Seam sealer drip rail question

I've attempted several brands of seam sealer on the drip rail. After it sits up for well over several weeks, how hard is the sealer suppose to get? The ones I have used indent fairly easy if you put a fingernail into it, almost like a rubber texture.
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Old 06-17-2023, 10:57 PM   #2
Sheepdip
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Re: Seam sealer drip rail question

All of the seam sealer I've used stays pliable but is also paintable. Your local auto paint supply's store will steer you in the right direction If it were to harden the road vibrations would crack it out.
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Old 06-18-2023, 01:01 AM   #3
howzzzit
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Re: Seam sealer drip rail question

Few years ago a local supplier sold me some 3M sealer. Was an off white color. I could smooth it with my finger. Used it in the winter time indoors and it took a long time to harden. It was then sandable and paintable. Sorry I can't tell you the name as those brain cells have been deleted. Automotive shop can tell you what to use.
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Old 06-18-2023, 01:02 AM   #4
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Re: Seam sealer drip rail question

3M makes a few versions that require a special "caulk gun" style applicator, they are a 2 part epoxy that dries to a solid firm sand-able hardness. The reason for the 3 different styles is viscosity, on level and flat areas you use the type that flows really well and self levels whereas the other kinds are thicker so the material won't dribble down and leave the work area. This is what it looks like after it cures, in about 12 minutes. You've gotta work fast. It comes out of the tube sort of clear but turns opaque white. I overfilled the passenger side of my drip rail and had to sand it down to match the other side. 80 grit on a small block did the trick, then cleaned it up with 180.
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1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod.
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Old 06-18-2023, 01:04 AM   #5
cornerstone
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Re: Seam sealer drip rail question

Quote:
Originally Posted by howzzzit View Post
Few years ago a local supplier sold me some 3M sealer. Was an off white color. I could smooth it with my finger. Used it in the winter time indoors and it took a long time to harden. It was then sandable and paintable. Sorry I can't tell you the name as those brain cells have been deleted. Automotive shop can tell you what to use.
Wow... posted a minute apart.
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1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod.
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Old 06-18-2023, 01:14 AM   #6
howzzzit
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Re: Seam sealer drip rail question

Maybe this is what I used

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08500-All-...s%2C140&sr=8-2
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Old 06-18-2023, 10:11 AM   #7
Orefactory4x4 swb
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Re: Seam sealer drip rail question

Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerstone View Post
3M makes a few versions that require a special "caulk gun" style applicator, they are a 2 part epoxy that dries to a solid firm sand-able hardness. The reason for the 3 different styles is viscosity, on level and flat areas you use the type that flows really well and self levels whereas the other kinds are thicker so the material won't dribble down and leave the work area. This is what it looks like after it cures, in about 12 minutes. You've gotta work fast. It comes out of the tube sort of clear but turns opaque white. I overfilled the passenger side of my drip rail and had to sand it down to match the other side. 80 grit on a small block did the trick, then cleaned it up with 180.
im curious how many kits it took you to do the entire rail
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Old 06-18-2023, 11:45 PM   #8
cornerstone
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Re: Seam sealer drip rail question

It should have taken only one, but doofus here wasted a bit too much when getting it started. I ended up using two and it actually flowed over the edge on the passenger front corner. I made sure to raise the back end of the truck to make it level (otherwise it will run down the back edge of the door drip rail) but forgot to verify level from side to side and the passenger side was a smidge lower, hence the overflow. That stuff aint cheap either, hard to believe I've got over a hundred bucks laying in the drip rails.
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1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod.
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Old 06-19-2023, 02:00 AM   #9
jumpsoffrock
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Re: Seam sealer drip rail question

Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerstone View Post
It should have taken only one, but doofus here wasted a bit too much when getting it started. I ended up using two and it actually flowed over the edge on the passenger front corner. I made sure to raise the back end of the truck to make it level (otherwise it will run down the back edge of the door drip rail) but forgot to verify level from side to side and the passenger side was a smidge lower, hence the overflow. That stuff aint cheap either, hard to believe I've got over a hundred bucks laying in the drip rails.
I haven't finished my rails yet, but I got the special 3M calk gun on eBay for $65 bucks and thought I did well.

We will see.
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