How much weight dose it save

[GMC70c20]

I'm thinking about getting rid of my old c10 front end and getting a after market front end with tubular control arms and a rack and pinion setup. My question is who makes a good setup? and how much weight does it save?

[chevy72blu]

I know a board member runs the fatman setup (djracer, I think). He said its about 200 pounds lighter, but im sure its quite pricey (as are all tubular arms ive seen).

[djracer]

I do have the fatman setup and its pricey. I bought the truck with it on there so I can't say for sure but I have been told it was between 150-200lbs. You can buy mustang II stuff for much less than the fatman stuff but its weld on instead of bolt on. The class that my truck used to run it had to be bolt on.

[GMC70c20]

I found allot of kits for chevy trucks but not any for 67-72 trucks. Who makes them for our trucks?

[djracer]

http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=7

http://www.jimmeyerracing.com/ifs7.html

I think any of the bigger suppliers can taylor a weld in kit for our trucks!

[GMC70c20]

So I looked around and I liked that jmr setup but I don't really want to spend $3000 on a front axle I was planing on about $2000 or maybe $2400. I'm gonna make my truck into a 12 sec sleeper so the reason why I was thinking about a tubular setup as to save weight and have a better spring selection. What would you guys recommend for a axle? How much of a difference time wise would a tubular setup make?

[chevy72blu]

200lbs savings like a whole helluva lot, but ive never seen one in person, so... If its 150lbs, you can assume that 100lbs = .09 seconds in a 1/4. At least thats what i've been raised on. ~~.15s, which can really add up. If you are going to make it a true sleeper, I'd back half it with a tonneau. You'll loose a lot of weight taking out that bed floor (of course, as long as you dont care about it no longer being used as a truck).

Personally I think that front end is money that could be better spent on go fast parts - ie equipping your motor to take more n2o. Unless of course you are going for an all out build, or want the handling of that set up. Just MHO.

Keep us posted

[Super73]

Does your truck run and drive currently? Any chance you can get it on a scale to weigh the front end?

The weight will help in ET for sure, but as others said, the money spent in putting more power down I think will out weigh the benifits from the front end swap.

Simply putting a glass hood and bumper off will take almost 100 lbs out. That would be less than the front suspension then put a different spring in it for weight x-fer.

I recently put the below spring in my truck.
Moroso Sring 47140
240lb rate
17 3/8" long


With my last weigh in putting the front axle at 2,280 with me in the truck, these springs sit at a great height after settling a bit. There is a ton of weight x-fer, toping the upward suspension travel out with the right shock setting.

If you call Moroso, they'll give you all the info you need on their springs:
Free height
compressed height
Rate

If you can have your front end weighed, I can tell you pretty close to what spring will work.

[GMC70c20]

right now I have it tor apart It was a c20 that I am converting to a c10, I know tha whole truck weighed 4000lbs before with out me in it. I dont really care about cornering, the only other thing is I'm gonna have to buy new lower control arms, springs, brake assemblys, ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings, pitman and idlerarms and a sterring box. I looked around for 1/2 ton trucks to rob the front axle componets off of and living in the middle of Iowa thats alot eaiser said than done. I managed to find one to that was not completly rotted out and got the spindles, drag link, and idler arm bracket but that was it. So I figured if I could spen another $500-$1000 on the front end and have it be lighter and more tuneable it would be a good investment.

[Super73]

I think if you moved to a rack and pinion, you would shave some weight as well.

[57sailplane]

i built a mustang II front for mine out of heidts 60" universal crossmember. i have the polished rack and pinion and big chevy discs and tubular A-frames. i got all of it off ebay. it took a wile but i got a good deal on everything. i built the kit to bolt in. in case i did not like it. the only thing i have not got yet are the coil overs but there on the way. i built this set up from hub to hub less the coil overs for 1100 dollars... the coil overs are 500 bucks.

[GMC70c20]

I have a few questions for ya
1) Did you have to drill the holes in the corssmember to match the frame
2) did you hvae to modify the frame rails to make it fit
3) what did you use fore spindles
4) did you have to order coilovers from that company or is there other companys that make springs to fit that pocket

[djracer]

Originally Posted by 57sailplane

i built a mustang II front for mine out of heidts 60" universal crossmember. i have the polished rack and pinion and big chevy discs and tubular A-frames. i got all of it off ebay. it took a wile but i got a good deal on everything. i built the kit to bolt in. in case i did not like it. the only thing i have not got yet are the coil overs but there on the way. i built this set up from hub to hub less the coil overs for 1100 dollars... the coil overs are 500 bucks.

That is awesome! If you haven't actually ordered the coilovers I may be able to get you a deal. I'd love to see more pics of your mustang II set up. My little brother wants one for his 59.

[57sailplane]

are you kidding me i just ordered them. darn it. from summit. i went with the r series qa1 adjustables withe the coil that mounts to the hat in a mustang ii front end.. here are some pics of my install. the tubing was somewhat pitted but i am not worried its plunty thick and is a structual grade..

[57sailplane]

as to answer your questions gmc70c20.

1. as you can see the bottom photo i drilled some holes in both the frame and the Grey piece which i made out of 6" square tubing.. i probably have way more bolts then needed but I don't want any bind as to break welds.
2. no, other than i welded two triangular gusset on the inside of the frame to keep the frame from turning inward. heidts suggests boxing it in but i think these gussets will work just fine. i will show you some more pics as soon as i can fin my camera..
3. i got the 500 dollar kit that most places sell off ebay for 400 dollars. the kit includes 2 inch drop spindles with Chevy 11 inch disks and calipers.
i think it was fatrodder that i got them off of on ebay.
4. if you noticed i opted for the coil over lower A-frames and i just bought a set of qa1 race series coil over shocks and springs. you can get the lower a-frames off ebay with this set up or stock or even bagged.. although you rarely see the coil over version. i kept checking for over a year before i scored these, mind you i missed out on some deal before that.
heres what i spent
cross member kit 300 dollars
lower a frame 200 dollars
upper aframes 100 dollars
rack pinion 125 ??
spindles and disc's 400
it took me a long time to get these parts at these prices but i needed them and did not have the money otherwise. anyways i will see if i can get you more pics..

[57sailplane]

eek. i just went an took some pics. my wife had a garage sale this fall so i moved my truck outside and put it under plastic in case of rain. man no rain but look what condensation can do.. anyways here it is. this thing sets real low. i almost forgot the 60 inch heidts universal sub kit is built for a way wider frame. as a matter of fact they don't make one for our trucks. the center section is actually supposed to weld to the inside. i had to do some recalculating to get it to fit right.. basically i cut and re notched the top of the sub frame to fit on the bottom and outside the frame rails.. also if you notice the bottom lip on the inside of the frame rail has holes. well there will be bolts in those also when i put them in..

later...