Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 1965C10

[SierraMtns]

TR50,

Thanks for posting. Tagged for later.

[TR65]

68_chop_top,

Sounds like alignment. I wore one out in a week. I probably didn't mention that in the thread, embarrassing. If the push rod hits the housing over any part of the travel it drives the piston into the bore and ruins it.

TR

[no1udknow]

Subscribed. I am looking to do a manual conversion on my 68, I cant imagine it is too different.

[shiny]

Thanks for the great write up!
Dan468, what throw out bearing did you use?
I am puting a T56 in my 66 Merc truck, LT1 in front of it of course!

-Shiny

[1963c-10]

Pulled up for B.SHARP

Also....some more pics to complete the install I did.

This is the original 63 cast iron bellhousing mated to a 1966 borg warner t-16 HD 3 speed. Only modifications to the bellhousing was to massage the clutch fork access to accept the larger clutch fork that came with the novak kit and the work to mill out the mounting boss mentioned in the post above. You can use a spacer also, but depending on what bellhousing you use, yo may not need to do this.

Plenty of header clearance even with a big block and 2" primary tubes. Also pics of the clutch master and clearance

[1963c-10]

One more pic

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Pulled up for B.SHARP

Also....some more pics to complete the install I did.

This is the original 63 cast iron bellhousing mated to a 1966 borg warner t-16 HD 3 speed. Only modifications to the bellhousing was to massage the clutch fork access to accept the larger clutch fork that came with the novak kit and the work to mill out the mounting boss mentioned in the post above. You can use a spacer also, but depending on what bellhousing you use, yo may not need to do this.

Plenty of header clearance even with a big block and 2" primary tubes. Also pics of the clutch master and clearance

Which clutch mastercylinder did you use?

[1963c-10]

Its a Wilwood.....I'll have to get the part number tonight for you.

[Roney820@yahoo.com]

I'm new to this forum and i'm looking for help as I am trying to do this conversion myself. I have a novak 3/4" wilwood master cylinder and a 3/4" novak 3/4" external slave cylinder, doing this with a SM465 transmission, but now that its put together, the clutch peddle is solid to push, not easy at all. Are you guys using 1:1 ratio like this?

[Captainfab]

Welcome to the forum

What year of truck are you working on? How do you have the clutch pedal connected to the clutch master?

Originally Posted by Roney820@yahoo.com

I'm new to this forum and i'm looking for help as I am trying to do this conversion myself. I have a novak 3/4" wilwood master cylinder and a 3/4" novak 3/4" external slave cylinder, doing this with a SM465 transmission, but now that its put together, the clutch peddle is solid to push, not easy at all. Are you guys using 1:1 ratio like this?

[Roney820@yahoo.com]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Welcome to the forum

What year of truck are you working on? How do you have the clutch pedal connected to the clutch master?

I'm working on a '68 c10 2wd.I pretty much have it the way TR65 has his setup. Spacer from the clutch pedal, and a drilled and tapped rod connected to the master. It looks like it's a straight push as far as I can tell.
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[Captainfab]

The hydraulic clutch conversion that I make uses a linkage assembly between the pedal and the clutch master so that you can have full travel of the clutch pedal.

[Roney820@yahoo.com]

You sell them? if so, how much? Would full travel help with the stiff clutch??

[Captainfab]

Yes, I make complete hydraulic clutch conversions for the '60-'62, '63-'66 and '67-'72 trucks.

Here is the for sale thread for the '67-'72 conversion kit.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=652871

The pics that 1963c-10 posted are of one of my kits for the '63-'66's with the manual brake option.

Your stiff clutch pedal may be an issue of malfunctioning master or slave, or an interference somewhere.

Originally Posted by Roney820@yahoo.com

You sell them? if so, how much? Would full travel help with the stiff clutch??

[1963c-10]

Yup, I have one of Captainfab's kits. Great parts and service, easy to install and he is very knowledgeable on these parts. Would highly recommend them.

[eric8]

Hey TR65, just ran across your post and I'm ironing out the details for my LS3/T56 swap myself. Curious if you ever tried the 5/8" master cylinder? Also, did you use the 6:1 pedal ratio formula to determine where to mount the actuating rod to the pedal? My 72 C10 measures 15" from the clutch pedal pivot to the bottom of the pedal pad, so in theory (for what that's worth), optimum pedal feel with a 3/4" master cylinder would be achieved with the bar stock bolted about 2.5" down from the center of the clutch pedal pivot. The farther down it is mounted, the higher the pedal effort.

By the way, I am just down the road from you in Clemson.

[roOstersan]

Solid write up again TR. many thanx!

[vortech71chevy]

Hey guys, a few questions...

I was able to mimic the clutch pedal linkage which was awesome, but since I am using a lt1 t56 with a 1 pc rear main seal, I'm going with full lt1 factory hydraulics, clutch, flywheel, everything...

I used a stock slave from a 91 z28, which is the same as a 97 lt1 that my trans came from but with an additional bleed screw in the slave. I bled and bled this thing, but the clutch doesn't disengage enough for me to put the truck into gear...

The clutch is actuating, just not far enough. Does this master just not move enough fluid? Not enough stroke? Any ideas on what I might be doing wrong? Thanks in advance guys.

[Captainfab]

What are you using for a master cylinder? Bore size?

Originally Posted by vortech71chevy

Hey guys, a few questions...

I was able to mimic the clutch pedal linkage which was awesome, but since I am using a lt1 t56 with a 1 pc rear main seal, I'm going with full lt1 factory hydraulics, clutch, flywheel, everything...

I used a stock slave from a 91 z28, which is the same as a 97 lt1 that my trans came from but with an additional bleed screw in the slave. I bled and bled this thing, but the clutch doesn't disengage enough for me to put the truck into gear...

The clutch is actuating, just not far enough. Does this master just not move enough fluid? Not enough stroke? Any ideas on what I might be doing wrong? Thanks in advance guys.

[vortech71chevy]

I'm using the exact same one used in this thread. It's a nice piece. The only differences are the rest of the hydraulics due to the difference in clutch setup... I'm pretty bummed since it turned out so pretty and trick with my nice braided lines and cool fittings lol

[Captainfab]

You still didn't say what the bore size is but it sounds as though it is too small for your slave cylinder.

[vortech71chevy]

Sorry, I meant to say that I used the same one that TR65 used, same bore, same part number.

[Captainfab]

With how you have the clutch master connected to your pedal, are you getting full stroke of the master?

The hydraulic clutch conversions that I make and sell use a different linkage assembly.

[vortech71chevy]

I measured the stroke to be just about an inch and am eighth. The master uses a stroke of 1.2 so without bottoming it out it gets pretty close to max.

[Gimme Jimmy]

Has anyone installed a NV 4500 with the annular (direct) slave cylinder? If so, I would like to know what their Master cylinder and linkage (pedal) and in particular the volume of fluid moved (size of master and pedal ratio)